G'day guys,
Now i know all the forum memeber will be out @ tuff truck,
but,
mates just bought a TD42 Gq after month of me naggin him...
the clown ran it out of diesel about 2 weeks ago and since then , primes to pump, but nothing from pump.
any 1 got a cheap fix for the poor bloke or a spare pump cheap?
The diesel mech down our way charge for lookng at it..
Cheers
Chappo
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td42 pump
yer mate,
the nut/screw on top of the pump,got him to prime to filter then to pump.
But nothing to rail...
he had it towed to a mech yesterday, got a call today,
$1200 to fix...
or $600 for the looking/work his done. and then ...take it home...
to me it sounds like a internal seal, but i havent pulled a TD42 pump appart yet.
any idea's
the nut/screw on top of the pump,got him to prime to filter then to pump.
But nothing to rail...
he had it towed to a mech yesterday, got a call today,
$1200 to fix...
or $600 for the looking/work his done. and then ...take it home...
to me it sounds like a internal seal, but i havent pulled a TD42 pump appart yet.
any idea's
GQ//6" lift//2" Body//37" M/T//fnt+rear arb lockers//arb bar work// Gme3200// + Car seats x 3
ive run mine out of fuel twice with no issues.
guess thats a case of serious bad luck :(
with mine, i just pump the thingo til its hard
crank it a bit, pump it up again and away she will go...
guess thats a case of serious bad luck :(
with mine, i just pump the thingo til its hard
crank it a bit, pump it up again and away she will go...
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
I just put a new filter on mine and had some problems, heres what happaned and some things to check:
put new filter on, opened plastic bung at top of bleed pump housing, pumped hand primer until diesel came out with minimal/no air bubbles, closed plastic bung, then move to injector pump, open screw (don't have to remove it or the plastic bung at any time, just a turn or two) on top of fuel inlet union (will be the highest point on the pump and about a 12mm spanner from memory), start pumping the bleed housing pump until no air bubbles then close the pump bleed screw.
Now, at this stage there shouldn't be air in the system and the motor should start with a little hesitation, however if the new filter was dry, as the diesel is soaking into the filter media air bubbles may come out (you could fill the filter and leave it soaking for a couple of hours to fix this)
At this point mine started up ok and ran a little rough, i bled a little more air out at this point.
however after letting it sit for an hour or so it would start and run for a bit then die until i bled the system again, this happened for 3 days, had to bleed the system every time i went to and from work.....
Obviously it was sucking air from somewhere, i tried the following:
re checked all o-rings including water drain valve, light coat of oil on them all before installation, tried old filter, still no good...
During this time i could hear a very faint sucking from the top of the bleed pump housing (my theory was that the diapram had a hole and was letting air in and the fuel was draining back to the tank under gravity)
I tested this by wrapping the the top of the housing in glad wrap and taping it in place - should be able to see if its sucking or not by movement in the glad wrap, no suction!
Next step was the water drain at the bottom of the filter, unscrewed and cleaned and tried to suck through it, stuck it in a glass of cordial and just got a bit through, checked the araldite website to see if araldite is diesel stable, then fill all the drain ports in the water drain with araldite(unscrewed the thumbscrew and filled the hole then put the screw back in and wiped off the excess, put it together and hey presto, 2000k later and its all good, for the record nissan charge $65 for the water sensor and drain.
Hopefully your problem isn't the pump, don't see why it would be if it was fine before it ran out of fuel (you could try changing the filter as it may have sucked in some crud about $50 for nissan or ryco do one), other things to check could be hose clamps and perished lines, even still you could buy a second hand pump for less than that guy was going to charge, sounds like a joke, but personally if i can't do something myself i learn, just don't like paying or relying on other people to do something i can do.
Another thought is that if you are getting fuel to the top of the pump when bleeding but the car won't start is that you would have to bleed the individual injector lines, never had to do it but would guess that you would just crack the fittings on the injectors with a couple spanners one at a time and crank the motor over until fuel comes out, tighten fitting and move to next injector.
In case you're unaware, the reason it wouldn't run when the injector lines are full of air is that every time the injector pump tries to pump a shot of diesel in the air just compresses and no it usually won't blow the air past the injectors.
Sorry about the novel, but hope it helps, any questions just ask, good luck!
put new filter on, opened plastic bung at top of bleed pump housing, pumped hand primer until diesel came out with minimal/no air bubbles, closed plastic bung, then move to injector pump, open screw (don't have to remove it or the plastic bung at any time, just a turn or two) on top of fuel inlet union (will be the highest point on the pump and about a 12mm spanner from memory), start pumping the bleed housing pump until no air bubbles then close the pump bleed screw.
Now, at this stage there shouldn't be air in the system and the motor should start with a little hesitation, however if the new filter was dry, as the diesel is soaking into the filter media air bubbles may come out (you could fill the filter and leave it soaking for a couple of hours to fix this)
At this point mine started up ok and ran a little rough, i bled a little more air out at this point.
however after letting it sit for an hour or so it would start and run for a bit then die until i bled the system again, this happened for 3 days, had to bleed the system every time i went to and from work.....
Obviously it was sucking air from somewhere, i tried the following:
re checked all o-rings including water drain valve, light coat of oil on them all before installation, tried old filter, still no good...
During this time i could hear a very faint sucking from the top of the bleed pump housing (my theory was that the diapram had a hole and was letting air in and the fuel was draining back to the tank under gravity)
I tested this by wrapping the the top of the housing in glad wrap and taping it in place - should be able to see if its sucking or not by movement in the glad wrap, no suction!
Next step was the water drain at the bottom of the filter, unscrewed and cleaned and tried to suck through it, stuck it in a glass of cordial and just got a bit through, checked the araldite website to see if araldite is diesel stable, then fill all the drain ports in the water drain with araldite(unscrewed the thumbscrew and filled the hole then put the screw back in and wiped off the excess, put it together and hey presto, 2000k later and its all good, for the record nissan charge $65 for the water sensor and drain.
Hopefully your problem isn't the pump, don't see why it would be if it was fine before it ran out of fuel (you could try changing the filter as it may have sucked in some crud about $50 for nissan or ryco do one), other things to check could be hose clamps and perished lines, even still you could buy a second hand pump for less than that guy was going to charge, sounds like a joke, but personally if i can't do something myself i learn, just don't like paying or relying on other people to do something i can do.
Another thought is that if you are getting fuel to the top of the pump when bleeding but the car won't start is that you would have to bleed the individual injector lines, never had to do it but would guess that you would just crack the fittings on the injectors with a couple spanners one at a time and crank the motor over until fuel comes out, tighten fitting and move to next injector.
In case you're unaware, the reason it wouldn't run when the injector lines are full of air is that every time the injector pump tries to pump a shot of diesel in the air just compresses and no it usually won't blow the air past the injectors.
Sorry about the novel, but hope it helps, any questions just ask, good luck!
There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots
thanks for that mate,
yer mine was similar, they gave me wrong filter .. suck air from under it.
- just spoke with him,
has primed to filter, then to pump, but nothing to injectors,
the mech told him something about hi-flow side not working?
yer, this guy seen him coming.
He tried each injector indiviually also,
sent the battery flat doing so...
im with you mate, i fix or learn to fix.
he's normaly the same, but no net, so makes it hard.
Cheers
yer mine was similar, they gave me wrong filter .. suck air from under it.
- just spoke with him,
has primed to filter, then to pump, but nothing to injectors,
the mech told him something about hi-flow side not working?
yer, this guy seen him coming.
He tried each injector indiviually also,
sent the battery flat doing so...
im with you mate, i fix or learn to fix.
he's normaly the same, but no net, so makes it hard.
Cheers
GQ//6" lift//2" Body//37" M/T//fnt+rear arb lockers//arb bar work// Gme3200// + Car seats x 3
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