Finally got my new rig the other day and am now searching for a factory rear locker out of a 3.5L pajero. I know they are common on the import paj's but finding one is next to impossible.
Can anyone help with some links??? Oh yeah, I now have a NL Swb, leather trim, auto and heaps of useless sh*t that comes standard... Am considering a 3L rear end swap with hd axles... but would much rather find a 3.5 locker..
Any help is appreciated...
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3.5L rear locker help.
Moderator: -Scott-
3.5L rear locker help.
09 Mitsu Evo X Mr
09 Suzuki Swift
09 VW 190kw Tiguan
09 Suzuki Swift
09 VW 190kw Tiguan
Good stuff Grant, looking foward to your build up 
If you can't find one around your neck of the woods there is one down here from an NJ 3.5 V6 DOHC at a wreckers near my work. Still in the car I believe which has done less than 100,000K's.
I don't know how much or if they will ship it to you ??
All 4WD Spares (03)9791 1922
www.all4wd.com.au
If you go the 3.0 V6 rear end with an ARB locker and custom HD axles consider converting to full floaters, not that hard to do.
Frank.
If you can't find one around your neck of the woods there is one down here from an NJ 3.5 V6 DOHC at a wreckers near my work. Still in the car I believe which has done less than 100,000K's.
I don't know how much or if they will ship it to you ??
All 4WD Spares (03)9791 1922
www.all4wd.com.au
If you go the 3.0 V6 rear end with an ARB locker and custom HD axles consider converting to full floaters, not that hard to do.
Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Hi Grant,
been there done that.
BTW you DONT have to swap in the entire rear end, its all interchangeable. How do I know. Well before I did my swap (NJ 3.5l to NK 3.5l) the general consesnus was that you couldnt relocate parts off a locked rear end into the non locked rearend. Some said the housings were different & some said that one axle was of a different length etc. So I swapped over the entire rear end (bugger of a job too). Anyway some 2 sets of tyres later & my realisation that something was seriously wrong since I was wearing the rear tyres on the inside!!. Took it to a truck alignment specialist & he told me the rear end was bent??.
Bugger, so I took out the bent locked rear end & swapped back in my old rear end , put in the locked diff centre & put my old axles back in since they were only 60k old.
ANyway every thing fitted & I was on my way. Well thats for a LWB set up anyway.
BTW , you need to get the compressor as well, its in the rear seat cavity on the drivers side. it runs at bout 6psi. If you also want to use a mitsu locker dash switch then you have to get a pulse relay to run it, its not like a normal toggle switch. You could probably avoid this by using the Mitsu locker ECU but that was more wiring up than I wanted to do. An easier way of doing it would be to use the locker switch that ARB makes , that way you probably wouldnt even need a relay as the compressor only draws about .5 amp if I rememebr correctly.
You can also run an active from the switch inside the rear diff(or the console switch) to the rear of the diff diagram in your speedo cluster, then when the locker is on the light comes on illuminating the diff centre of the diagram. Just like the factory set up!.
I would try getting the locker off a 3.5l that way you wont have to change your front diff ratio. Not sure what ratio the shorties run though.
Once you get the locker you will not look back
cheers & let me know if you need any more info.
been there done that.
BTW you DONT have to swap in the entire rear end, its all interchangeable. How do I know. Well before I did my swap (NJ 3.5l to NK 3.5l) the general consesnus was that you couldnt relocate parts off a locked rear end into the non locked rearend. Some said the housings were different & some said that one axle was of a different length etc. So I swapped over the entire rear end (bugger of a job too). Anyway some 2 sets of tyres later & my realisation that something was seriously wrong since I was wearing the rear tyres on the inside!!. Took it to a truck alignment specialist & he told me the rear end was bent??.
Bugger, so I took out the bent locked rear end & swapped back in my old rear end , put in the locked diff centre & put my old axles back in since they were only 60k old.
ANyway every thing fitted & I was on my way. Well thats for a LWB set up anyway.
