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Most valuable tools for diff housing swap?

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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Most valuable tools for diff housing swap?

Post by Froon »

Hey guys,

I've finally got a new diff housing for the GQ and have discovered that I'll need to do the swap alone... What tools do I need/do you recommend I'll need to get this done with minimal pain?

Cheers

Edit: Neglected to mention that the housing already has a centre and axels, it just needs to be bolted on.
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Post by Hoonz »

big set of spanners
possibly a breaker bar
jack
car stands x 2 sets one for the patrol one set for the diff
small spanners for brake lines
muscles

i'm guessing the diff is hub to hub ... as u said it had axels in it :S
H( * )( * )NZ loves B( * )( * )BIES
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Post by Froon »

Thats the words I was looking for... sorry, had a long day at work. :)
[quote="fool_injected"]
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Post by chunks »

Rattle gun would make things much easier, but if you cant get that than yeh a a breaker bar is next best thing.
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Post by love ke70 »

rattle gun, and if doing a full diff swap, a hydraulic jack with a nice big head on it to sit the diff on and lift up and pull around into place :D
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
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Post by Froon »

Should be able to do the rattlegun, I have bits and pieces in the shed I havn't explored yet, theres probably one there...

Got car stands and spanners, I think the only thing I lack is a decent jack, thanks guys I'll check it all out.
[quote="fool_injected"]
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Post by mavzilla »

BEER
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Post by badger »

50mm hub socket, 8mm hex bit for your rattle gun and a good set of circlip pliers.

the rest of its all simple stuff

ok just noticed the diff is complete not a housing, can what i said altho if it were me id check cv's n bearings wshile its on the floor
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Post by Daisy »

mavzilla wrote:BEER
save the beer until the hardest part of the job is done.

Or when you're stumped.... then have a beer... often gets your brain doing a bit of 'overtime' to work out the problem :twisted:
custom bar work, 4x4 parts, trailers, anything out of steel/alloy :D
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Post by j-top paj »

mavzilla wrote:BEER
cant do a job like that without beer :armsup:
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
my GU
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Post by love ke70 »

isnt it 53mm?
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
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Post by j-top paj »

i thought it was 54mm :?
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
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Post by Z()LTAN »

54 it is
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Post by love ke70 »

i havnt pulled mine out yet, but the book says 53.

ill take experience and say its 54 :)

at that size, if it is 53 and u use a 54, it isnt gonna matter anyway ;) :)
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
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Post by j-top paj »

but if its 54 and u use a 53 it will :lol:
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
my GU
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Post by love ke70 »

that was the point i was making ;)
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
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Post by Swerve »

Froon,

You finished yet, sick of seeing your 2wd Nissan in the carpark. May as well buy a sedan.

Steve
2010 TB48 GU Patrol
1973 G60 MWB Soft Top Showcar
1972 G60 MWB Soft Top Project 4WD
1978 G60 Ute "HellPatrol"
www.oz4wdclassicparts.com.au
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Post by j-top paj »

Swerve wrote:Froon,

You finished yet, sick of seeing your 2wd Nissan in the carpark. May as well buy a sedan.

Steve
:lol: give him a hand ;)
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
my GU
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Post by AJS »

No, it's 53. Get an old Radius Arm front bolt and grind the threaded end to a point. When refitting the arms, if you're having trouble lining up the front holes, knocking the modified bolt in can help. Then knock the new bolt in from the other side.
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Post by Swerve »

Froon,

You finished yet :roll:

Steve
2010 TB48 GU Patrol
1973 G60 MWB Soft Top Showcar
1972 G60 MWB Soft Top Project 4WD
1978 G60 Ute "HellPatrol"
www.oz4wdclassicparts.com.au
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Post by GQ4B »

Bolt some wheels on if you have any lying around - the smaller the better. Makes life really easy moving the diff around and positioning it under the truck. Saves having to do the balancing act on a trolley jack too. Just jack your truck up as high as you can get.
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Post by stool »

Brake lines are a bitch to undo without striping the nut .

And yes mine are now round .

Also some diff housings are a bees @ick different as I needed to mod part of my caster plate on the drivers side to clear the diff pumkin
Which had me fu*ked why
GQ with big nuts
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Post by nastytroll »

crack the old brake line nut with some vice grips n use a flared nut spanner on it, any time after that a flare nut spanner will be fine.

After years of being tight, the first time crack to unseat the nut is hard.
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Post by Froon »

Swerve wrote:Froon,

You finished yet :roll:

Steve
You didn't see me walking around the office in a sling mate? Nearly killed myself just moving the bloody thing...

I've actually come up with a better solution though... after FINALLY figuring out what the issue was, I think I'll use the new diff bits to rebuild the hubs... My brother in law finally admitted the other day to assembling the wrong when he replaced the bearings for me (knew I should have done them myself)

So anyway... Think I'll be working on it this weekend.[/i]
[quote="fool_injected"]
For once I don't have a smart arse retort, usally I\m pretty handy :lol:[/quote]
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