Hey mark, the rocky road site I posted above suggests 1978 to 1981 model celicas, coronas & cressidas...joeblow wrote:mark, various model cressidas.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
simple power steer?
x2Dee wrote:
I'd still prefer to drill a 10mm plate & have it all bolt on/removable though, rather than drillng the chassis & cutting & welding in crush tubes, but that me, as I'm after a bolt on solution.
still looks great all CAD drawn and stuff.
got any pics of it mounted in real life form
michael
You have teh skills in Solidworks.
Thanks for sharing dude.
If I didnt already have the bits and pieces for my ps conversion sitting here Id look into this for sure.
For the record, Im using a 70series cruiser box, Surf pitman arm, and ford teardrop pump.
Thanks for sharing dude.
If I didnt already have the bits and pieces for my ps conversion sitting here Id look into this for sure.
For the record, Im using a 70series cruiser box, Surf pitman arm, and ford teardrop pump.
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
Out of interest do the pitmans suggested already have the correct taper at the tie rod end? I personally think making an adapter plate for the vit box would be easier than the new bolt pattern, crush tubes and hose work but I love the idea of having the steering line parrallel with the chassis. I overcame the the vit box angle with an additional uni in place of the rubber vibration joint.
Sierra
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
Yeah I understand where your coming from. The way the plate works 3 bolts run through the plate and chassis from the passenger side in the standard sierra location. This mounts the plate to the chassis. Then 3 bolts run back through the plate and box from the drivers side. This mounts the box to the plate. This effectively spreads the load across the same area of the chassis as the standard box. I dont see how this is any weaker as standard. Any force on the box would pull the bolts and crush tube through the 3mm chassis wall long before it pulled the bolts through the 10mm plate I would have thought.joeblow wrote:i'm hoping the vit box isn't only bolted to this plate. all box bolts should go through the chassis and not just into the plate.look at the vitara and you will see it has shanked studs that go all the way through.
Once again I'm not simply trying to defend the way I've done mine. I think your design is fantastic. I like hearing other poeple's points of view. That way if someone points out something inately wrong in what I've done I can improve/ change it. Especially if it saves me from rolling at 100km/h
Sierra
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
x2.Hybrid wrote:This effectively spreads the load across the same area of the chassis as the standard box. I dont see how this is any weaker as standard. Any force on the box would pull the bolts and crush tube through the 3mm chassis wall long before it pulled the bolts through the 10mm plate I would have thought.joeblow wrote:i'm hoping the vit box isn't only bolted to this plate. all box bolts should go through the chassis and not just into the plate.look at the vitara and you will see it has shanked studs that go all the way through.
going by what gwagensteve said 11_evl has had this method approved by an engineer. I doubt they would approve somthing weaker than standard/something that would comprimise strenght & safety. They wont even approve cut,welded or modified steering links/arms. And the ones who will, would want to have them x-rayed.
Sorry, Its wasn't my intention to start a competition. I wanted you to point out where you feel the weakness is in the vitara box mount. That way if I feel its credible i can take action to try and make my personal set up better.joeblow wrote:WHAT THE! when did this post turn into a competition? just tryin to show people a different method is all.
Sierra
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
I have a Cressida power steering box in my zook, and its a pretty nice install.
The steering shaft also bolts straight up without having to cut / weld it to change the length. You just slot out the holes a little on the Toy rag joint. The box also clears the radiator mount and front guard.
Oh, and you can either use the Vitara pitman arm (which has the same taper as your stock drag link but little drop (good for hi-steer), or you can fit a Tarago arm, which has about the same drop as a stock zuk pitman arm, although then the taper is larger, so you need a different TRE.
Thats what I made to fit mine. I have sold a couple to guys over here in NZ, and I know of one in a truck that has been certified (what you guys would call "engineered") with the conversion.
Ben
The Celica box mounts with the steering shaft parallel to the chassis, unlike the Vitara box where you either need a wedge or a uni joint. This means you just use a rag joint, just like stock.Gwagensteve wrote:What makes the cressida box better than a vitara one? The mounting pattern is pretty much the same so the labour to fit doesn't really look any different.
Steve.
The steering shaft also bolts straight up without having to cut / weld it to change the length. You just slot out the holes a little on the Toy rag joint. The box also clears the radiator mount and front guard.
Oh, and you can either use the Vitara pitman arm (which has the same taper as your stock drag link but little drop (good for hi-steer), or you can fit a Tarago arm, which has about the same drop as a stock zuk pitman arm, although then the taper is larger, so you need a different TRE.
