Front Diff Whine/Vibration

[BlueSuzy]

Now my front diff, the pinion is wobbling in its socket, the bearings have gone bye bye If i rebuild the diff with the original pinion and crownwheel, would that be fine? I know the rear would be no good if it was the same because of misalignment wear, but im not in 4wd all day!
And the front right nuckle is dripping diff oil But should be simple fix.

I dont know what to do and i have heard mixed things to do bout it

My options are:

*Rebuild the centre and knuckle standard
*Rebuild etc with birfields?
*Rebuild etc with trail tough axles/longfields and rear centre in front?

I also want to put 33"s and Lockers on with NO Hassle later (Breakin stuff on rocks). pls help thanks

[Gwagensteve]

A) get your diff assessed by a professional. When the pinion starts to wobble it generally wears the gears very quickly. When you try to set them up again, you will only get a contact patch on the very edge of the teeth causing failure when loaded up- i.e the diff won't be as strong. You might get away with it, but chances are you won't. A decent diff shop will set it up and see if the pattern is acceptable.

B) you already have birfields. did you mean birfield rings? If so, theyre a waste of time and money IMHO.

C) If you want 33's and lockers go Doubletough/CVunlimited/spidertrax axleshafts/CV's.

Steve.

[BlueSuzy]

yeah meant birfield rings. ok thought they were waste of time...
Might be better just to go get a 2nd hand rear centre and go from there with axles.... the only problem is i dont know if i want to spend tat kind of money on suzuki diffs, I thinking of goin bundy diffs later..Argh.so many choices

[Gwagensteve]

yep, this is a common problem. If you want bundy diffs, don't spend any money on the suzuki stuff, it will be a waste. however, upgraded front axles, solid spacers in the pinions and some other tricks can help sierra diffs live under hard use. 33's should be fine. Obviously though, anything can be broken if you try.

Steve.

[GRPABT1]

yep, this is a common problem. If you want bundy diffs, don't spend any money on the suzuki stuff, it will be a waste. however, upgraded front axles, solid spacers in the pinions and some other tricks can help sierra diffs live under hard use. 33's should be fine. Obviously though, anything can be broken if you try.

Steve.

Sorry to hijack but why would you pick those axle combos steve and why not the birfield rings?

[Gwagensteve]

Birfield rings only add strength to the bell and not the cage or the axle. Sierra inner axles neck down at the CV. Rings do add some strength, but only when under steering lock AFAIK

Also, rings don't improve strength at the diff where a front is only 22 spline not 26 like the rear. Beef the ring and I bet the inner axle goes next.

Rings are also a one shot deal - break a CV with a ring and you throw the rung and the CV away.

Just my 2C.

I've just put my doubletoughs in today - at last- I've had them for nearly 12 months


Steve.

[11_evl]

yeah meant birfield rings. ok thought they were waste of time...
Might be better just to go get a 2nd hand rear centre and go from there with axles.... the only problem is i dont know if i want to spend tat kind of money on suzuki diffs, I thinking of goin bundy diffs later..Argh.so many choices

i wouldnt be getting another second rear center, unless you are going doube tough, because wont the rears have more wear... just get another front if your staying suzuki diffs.
the front diff i put in the rear of mine was nearly brand new. was soooo quiet.

[Gwagensteve]

That's a fair point, however, lots of fronts are rusty from never being in 4WD and having the oil slopping around.

Bluesuzy would need a rear carrier though if he was planning to run doubletoughs with an open front or a lock right, so if he has to get another carrier he might as well get a whole rear diff, no?

Steve.

[BlueSuzy]

Yes i have another carrier for the rear, as i have put a second handy centre in the rear bout 6months ago, cos that had the same problem. The new 1 has lasted quite good, with it welded, and i give it hell... I had to re-lap to the original wear mark as well so it lined up ok. I have played with diff centres b4.

[GRPABT1]

My zook is a NOV 88 model, and considering I'm getting twin sticks (thanks locktup) should I go a lockright front and beefed axles (calmini ones seam cheap are they any good?) Also I heard something about 4 pinion carrier or something does my model need this or already have it? Or should I just go air locker and stock/some other strong 22 spline axle (if they exist) ?

[GRPABT1]

Bump bumpity bump bump (sorry)

[Gwagensteve]

GRPABT1,

Your car *might* have a 4 pin front diff, some early WT's did.

nothing looks wrong with the calmini stuff except it will keep the stock CV's, which calmini then reckon need rings. The problem I see here is that the CV will become the weak link and when it goes A) you'll have to throw the rings away and B) the cage of the CV might chew up the calmini splines so the whole lot will go in the bin.

Spidertrax are doing doubletough equivalents apparently and these are very compeitive- inners are 4340

There's no strong 22 spline axles I am aware of.

Steve.

[GRPABT1]

So if I go air locker I am destined to blow axles anyway, great

So the reason why the calmini axles are cheap is cause they don't include the tougher cv's eh.

Thanks Steve I don't mind paying for quality gear so doubletoughs (or the like) it is a guess and a front lcokright