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ARB LOCKER

General Tech Talk

Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators

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ARB LOCKER

Post by stormpatrol »

ARB air locker not worky , has got oil in the air line and im thinkin that the o rings are rooted ? am i right or is there sum other reason they dont engage ?? :bad-words: :bad-words: :bad-words:
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Post by the gun »

they will still work with oil breathing from the soilnoid, check air supply to the locker at the diff, if there is no air work back to the compressor.
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yip

Post by stormpatrol »

got air at diff but no worky $ arb newy wants $400.00 to replace two o rings guess what i said :bad-words: :bad-words: :bad-words:
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Re: yip

Post by bogged »

stormpatrol wrote: guess what i said :bad-words: :bad-words: :bad-words:
you said, you will be happy to have a locker that doesnt work instead of replacing o'rings?
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Re: yip

Post by Nat84 »

stormpatrol wrote:got air at diff but no worky $ arb newy wants $400.00 to replace two o rings guess what i said :bad-words: :bad-words: :bad-words:

i payed $480 for a full rebuilt diff center from ARB

and the 2 o rings my old man got done in his locker and payed $150
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a

Post by ashbilt »

its prob not the o rings ay how old is the locker i used to work at arb perth and i sorted out a lot of thier air and oil leak isues, how mechanicly minded are you i could run you through the process of the repairs/mods an will only cost ya a few bucks for the o rings(that you would change being that the diff is out) couple other cheap bits an some diff oil. i mainly need to know how old it is.
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Re: yip

Post by roverrat »

bogged wrote:
stormpatrol wrote: guess what i said :bad-words: :bad-words: :bad-words:
you said, you will be happy to have a locker that doesnt work instead of replacing o'rings?
bruce you can be such a biatch :D still funnay tho .. not sure if it helps the thread but it amused me :D
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Re: a

Post by stormpatrol »

ashbilt wrote:its prob not the o rings ay how old is the locker i used to work at arb perth and i sorted out a lot of thier air and oil leak isues, how mechanicly minded are you i could run you through the process of the repairs/mods an will only cost ya a few bucks for the o rings(that you would change being that the diff is out) couple other cheap bits an some diff oil. i mainly need to know how old it is.
OK ITS about 3 years old can find the paper work but thats about right 3 years
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Post by bigcam »

the two o rings between the seal housing and the bearing shaft will be rooted, the air line pressurised the diff and when you turn it off the oil goes back up the line (think blowing in a prima drink)

o rings are about $4 each from arb change them yourself.
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yip

Post by stormpatrol »

they are the two brown o rings [viton ] in the seal ring that comes off with the spring clipy thing , if so should be fine to do :D
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a

Post by ashbilt »

hey mate if its 3 years old ya wanna ask the clowns at arb for the new style ''c'' clip for a start, grab yaself a couple ''o'' rings pull ya diff out unclip the ''c'' clip gently remove seal housing pull uot the rings clean out the grooves the rings sit in lube up the new ones refit seal housing with new style clip an make sure the locking tab is not fowling the seal housing(i usually fit a small washer under the tab to raise it slightly if need be just tap the tab up with a punch, make sure once all thats done that when you move the crownwheel back an forth that the seal housing as free movement in ONLY the back an forth direction(any sideway movement will resault in the same prob your having now (the seal housin acting as an oil pump)). make sure ya operate your compressor an actiate the locker switch a few times before ya refit it all clear the existing oil out the lines
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ok

Post by stormpatrol »

thanks for that will do :D
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Re: a

Post by Cossie »

ashbilt wrote:hey mate if its 3 years old ya wanna ask the clowns at arb for the new style ''c'' clip for a start, grab yaself a couple ''o'' rings pull ya diff out unclip the ''c'' clip gently remove seal housing pull uot the rings clean out the grooves the rings sit in lube up the new ones refit seal housing with new style clip an make sure the locking tab is not fowling the seal housing(i usually fit a small washer under the tab to raise it slightly if need be just tap the tab up with a punch, make sure once all thats done that when you move the crownwheel back an forth that the seal housing as free movement in ONLY the back an forth direction(any sideway movement will resault in the same prob your having now (the seal housin acting as an oil pump)). make sure ya operate your compressor an actiate the locker switch a few times before ya refit it all clear the existing oil out the lines
Listen to this guy, he knows what he's talking about.
Most oil problems are caused by installation error, not allowing enough slack in the copper tube to allow the seal housing to float back and forth. Make certain it is free to rotate slightly or it will come out sideways and pump oil.
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