Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Changing from Torsion IFS to Coil IFS?
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Changing from Torsion IFS to Coil IFS?
Hey fellas, just been thinking bout this, is it do-able, or done regulary?
Really wouldnt have a clue, just asking
Really wouldnt have a clue, just asking
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
You can fit coil-overs instead of torsion bars, but the cost Vs advanages would probabyl suck. Would depend on what you want to do with the rig. Anything is possible, just depends on how much $$ and time you want to invest.
Layto....
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
There are kits from the US to do this but they usually add to the track about 3" per side. I'm trying to nut out how to do it without the track width, possibly using Prado front end.
Not a very common coversion so hard to find info on.
The coil IFS rides and works a lot better offroad.
catcha
Leeham
Not a very common coversion so hard to find info on.
The coil IFS rides and works a lot better offroad.
catcha
Leeham
Bloody IFS bugger who slows down the SAS boys.
www.vickrawlers.com
www.vickrawlers.com
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
The IFS front ends on trophy trucks, or pretty much any high speed rig, are a far cry from the typcial factory IFS. There are some nice kits over in teh states though which increase the strength and travel of a factory IFS, but as said previously you will gain at least 3 inches each side in width. What rig are you considering this for?
Edit
- Example of Kits stateside - http://www.chaosfab.com/
Layto....
Edit
- Example of Kits stateside - http://www.chaosfab.com/
Layto....
Last edited by lay80n on Thu Nov 29, 2007 10:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Road Ranger
I fail to see any advantage of changing to coil on a torsion bar design. The main limitation in the set up is not the torsion bar but the wishbone set up, I dont think it would be worth the cost and effort unless you were fundamentally changing the front end design and using it on a race truck
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
i just thought it might mean a more supported/comfy ride, and have a bit more flex then wat it currently has, i know its mainly used for desert racing which id love to do, but living in sydney, its a bit of a trek out to anywhere decent haha..
cheers for that link anyways dude! definitely interesting..
cheers for that link anyways dude! definitely interesting..
I've thought of this myself, that US website has some of the ideas I had come up with for something like this.
I think the major problem isn't doing it but being able to do it yourself or finding someone who will do it the way you want or work it out to get what your after.
The extra width is only done to allow for the width of the shock and coil, so if you could work out a good upper mounting point that's strong enough then you might be able to work out something to allow it to happen.
Basicly all it really is, is make up two stronger A-arms, then fit the bottom of a shock to the lower A-arm then make up a mounting point for the top of the shock.
The top A-arm won't be taking heaps of presure but the bottom will for sure as well as the upper mounting point.
Look at the ones in those kits, bit of bent pipe with a bit of pipe at the ends large enough for a bolt and a bushing to fit in then bolted up to the orginal bolting points anyway, then some kits use 2 types of upper shock mounts
1)a shock hoop for the upper shock mount.
2) a bolt in shock mount welded to the chasis.
pretty simple stuff really at the end of the day.
I've got to get me a welder for the home, lol.
I think the major problem isn't doing it but being able to do it yourself or finding someone who will do it the way you want or work it out to get what your after.
The extra width is only done to allow for the width of the shock and coil, so if you could work out a good upper mounting point that's strong enough then you might be able to work out something to allow it to happen.
Basicly all it really is, is make up two stronger A-arms, then fit the bottom of a shock to the lower A-arm then make up a mounting point for the top of the shock.
The top A-arm won't be taking heaps of presure but the bottom will for sure as well as the upper mounting point.
Look at the ones in those kits, bit of bent pipe with a bit of pipe at the ends large enough for a bolt and a bushing to fit in then bolted up to the orginal bolting points anyway, then some kits use 2 types of upper shock mounts
1)a shock hoop for the upper shock mount.
2) a bolt in shock mount welded to the chasis.
pretty simple stuff really at the end of the day.
