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Diesel gas
Hi All,
I have been following this and other gas fumigation threads with interest. I have just bought a 99 GU DX 4.2 N/A wagon and am looking to fit an aftermarket turbo and gas. I have spoken to 2 'reputable' turbo shops in Perth and have been told that TD42 motors built after 1995 and before 2000 have weaker internals and donot cope well with excessive heat.
These shops advised me that if I were to turbo:
1. Not to boost above 9 psi
2. Pyro not required. One said when they dyno they tune to ensure egts do not exceed 475 as opposed to 550 on pre 95 TD42 motors.
3. Donot use lpg as this will increase egts and threaten longevity of motor. One of the shops does fit LPG and he was pretty clear that he would not do it on a 99 TD42 N/A with aftermarket turbo.
4. Go for watercooled garret turbo as this will be better at keeping heat down.
5. 3 inch dump pipe with 2.75 exhaust is all you need. 3 inch is 'pose value'
Now I have researched this issue to death on many forums and am starting to get confused as. Am I being fed a load of by these installers?
I am not after masive amounts of power as the truck is a daily driver/tourer towing a camper trailer.
In my view if I go for 9psi boost (water or oiled cooled turbo) and 3inch exhaust with an EGT then gas it but get the gas tuned mainly for economy with obvious power gains and watch EGTs I should be ok in the long term. What do you guys reckon
I have been following this and other gas fumigation threads with interest. I have just bought a 99 GU DX 4.2 N/A wagon and am looking to fit an aftermarket turbo and gas. I have spoken to 2 'reputable' turbo shops in Perth and have been told that TD42 motors built after 1995 and before 2000 have weaker internals and donot cope well with excessive heat.
These shops advised me that if I were to turbo:
1. Not to boost above 9 psi
2. Pyro not required. One said when they dyno they tune to ensure egts do not exceed 475 as opposed to 550 on pre 95 TD42 motors.
3. Donot use lpg as this will increase egts and threaten longevity of motor. One of the shops does fit LPG and he was pretty clear that he would not do it on a 99 TD42 N/A with aftermarket turbo.
4. Go for watercooled garret turbo as this will be better at keeping heat down.
5. 3 inch dump pipe with 2.75 exhaust is all you need. 3 inch is 'pose value'
Now I have researched this issue to death on many forums and am starting to get confused as. Am I being fed a load of by these installers?
I am not after masive amounts of power as the truck is a daily driver/tourer towing a camper trailer.
In my view if I go for 9psi boost (water or oiled cooled turbo) and 3inch exhaust with an EGT then gas it but get the gas tuned mainly for economy with obvious power gains and watch EGTs I should be ok in the long term. What do you guys reckon
GQGasPig wrote:Hi All,
I have been following this and other gas fumigation threads with interest. I have just bought a 99 GU DX 4.2 N/A wagon and am looking to fit an aftermarket turbo and gas. I have spoken to 2 'reputable' turbo shops in Perth and have been told that TD42 motors built after 1995 and before 2000 have weaker internals and donot cope well with excessive heat.
These shops advised me that if I were to turbo:
1. Not to boost above 9 psi Agree
2. Pyro not required. One said when they dyno they tune to ensure egts do not exceed 475 as opposed to 550 on pre 95 TD42 motors.
Disagree - a pyro will let you know what your engine is doing - you can be in control. If the EGT heads towards the recommended maximum then you can change gears or back off to control the temperature. At least you know what is going on with your engine
3. Donot use lpg as this will increase egts and threaten longevity of motor. One of the shops does fit LPG and he was pretty clear that he would not do it on a 99 TD42 N/A with aftermarket turbo.
Below is a quote from the Diesel Gas Australia website -
Exhaust gas temperatures are reduced, since there is no longer fuel being burnt in the exhaust system.
4. Go for watercooled garret turbo as this will be better at keeping heat down.
Possibly the localised heat - but water or air cooled turbos are going to generate the same amount of heat - with a water cooled turbo you are whisking the heat away to the cooler which then transfers the heat into the airstream anyway. As a result the underbonnett temperatures will even out especially on longer trips or heavier loads. One good way to reduce underbonnet heat from a turbo is to utilise a larger exhaust to pipe the heat away easier.
5. 3 inch dump pipe with 2.75 exhaust is all you need. 3 inch is 'pose value'
refer to point 4 above - a 3" taipan exhaust will help to extract the (hot) gases quicker than most exhausts and is reasonably quiet - and good pose value.
