Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
It's not the hook that's the problem, its how they're mounted. Sierra's are hard to mount hooks to due to the position of chassis crossmembers and the fully boxed nature of the chassis - to go through the chassis you need to fit crush sleeves, so it involves chassis welding.
In the 14 years I've been in the club, I don't think I've seen a stock 1.3l front point break, but I have seen a VERY hard worked 1.0 point go.
At the rear, you can use a tow bar ar a piece of very heavy plate with three holes drilled in it - there are two holes behind the spring hanger on WT's which is where the tow bars mount. these will take 12mm bolts. Drill another hole to take a shackle.
PS if your breaking stock front points you need to do more digging etc before you start to snatch recover - that's a lot of force.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I'm not yet had to snatch but you hear everyone say to not use the factory tie downs, thats why i was thinking of getting a proper hook for the front and rear. The front tie down doesn't look especially strong though?
Just a thought for the rear, I've got a heyman recce tow bar, if i took the ball out and put the shackle pin through the hole, is that bad?
No, nothing wrong with a shackle through the towball hole, it's not great for departure angle though.
Anyone who says you can't recover off the front "tiedown" doesn't know anything about suzukis.
You can break anything though if you try, like I said, some caution is required, but we do lots of recovery off that stock point.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
It is possible to generate enough force with a snatch recovery to destroy almost anything, including (apparently) bend chassis.
Suzuki's are light and easily recovered. I NEVER go straight for a snatch recovery- I build up so I only use just enough force to move the car.
I believe this is part of the reason we don't have problems with recovery point failures.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
StarkRavingSimmo wrote:
As i said, i've heard it said heaps that you should never use the factory tie down. Thats all.
yeah thats the general rule i agree, and normaly i would back this comment up 100%. but on something as light as a zook i think it wouldnt matter. as long as your not trying to snatch a troopy out of a 8ft deep bog at 40kph, you should be fine
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
CWBYUP wrote:Personally not a fan of putting snatch eye through towbar pin, seen to many of the bend bad.
For the $44- bucks but s billet hitch revier ( ithink thats what there called )
Spreads the load better.
But 99% of sierras don't have a receiver, only a tongue. remove the ball and a 3.25 tonne shackle goes through the hole in the tongue prefectly.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