I've got to get me a welder for the home, lol.
been lookin into this more lately, just really getting over the current factory suspension on the navara. And after looking around at prices for torsion lifts and stuff, it seems almost pointless just going down that road, specially when shops just keep telling me i can wind up the bars and just start braking stuff left right and centre..
Waiting to hear back on prices from chaos fab, watching the vids on their site and other various pre - runner sites have got me hooked lol
Waiting to hear back on prices from chaos fab, watching the vids on their site and other various pre - runner sites have got me hooked lol
One minor engineering point would be to make sure the chassis ahead of the engine mounts is up to the task of taking the added suspension loads of the spring/strut.
As it stands with most of the torsion bar setups, most of the load is taken through the center of the chassis (under your bum) which is usually a fair bit stronger.
You may need a bit of gusseting and an extra or strengthened crossmember in the front.
As it stands with most of the torsion bar setups, most of the load is taken through the center of the chassis (under your bum) which is usually a fair bit stronger.
You may need a bit of gusseting and an extra or strengthened crossmember in the front.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
Zagan, I think you're massively understating how complex this is. Understanding all the geometry associated with an IFS front end is not "pretty simple stuff" and the consequences of a failure could be catastrophic.
"All it really is" is two lower A arms, two upper A arms, bushes, balljoints, 2 axles, maybe CV's depending on operating angles, two steering rods, 2X shockmounts, brake lines, coils/coilovers, etc etc etc
Had it occurred that the stock bushes may be WAY too soft now due to the added leverage? how about bump steer with the added width/travel? all the added load on the chassis (as pointed out by Damkia?)
We have a club member who extended the track width of their torsion bar car and it rides and travels very very well. It was a huge job though with lots of custom work. There's nothing wrong with torsion bars at all once the width and operating angles are right.
and correct, the extra width has NOTHING to do with the coil mounting, and everything to do with added travel, stability and reduced CV angles.
Steve.
"All it really is" is two lower A arms, two upper A arms, bushes, balljoints, 2 axles, maybe CV's depending on operating angles, two steering rods, 2X shockmounts, brake lines, coils/coilovers, etc etc etc
Had it occurred that the stock bushes may be WAY too soft now due to the added leverage? how about bump steer with the added width/travel? all the added load on the chassis (as pointed out by Damkia?)
We have a club member who extended the track width of their torsion bar car and it rides and travels very very well. It was a huge job though with lots of custom work. There's nothing wrong with torsion bars at all once the width and operating angles are right.
and correct, the extra width has NOTHING to do with the coil mounting, and everything to do with added travel, stability and reduced CV angles.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
finally received an email from chaos fab, goddamn its sure not cheap! But nothing good ever is lol
Something to think about nonethelessThank you for your inquiry with TOTAL CHAOS Fabrication Inc. The Nissan 4wd Frontier & X Terra long travel kit with 300M custom extended axles is $3112. TC offers a pre bent weld on upper shock hoop that is designed to install 8" travel 2.5 coil over shocks by Fox (pt# 980-99-246-A), King or Sway A Way will run $218. This kit increases the vehicles track width by 3” per side. Some torching, grinding and welding is required to perform the suspension system installation. Shock prices will vary by brand $1200-$1300pr with coil springs. Fiberglass fenders are required. The vehicles overall track width will increase by 6". We suggest installing a 16" or 18" 550 or 600lb coil spring depending on what brand shock you install and your application. Heim steering is optional and can be added to the kit for $492. TC offers the Nissan King Kong steering system as an additional upgrade, featuring a custom chromoly centerlink, custom idler arm and gusseted pitman arm. Heim steering is required to install this steering system. A $65 pitman arm core charge is applied and is refunded within 30 days of the original purchase upon return receipt of an undamaged unit.
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
Heim joints are also known as Rod ends or Rose joints.
They are effectively impossible to be certified as road legal.
Steve.
They are effectively impossible to be certified as road legal.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 145 guests