Now I have researched this issue to death on many forums and am starting to get confused as. Am I being fed a load of by these installers?
Different views by different specialists due to different experiences - I believe that you would fine with 9 lb boost, 3" Taipan XP Exhaust, snorkel, K&N air filter & LPG - with a Pyro to monitor the EGTs.
I am not after masive amounts of power as the truck is a daily driver/tourer towing a camper trailer.
In my view if I go for 9psi boost (water or oiled cooled turbo) and 3inch exhaust with an EGT then gas it but get the gas tuned mainly for economy with obvious power gains and watch EGTs I should be ok in the long term. What do you guys reckon Spot on.
Peter K.
I agree with all of bowtie landies sugestions, right up until he suggest a K&N pod filter......
I would not use one of these on a tourer with the dust you get in W.A.
They flow more, yes, No argument there.
This is because they let a lot more crap through....
ON ROAD USE ONLY
I would not use one of these on a tourer with the dust you get in W.A.
They flow more, yes, No argument there.
This is because they let a lot more crap through....
ON ROAD USE ONLY
05 Patrol ST-S 4.2 Tdi with some stuff.
What size are the LPG tanks being used under a GQ for dieselgas that sits up the highest? I believe they are the same diameter but only vary in length to get more capacity. APA part number would be great. I want to extend the range in my petty. I know they aren't cost effective for their capacity, but it is what it is. Hopefully the rebate, if it's still going, will cover some cost.
[quote="bazooked"]can i use a mate to position while i screw? :twisted:[/quote]
Mate i have had mine converted for about 6 months now, i get approx. 100-150 kls extra with the 30 ltrs of gas.Saves about $20.00 per fill. (120 ltrs diesel-30 ltrs gas) Depending on what sort of driving your doing the different savings.
Gazza
Gazza
2000 GU patrol ST. 4.2 Diesel/Gas TD. Snorkel, 2.5" exhaust, Alloy Roof Rack, 2"lift, Dual Battery, Uniden CB,
back again, i cant be exactly sure but it was the series 2 version from
Diesel technology who are based in S.A. But fitted in Pakenham Victoria. So far i can only rave about it. The extra power, quieter motor, cleaner oil, further kls. In Victoria you only get back $2000.00 rebate (i dont know for how much longer)It costs about $4.300.00 up front befor the rebate over here. For the amount of kls i do it will take about 3.5 years to recoup my money. The more kls you do the more savings.I would be sure diesel technology would have fitters over in W.A.
Gazza
Diesel technology who are based in S.A. But fitted in Pakenham Victoria. So far i can only rave about it. The extra power, quieter motor, cleaner oil, further kls. In Victoria you only get back $2000.00 rebate (i dont know for how much longer)It costs about $4.300.00 up front befor the rebate over here. For the amount of kls i do it will take about 3.5 years to recoup my money. The more kls you do the more savings.I would be sure diesel technology would have fitters over in W.A.
Gazza
2000 GU patrol ST. 4.2 Diesel/Gas TD. Snorkel, 2.5" exhaust, Alloy Roof Rack, 2"lift, Dual Battery, Uniden CB,
No worrys gazza, i really want gas but my mechanic is dead against it, i cant find any reason not to get it tho. Even if gas goes up diesel will go up aswell so i cant see a problem there, the other thing my mechanic said is that it would increase temps, have you worked yours hard for an extended period gazza. If that increases temp dramatically i will have to give it a miss and go with an intercooler instead.
Mate i only have the standard temp gauge on my wagon, i towed a 2 tonne caravan plus 2 adults and 3 big kids to Queensland and back and did not notice any increase in temp. what so ever.I wouldnt think a intercooler would give you much more power or better fuel economy or quieter engine or cleaner oil , thats my opinion.
Gazza
Gazza
2000 GU patrol ST. 4.2 Diesel/Gas TD. Snorkel, 2.5" exhaust, Alloy Roof Rack, 2"lift, Dual Battery, Uniden CB,
I didnt think the gas would sause extra heat but im not a mechanic so im just going off what others say. I would prefer gas but my mechanic isnt real happy about it. I have 4 options, 1 Gas which i want but dont want to piss the mechanic off, 2 intercooler, 3 different turbo, 4 turbo upgrade. i might start another thread to see what other people think of my options.
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