G'day,
after potting around in my zook for a about a year and a half i have decided i want something a bit bigger and more comfortable.
As the subject says I am thinking about an XJ Cherokee.
I have a few questions i would like to ask. I have searched but found nothing.
Post up some links if you find some.
1. I was thinking of getting the 2.5td, how are these for fuel, power and reliability?
2. Did the 2.5td come in an auto variant at all?
3. How easily is the XJ modified?
4. Is the XJ suitable for light to medium short distance 4x4 trips?
5. How is 2.5td for towing?
6. How reliable are the mechanicals?
7. Is there anything else i should know?
I plan on doing some towing of the zook as it will become a weekend play rig.
Cheers,
Sean
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Jeep Cherokee XJ
Moderator: GUtripper
Jeep Cherokee XJ
[quote="v840"]fat chicks actually [i]do[/i] give better head cause they're always hungry![/quote]
1. The 2.5td are economically and powerful enough, reliability is not what they are know for though. Head problems and the cost to fix it is the usual killer if/when they die.
2. Only a manual, Petrol is only an auto
3. Easily modified from mild to wild. Heaps of parts available as it was manufactured in the millions in the US and parts availability has filtered through to Aus with several reliable and well priced suppliers.
4. Yes, and more.
5. Dont know, I have a petrol
6. No less reliable than any other brand if its a petrol. Rear diff is a week point but depends on tyre sizes and use. I've had mine for 5 years and broke one axle, I have a decent sized lift and 32" tyres and dont baby it.
7. Get the Petrol.
Cheers
Steve
2. Only a manual, Petrol is only an auto
3. Easily modified from mild to wild. Heaps of parts available as it was manufactured in the millions in the US and parts availability has filtered through to Aus with several reliable and well priced suppliers.
4. Yes, and more.
5. Dont know, I have a petrol
6. No less reliable than any other brand if its a petrol. Rear diff is a week point but depends on tyre sizes and use. I've had mine for 5 years and broke one axle, I have a decent sized lift and 32" tyres and dont baby it.
7. Get the Petrol.
Cheers
Steve
What kind of fuel usage, power and reliability do you get out of a petrol?Wooders wrote:Summarised it for youSteve F wrote:blah blah blah ....
7. Get the Petrol.
Blah blah blah
Also how is the petrol for towing?
*EDIT* also, have XJ's got Independent Rear Suspension or not?
Some places say they do, others say they don't.
Cheers,
Sean
[quote="v840"]fat chicks actually [i]do[/i] give better head cause they're always hungry![/quote]
Live axel front and rear.Sean wrote: What kind of fuel usage, power and reliability do you get out of a petrol?
Also how is the petrol for towing?
*EDIT* also, have XJ's got Independent Rear Suspension or not?
Some places say they do, others say they don't.
Cheers,
Sean
Petrol has far better power and reliability than the diesel, great for towing.
Mine uses 14-15L/100 in everyday driving
Around the shyty I average 16-17Lph in our petrol....but I never drive it for ecconomy eitherSean wrote:What kind of fuel usage, power and reliability do you get out of a petrol?Wooders wrote:Summarised it for youSteve F wrote:blah blah blah ....
7. Get the Petrol.
Blah blah blah
Also how is the petrol for towing?
*EDIT* also, have XJ's got Independent Rear Suspension or not?
Some places say they do, others say they don't.
Cheers,
Sean
Rated to tow 2268 according to our towbar. Have towed >3T without too much drama - but knew it was there.
As for the suspension all cheros have solid rear, but the currently model KJ has IFS. All XJ's have solid F&R.
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
Banned
I looked into getting the 2.5TD XJ aswell, and I think if I was going to the UK I still would.
It seems like after MY2000 they were ok. (I would get a MY2001)
425 OHV
2.5 L (2499 cc) I4, with two (pushrod-actuated) valves-per-cylinder and indirect fuel injection.
Applications:
1990–1999 Rover 800 (power: 118 bhp, latterly 120 bhp; torque: 197 ft•lbf)
1992–2000 Plymouth Voyager (power: 114 hp (85 kW); torque: 193 ft•lbf (262 N m))
1994–2001 Jeep Cherokee (power: 118 hp (88 kW) @ 4000 rpm; torque: 221 ft•lbf (300 N m) @ 2000 rpm)
1995–1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (power: 114 hp (85 kW); torque: 221 ft•lbf (300 N m))
1996–2000 GAZ GAZelle (power: 101 hp (75 kW); torque: 171 ft•lbf (232 N m))
1997–2000 UAZ 3160 (power: 101 hp (75 kW); torque: 171 ft•lbf (232 N m))
1999–2000 Dodge Dakota (power: 114 hp (85 kW); torque: 221 ft•lbf (300 N m))
This engine was also used in some early Toyota Landcruisers & hilux, and Opel Fronteras. It received bad press during the late 1990s for problems with the timing chain, which often broke with catastrophic consequences. This was improved from 1998 with a double chain design. Also had problems with corrosion in the 4 individual cylinder heads, which was not solved until model change in 2000. Temperature problems were also observed, taking into account that this motor was designed to be a marine motor, so the Cherokee TD suffers from overheating and some individual cylinder head can break.
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_VM ... es#425_OHV
So as you can see from this information the main problems were fixed in 2000.
Oh, it is my belief that we only get 1997-1999 TD XJ Cherokees in Australia? Someone correct me please.
Hope this helps, Luke.
It seems like after MY2000 they were ok. (I would get a MY2001)
425 OHV
2.5 L (2499 cc) I4, with two (pushrod-actuated) valves-per-cylinder and indirect fuel injection.
Applications:
1990–1999 Rover 800 (power: 118 bhp, latterly 120 bhp; torque: 197 ft•lbf)
1992–2000 Plymouth Voyager (power: 114 hp (85 kW); torque: 193 ft•lbf (262 N m))
1994–2001 Jeep Cherokee (power: 118 hp (88 kW) @ 4000 rpm; torque: 221 ft•lbf (300 N m) @ 2000 rpm)
1995–1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (power: 114 hp (85 kW); torque: 221 ft•lbf (300 N m))
1996–2000 GAZ GAZelle (power: 101 hp (75 kW); torque: 171 ft•lbf (232 N m))
1997–2000 UAZ 3160 (power: 101 hp (75 kW); torque: 171 ft•lbf (232 N m))
1999–2000 Dodge Dakota (power: 114 hp (85 kW); torque: 221 ft•lbf (300 N m))
This engine was also used in some early Toyota Landcruisers & hilux, and Opel Fronteras. It received bad press during the late 1990s for problems with the timing chain, which often broke with catastrophic consequences. This was improved from 1998 with a double chain design. Also had problems with corrosion in the 4 individual cylinder heads, which was not solved until model change in 2000. Temperature problems were also observed, taking into account that this motor was designed to be a marine motor, so the Cherokee TD suffers from overheating and some individual cylinder head can break.
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_VM ... es#425_OHV
So as you can see from this information the main problems were fixed in 2000.
Oh, it is my belief that we only get 1997-1999 TD XJ Cherokees in Australia? Someone correct me please.
Hope this helps, Luke.
Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ
1. I bought a 4.0 instead of a 2.5 after reading about reliability and parts issues
2. Not sure, all 4.0s are auto.
3. Fairly well compared to other models. Up to 3" is cheap enough, starts to jump in price after that.
4. Perfect
5. Unsure about diesels, my petrol was great besides a bit of rear sag due to old springs.
6. Fair. You get used to oil stains on your driveway. Rocker cover gasket, exhaust manifold, transmission hoses have all needed repairing on mine in the last year.
7. Costs of spares will be about 3x what they are on your Zook.
2. Not sure, all 4.0s are auto.
3. Fairly well compared to other models. Up to 3" is cheap enough, starts to jump in price after that.
4. Perfect
5. Unsure about diesels, my petrol was great besides a bit of rear sag due to old springs.
6. Fair. You get used to oil stains on your driveway. Rocker cover gasket, exhaust manifold, transmission hoses have all needed repairing on mine in the last year.
7. Costs of spares will be about 3x what they are on your Zook.
my old mans xj TD averages about 14 - 16 L / 100
good power
flexes REALLY good with a 3 inch kit (you might it flexes abit too good) due to being a mono
good air con
bad points
small boot
rear axels are weak ... when it breaks it starts coming out to (his in the process of converting it to a full floater)
air flow sensors his done 4 of them cost heaps
its abitsa... parts from all over the world
good power
flexes REALLY good with a 3 inch kit (you might it flexes abit too good) due to being a mono
good air con
bad points
small boot
rear axels are weak ... when it breaks it starts coming out to (his in the process of converting it to a full floater)
air flow sensors his done 4 of them cost heaps
its abitsa... parts from all over the world
[color=green]Vote Earth[/color]
dad says" close to being right young ofr "
round town averaging around 12 ltr/100 highway around the high 9's towing the camper on the highway 13's in the scrub with the camper 15-16 .Rear right axle is a weak point .Rear locker seams to have resolved the problem Parts are a costly area but go searching . airflow sensor from jeep around 1800 but same sensor from another manufacturer 325 with the same specs . Overheating is a common Fault I am currently going through sorting mine out
Air low seams to be the issue ie getting rid of the hot air Currently the back of the bonnet is lifted 10mm and this seams to have significantly reduced the heating issues Bonnet vents are currently being investigated . But its getting cold down here in canberra Bit hard to induce the heating problem .Seams only an issue when outside temps get into the high 30's
round town averaging around 12 ltr/100 highway around the high 9's towing the camper on the highway 13's in the scrub with the camper 15-16 .Rear right axle is a weak point .Rear locker seams to have resolved the problem Parts are a costly area but go searching . airflow sensor from jeep around 1800 but same sensor from another manufacturer 325 with the same specs . Overheating is a common Fault I am currently going through sorting mine out
Air low seams to be the issue ie getting rid of the hot air Currently the back of the bonnet is lifted 10mm and this seams to have significantly reduced the heating issues Bonnet vents are currently being investigated . But its getting cold down here in canberra Bit hard to induce the heating problem .Seams only an issue when outside temps get into the high 30's
[color=green]Vote Earth[/color]
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