What you need is an adaptor plate like this:Hybrid wrote:I personally think making an adapter plate for the vit box would be easier than the new bolt pattern, crush tubes and hose work but I love the idea of having the steering line parrallel with the chassis. I overcame the the vit box angle with an additional uni in place of the rubber vibration joint.
Thats what I made to fit mine. I have sold a couple to guys over here in NZ, and I know of one in a truck that has been certified (what you guys would call "engineered") with the conversion.
Ben
WWW.ZUKPARTS.COM - Quality Suzuki Off-road Parts - 1600 Adaptor kits - Vitara Power Steering adaptor kits - Disc brake kits - Heavy Duty Transfer case arms & more
Hey Ben,BenT wrote:What you need is an adaptor plate like this:Hybrid wrote:I personally think making an adapter plate for the vit box would be easier than the new bolt pattern, crush tubes and hose work but I love the idea of having the steering line parrallel with the chassis. I overcame the the vit box angle with an additional uni in place of the rubber vibration joint.
Thats what I made to fit mine. I have sold a couple to guys over here in NZ, and I know of one in a truck that has been certified (what you guys would call "engineered") with the conversion.
Ben
That plates for the vit right? If so thats exactly what I've done. Just not as fancy with all those pretty curves. Shes just a plain old rectangle.
John
Sierra
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
X2Dee wrote:ok, sorry i must have mis-interpreted.11_evl wrote:my setup IS NOT engineered.
Sorry for any misunderstanding.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Bens plate is for a toyota
-----
"I have a Cressida power steering box in my zook, and its a pretty nice install. "
-----
It moves that box out about 10mm to line up wit the standard shaft . His is a copy of my plate I believe .Link to my old web site on the install .
http://www.geocities.com/rota_zuk/Suzuk ... rsteer.htm
Chris
-----
"I have a Cressida power steering box in my zook, and its a pretty nice install. "
-----
It moves that box out about 10mm to line up wit the standard shaft . His is a copy of my plate I believe .Link to my old web site on the install .
http://www.geocities.com/rota_zuk/Suzuk ... rsteer.htm
Chris
Ah ok. I wasn't sure which box it was for. Is the cressida box a more powerful box than the vit one, as in turning force? Or is the force determined by the pump? I find my vit setup one a bit lacking at times but its intermittent making me think there might be an issue with my box.
Sierra
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
x2Hybrid wrote:Ah ok. I wasn't sure which box it was for. Is the cressida box a more powerful box than the vit one, as in turning force? Or is the force determined by the pump? I find my vit setup one a bit lacking at times but its intermittent making me think there might be an issue with my box.
i find my vit set up is the same but i was thinking pump
michael
The Cressida box seems powerfull enough. I'm using a Vitara pump. I have beadlocked simexs and a front lockright and don't have too many issues. Having said that I haven't driven vit p/s for any length of time, so couldn't really compare. If you believe the Rocky Road website the Toyota setup is stronger.Hybrid wrote:Ah ok. I wasn't sure which box it was for. Is the cressida box a more powerful box than the vit one, as in turning force? Or is the force determined by the pump? I find my vit setup one a bit lacking at times but its intermittent making me think there might be an issue with my box.
If you shim the pressure releif valve in the pump you should be able to up the pressure and get some more grunt out of your current setup
Yes, as above, you just use this plate and don't need a wedge. The stock steering shaft then bolts up without needing the length changing or any extra uni's etc.neil_se wrote:Price please Ben Does the plate move the box out enough to use the standard steering column and rag joint, or do you need an angled wedge?
I'll look into the price again - it's been a couple of years since I made some. I would need to make a few to make it worthwhile, so maybe PM me if you're interested.
Ben
WWW.ZUKPARTS.COM - Quality Suzuki Off-road Parts - 1600 Adaptor kits - Vitara Power Steering adaptor kits - Disc brake kits - Heavy Duty Transfer case arms & more
adaptor plate
hi just seen you adapter for the cressida. i'm keen so can you please let me know a price for one and to be sent to 2905, A.C.T Australia
thanks
thanks
cheer up emo kid
Cressida box is geared strongly in my opinion as my mate had one not connected to his p/s pump and i compared to my vit box with no pump connnected and you can tell the difference in gearing. Only my experience.
Hardcore Wheelin' www.ozwheelers.net
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests