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Should i fit new big ends?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Should i fit new big ends?
Just got my new truck it's a 100 series HZJ105, 1HZ with a DTS turbo.
Would like to know if you guys would recommend that i change the big ends? Or wait til its done 200,000 kms?
It has done 113,000 kms and had the turbo fitted from new.
We are headed off around australia soon so want to get everything ready before we go.
Cheers
Matt
Would like to know if you guys would recommend that i change the big ends? Or wait til its done 200,000 kms?
It has done 113,000 kms and had the turbo fitted from new.
We are headed off around australia soon so want to get everything ready before we go.
Cheers
Matt
If it ain't broke don't fix.....
One of my 1HZ's has done 450,000 kms without a spanner touching it, and it is common for them to do 600,000+ before anything needs doing.....
All mine have DTS Turbo's as well........
Change the oil and head !!!
One of my 1HZ's has done 450,000 kms without a spanner touching it, and it is common for them to do 600,000+ before anything needs doing.....
All mine have DTS Turbo's as well........
Change the oil and head !!!
Harb
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2244&im=1
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2244&im=1
for the sake of like 300-350 buks i would change them, especially if i was going around Aus. That way there are no doubts in your mind. Because if something does let go, then you will be saying should of, would of, could of! i have a feeling there is no big difference between the 1HZ, 1HDT, 1HD-FT bottom end. If you do it now you will see what condition they are in then will give you an indication how long the next set will last. I have experienced first hand what happens when one lets go in a 1HDT and its not something that makes you want to jump in the air and go "oh what a feeling!!!" When it comes to diesels prevention is better then cure cause they are $$$ to fix!
Troy
Troy
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
The reason you are hearing about bigends is the earlier (1990-1994)factory turbo motors have a problem chewing them, oil pressure on one of them is 60 cold and 30 running, and your 1hz is 90 cold and 60 running, and your motor doesnt exibit the problem, if you really want to check them, do the oil analysis, which will show up a problem, and take it from there, opening the motor for the sake of changing a non problem bearing is more likely to bite you half way around 0z than leaving it, especially if it has been problem free for over 100,000kms...
You rely on the mechanic to get it right first up, and no contamination to get in there and damage the mains.....if you were driving a hdt, id say yes, cheap insurance,
Andrew
You rely on the mechanic to get it right first up, and no contamination to get in there and damage the mains.....if you were driving a hdt, id say yes, cheap insurance,
Andrew
Confucious say...man who argue with idiot, worserer himself
Sorry I can't be more help about the price of the oil test kits ( I get mine from work for free), Last I heard they are around $26 a piece but don't quote me on that.
I would strongly recommend using oil of the viscosity stated in the owners manual, I know a thicker oil sounds better but it will quite often do more harm then good. I you can't achieve the specified oil pressure with the recommended oil then you have an engine problem, thicker oil is a bodgey fix and I would have serious doubts about anyone who offers this as a suggested fix.
I would strongly recommend using oil of the viscosity stated in the owners manual, I know a thicker oil sounds better but it will quite often do more harm then good. I you can't achieve the specified oil pressure with the recommended oil then you have an engine problem, thicker oil is a bodgey fix and I would have serious doubts about anyone who offers this as a suggested fix.
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