BTW , you need to get the compressor as well, its in the rear seat cavity on the drivers side. it runs at bout 6psi. If you also want to use a mitsu locker dash switch then you have to get a pulse relay to run it, its not like a normal toggle switch. You could probably avoid this by using the Mitsu locker ECU but that was more wiring up than I wanted to do. An easier way of doing it would be to use the locker switch that ARB makes , that way you probably wouldnt even need a relay as the compressor only draws about .5 amp if I rememebr correctly.
You can also run an active from the switch inside the rear diff(or the console switch) to the rear of the diff diagram in your speedo cluster, then when the locker is on the light comes on illuminating the diff centre of the diagram. Just like the factory set up!.
I would try getting the locker off a 3.5l that way you wont have to change your front diff ratio. Not sure what ratio the shorties run though.
Once you get the locker you will not look back
cheers & let me know if you need any more info.
Thats very interesting Ian, so the axles and diff housings are the same for the lsd vs locker ?? So it's only the diff centres that are different ??
My CAPS program lists the lsd axles and housing as different part no's compared to the factory locker equivalents.
Does the airline and sensor wiring connect into the centre housing or the diff housing ??
If thats the case grant only needs the diff centre (all 3.5 V6's run the 4.636 ratio) and compressor the wiring could be done like you said.
Frank.
My CAPS program lists the lsd axles and housing as different part no's compared to the factory locker equivalents.
Does the airline and sensor wiring connect into the centre housing or the diff housing ??
If thats the case grant only needs the diff centre (all 3.5 V6's run the 4.636 ratio) and compressor the wiring could be done like you said.
Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Hi Frank,
yes thats right. The only thing that appears to be missing on a non locked rearend is a small bendable flap to secure down all the diff wiring, other than that its all identicle IMO.
All the wiring & air line etc goes into the diff centre, so all you really need is the centre & the compressor.
BTW there is a tiny switch inside the diff that actually closes as the diff lock part comes into operation, it makes a circuit (once the thing is locked) to send back to the ECU. It is better to run this active to the dash light & then you definately know that the diff is locked because I have found that even though the compressor or dash switch can be on the diff can actually take some time to lock so you might be lulled into a false sense of security if you use one of the other actives since they would be saying yes there is power so the diff is locked when it mightnt be.
I think it depends if the locking cogs etc are aligned at the time the compressor is turned on. But it doesnt take long for them to line up anyway.
If Grant does go this way, be careful taking the diff centre out from under the car. Its bloody heavy. best to use a trolley jack I would reckon.
If I had of known all this at the start it would have cost me a heap less & a heap less mucking around etc. but its like most things on a car, you just dont know til you try it.
cheers mate
yes thats right. The only thing that appears to be missing on a non locked rearend is a small bendable flap to secure down all the diff wiring, other than that its all identicle IMO.
All the wiring & air line etc goes into the diff centre, so all you really need is the centre & the compressor.
BTW there is a tiny switch inside the diff that actually closes as the diff lock part comes into operation, it makes a circuit (once the thing is locked) to send back to the ECU. It is better to run this active to the dash light & then you definately know that the diff is locked because I have found that even though the compressor or dash switch can be on the diff can actually take some time to lock so you might be lulled into a false sense of security if you use one of the other actives since they would be saying yes there is power so the diff is locked when it mightnt be.
I think it depends if the locking cogs etc are aligned at the time the compressor is turned on. But it doesnt take long for them to line up anyway.
If Grant does go this way, be careful taking the diff centre out from under the car. Its bloody heavy. best to use a trolley jack I would reckon.
If I had of known all this at the start it would have cost me a heap less & a heap less mucking around etc. but its like most things on a car, you just dont know til you try it.
cheers mate
Oh forgot to say.
From memory I think that one axle (cant remember which one) was about 1cm different in length from its non locked equal.
But I found that the non locked axles fitted anyway with no trouble. There is plenty of meat & splines in the centre to allow for the difference.
If unsure then just get the axles as well anyway since it pays to have a spare set & guess what they are $500 a pop new !!!.
From memory I think that one axle (cant remember which one) was about 1cm different in length from its non locked equal.
But I found that the non locked axles fitted anyway with no trouble. There is plenty of meat & splines in the centre to allow for the difference.
If unsure then just get the axles as well anyway since it pays to have a spare set & guess what they are $500 a pop new !!!.
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