found this
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Daihatsu-Feroza- ... dZViewItem
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
ebay body lift kit
Moderator: Tiny
buy 10 screws and 10 nuts (140mm long /10mm diameter), 1m long plastic tube (filed), cut tube to 5cm pieces, drill 10mm holes in each pieces and this is it.
here is how to instal that body kit
http://www.geocities.com/davefogwill/Fe ... ylift.html
I did it in 2 hours (from bilding kit to install it on my feroza).
140AUS is aprox 83 EUR. Screws and nuts was 4EUR, plastic was 10EUR (together 14EUR, that is 23AUS).
here is how to instal that body kit
http://www.geocities.com/davefogwill/Fe ... ylift.html
I did it in 2 hours (from bilding kit to install it on my feroza).
140AUS is aprox 83 EUR. Screws and nuts was 4EUR, plastic was 10EUR (together 14EUR, that is 23AUS).
I do not need sex, the government fucks me every day!
I agree on using high tensile bolts - nylock nuts and washers ( all plated for corrosion protection ). In fact I thought it would be a "given".....
As for the inserts - if the plastic bar is the same diameter as the rubber mounts then IMO its more than strong enough without inserts. If your concerned, then substitute aluminum bar for plastic, probably about the same price or a little dearer.
Mines had a couple of years of hard work and no issues whatsoever, and I could have made them as complex as I wanted but there's just no point - the load / mount just doesn't warrant it.
My local plastics and aluminum suppliers are more than happy to cut to length ( with their saws it a few minutes work for the whole lot ) especially if you don't expect it done on the spot.
A jack, a few bits of wood to spread the load when you jack up the body, and the right size spanners are about all thats required.
Just remember to deal with radiator shrouds, hoses etc that require minor adjustment, but there's a thread on this elsewhere.
As for the inserts - if the plastic bar is the same diameter as the rubber mounts then IMO its more than strong enough without inserts. If your concerned, then substitute aluminum bar for plastic, probably about the same price or a little dearer.
Mines had a couple of years of hard work and no issues whatsoever, and I could have made them as complex as I wanted but there's just no point - the load / mount just doesn't warrant it.
My local plastics and aluminum suppliers are more than happy to cut to length ( with their saws it a few minutes work for the whole lot ) especially if you don't expect it done on the spot.
A jack, a few bits of wood to spread the load when you jack up the body, and the right size spanners are about all thats required.
Just remember to deal with radiator shrouds, hoses etc that require minor adjustment, but there's a thread on this elsewhere.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I was told by my engineer that in NSW they would not pass any poly lift blocks even if they had crush tubes.
I had to change all mine to alloy b4 he would sign off on all the stuff i had done.
But it does feel different now a lot stiffer.And it creeps and groans when you flex it up. I prefer the poly and have been thinking about swapin back
I had to change all mine to alloy b4 he would sign off on all the stuff i had done.
But it does feel different now a lot stiffer.And it creeps and groans when you flex it up. I prefer the poly and have been thinking about swapin back
[color=#FF4000][/color]89 rocky V6 2"efs adj/sway&panhard
X2 on the coated bolts.My original bolts were all rusted 3 of them broke as soon as i put a spanner on them and the rest wernt much better.
On the ENG/CERT doesnt say what material is used.
Anyway im of to bunnings for a can of aluminun spray
On the ENG/CERT doesnt say what material is used.
Anyway im of to bunnings for a can of aluminun spray
[color=#FF4000][/color]89 rocky V6 2"efs adj/sway&panhard
I use high tensile bolts plated with zinc.HotFourOk wrote:Hi-Tensile bolts would be heaps more than the $23 you quote for the whole project. What bolts/nuts did you use?
I also think the bushes inside the lift blocks are a nice idea.
Here in Slovenia the price for 100 standard bolts is 15EUR, that is 25AUS, but the price fo 10 high tensile bolts plated with zinc and 10 nuts was 4 EUR.
the big service for feroza here in slovenia is realy cheap
- 5 litres of oil 10W-40
- sparks
- filters (air, gas, oil)
- tensioner
- timing belt
- waterpump
- sensor for temperature
only 148EUR(240AUS)
I do not need sex, the government fucks me every day!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest