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ScrawnC wrote:Just had another look at your photos and saw the pod filter. There should be a vacuum line running to the airbox that controls the flap for the warm air from the exhaust when cold. You need to track down that vacuum line and make sure it has been plugged up with a bolt or something. If it has just been left that will be causing the high idle.
WOOOOO HOOOOOOOO YEAH BABY YEAH
YES!!!!!! THATS IT BECAUSE I PUT MY FINGER OVER IT AND IT WAS SUCKING AIR BUT I DIDNT KNOW WHAT IT WAS AND LEFT IT ALONE!!!!!
IVE GOT THE POD SET UP ON THE INTAKE FOR THE CARBY BUT WHEN I TOOK OFF THE ORIGINAL AIR BOX IT HAD THAT VACUME HOSE CONNECTED TO IT - I TOOK IT OFF AND LEFT IT THATS WHAT THE PROBLEM IS!!!!!
DieselZook wrote:First tell us when you found out that no.1 and no.4 leads were the wrong way around? Before you timed it or after?, And what about 2 and 3?
Swaping 1 and 4 is not going to do damage because what you are doing is fireing the spark just when you have exhausted your charge and drawing in a new one. No compression, and you are either igniting the charge in the exhaust pipe or intake manifold (hence the small poping sound) and valves are open for aprox 180 degrees before and after the spark event, so there is a lot of space for the burning charge to go.
Just for your information, this screw sets your base idle.
But check your timing again (After you have made sure the leads are the right way around). make sure you haven't done something silly like set it to 5 degree before or maybe even after top dead centre. Retarding the spark at idle with no load will cause the idle speed to rise.
it was before i timed it, i rearranged them into order before i timed it...im pretty sure that what i wrote above is the problem as scrawnc suggested...below:
"Just had another look at your photos and saw the pod filter. There should be a vacuum line running to the airbox that controls the flap for the warm air from the exhaust when cold. You need to track down that vacuum line and make sure it has been plugged up with a bolt or something. If it has just been left that will be causing the high idle"
so lets say thats the problem - that vacume hose, after ivwe pluged this up, im assuming the idle should drop down?? if not then its another vacume hose somewhere else?
assuming the vacume hose(s) are all fixed will i have to do the timing again? or can i just adjust the idle speed screw to get the idle where its supposed to be?
Once all the vacuum leaks are fixed the idle should return to 900 or there abouts. Might pay to recheck the timing after as timing is set at idle not 1500-2000 rpm. Make sure everything else is right before you go playing with carby adjustments.
