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Veg oil users, Cottonseed, Canola or Sunflower?
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Veg oil users, Cottonseed, Canola or Sunflower?
Trying to get a price on buying un-used oil to possibly run in my diesel Rocky, out of the 3 oils above, does it matter which you use? Veg oil is veg oil right? And if one day I try and use waste oil, does it matter if its not veg oil? ie, animal fat?
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
Damn straight
Paid $1.71/L for diesel Wednesday
I found a supplier that can deliver a 1000L pallecon (?) to my door. I can choose from the above 3 blends, and am waiting to hear back on price.\
Knowing my luck though, if I bought 1000L of veg oil the price of crude would plummet and diesel would drop back under $1/L
Paid $1.71/L for diesel Wednesday
I found a supplier that can deliver a 1000L pallecon (?) to my door. I can choose from the above 3 blends, and am waiting to hear back on price.\
Knowing my luck though, if I bought 1000L of veg oil the price of crude would plummet and diesel would drop back under $1/L
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
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What is the cost per ltrRockyF75 wrote:Damn straight
Paid $1.71/L for diesel Wednesday
I found a supplier that can deliver a 1000L pallecon (?) to my door. I can choose from the above 3 blends, and am waiting to hear back on price.\
Knowing my luck though, if I bought 1000L of veg oil the price of crude would plummet and diesel would drop back under $1/L
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Don't know yet, waiting to hear back. I'm not getting my hopes up, last place inquired it was just over $2/L. But that was in 20L drums, so not really bulk.longlux wrote:
What is the cost per ltr
No worries, anytime he wants to come over here and collect, I'll be more than happy to give him whats owing to himHotFourOk wrote:Don't forget to pay your excise per litre to lil' Kevvy Rudd
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
Choice of oil might depend on which one smells best. I got a mate who runs his diesel tojo on old fish & chip shop oil - every time he starts his ute, the whole yard smells of fish & chips. See which one you like the smell of best - if you buy 2000 litres and it stinks, you're buggered.
Also, look in the supermarkets and find which one has the most energy (kilojoules) per litre. If its the same price, then you're getting more energy for your money - more power or economy.
I think all he does to his oil is filter it, so the bits of batter don't clog his fuel filters - I don't think any engine conversion is needed.
Easy to try - just fill a 1 liter can, join it up to your filter intake, bleed it, and see if it runs. That way, if it doesn't, you don't have to empty the whole tank. Maybe try a 30/70 oil/diesel mix first. If that works, make it a bit stronger and try it again.
PS - if you've got a really nice motor, and don't want to risk buggering it, maybe try all this on a mates old banger first - get him really pissed and make him think it was all his idea, and there's no comebacks either.
Mike.
Also, look in the supermarkets and find which one has the most energy (kilojoules) per litre. If its the same price, then you're getting more energy for your money - more power or economy.
I think all he does to his oil is filter it, so the bits of batter don't clog his fuel filters - I don't think any engine conversion is needed.
Easy to try - just fill a 1 liter can, join it up to your filter intake, bleed it, and see if it runs. That way, if it doesn't, you don't have to empty the whole tank. Maybe try a 30/70 oil/diesel mix first. If that works, make it a bit stronger and try it again.
PS - if you've got a really nice motor, and don't want to risk buggering it, maybe try all this on a mates old banger first - get him really pissed and make him think it was all his idea, and there's no comebacks either.
Mike.
in terms of running different lines, its because the older rubber lines would perish with the bio running thru it.
filters? you will clog up the first couple with all the gunk that will get flushed out running bio fuels, so prehaps its just that he went thru a cpl quickly? or anticipated it and ran a bigger filter to avoid the first cpl of changes
filters? you will clog up the first couple with all the gunk that will get flushed out running bio fuels, so prehaps its just that he went thru a cpl quickly? or anticipated it and ran a bigger filter to avoid the first cpl of changes
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
But... aren't you meant to pay an excise on whatever fuel is running your car?RED60 wrote:You pay excise on biodiesel but not straight vege oil....HotFourOk wrote:Don't forget to pay your excise per litre to lil' Kevvy Rudd
At the end of the day, is it legal to run vege oil? I thought it wasn't.
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
so is avgas but you see all the ricers running thatHotFourOk wrote:But... aren't you meant to pay an excise on whatever fuel is running your car?RED60 wrote:You pay excise on biodiesel but not straight vege oil....HotFourOk wrote:Don't forget to pay your excise per litre to lil' Kevvy Rudd
At the end of the day, is it legal to run vege oil? I thought it wasn't.
[color=green]Vote Earth[/color]
I was thinking about this the other day.
Do the vehicles run as well on the oil as they do on diesel?
I was wondering if the thicker viscosity of the oil effected its ability to spray evenly through the injectors? as this would effect how well it burns.
also anyone know the difference in energy between the oil and the diesel? as not only does the price per liter matter but also the fuel ecconomy you get with the oil.
very interesting idea, with the number of k's i do i could easily buy it at 1000 liter lots?
Do the vehicles run as well on the oil as they do on diesel?
I was wondering if the thicker viscosity of the oil effected its ability to spray evenly through the injectors? as this would effect how well it burns.
also anyone know the difference in energy between the oil and the diesel? as not only does the price per liter matter but also the fuel ecconomy you get with the oil.
very interesting idea, with the number of k's i do i could easily buy it at 1000 liter lots?
it will never in this lifetime get below $1.50ltr for diesel again.RockyF75 wrote:Knowing my luck though, if I bought 1000L of veg oil the price of crude would plummet and diesel would drop back under $1/L
Wait for the addition of some bullchit "Carbon Credit" tax or whatever it is of 20cpl to go on too...
Cant fukin wait.
so... for 20ltrs of oil, do you get 20ltrs of fuel to use in your truck? or is it you only get 10ltrs. ?? if so, seems lot of work for the effort unless you can do the 1000ltrs gig.RockyF75 wrote:But that was in 20L drums, so not really bulk.
In theory you can pour it straight in and away you go.bogged wrote:so... for 20ltrs of oil, do you get 20ltrs of fuel to use in your truck? or is it you only get 10ltrs. ?? if so, seems lot of work for the effort unless you can do the 1000ltrs gig.
In terms of how much energy you get, according to http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_yield2.html the calorific value (ie energy) in diesel is 38.3 megajoules/litre, for canola oil it's 36.9 megajoules/litre. So if the canola oil is 6% cheaper than the diesel then you are breaking even in terms of cost per kilometre. That's leaving issues of tuning out of it.
There is heaps of info out there on this. I would have thought that the ideal compression ratios could be a little different and this would affect the overall economy with canola oil vs diesel. But there are people out there who will be able to answer that one for sure.
I would be willing to give it a go in an old diesel rig, especially at a 20:80 mix or something. I would try it with a smaller amount first.
This is not legal advice.
I think he is going to run the pure vege oil (whether straight or a mix of oil/diesel, rather than convert the oil to Biodiesel, which is I think what you meant.bogged wrote:so... for 20ltrs of oil, do you get 20ltrs of fuel to use in your truck? or is it you only get 10ltrs. ?? if so, seems lot of work for the effort unless you can do the 1000ltrs gig.RockyF75 wrote:But that was in 20L drums, so not really bulk.
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
ah ok, answers a lotHotFourOk wrote:I think he is going to run the pure vege oil (whether straight or a mix of oil/diesel, rather than convert the oil to Biodiesel, which is I think what you meant.
this is what Im wondering.thehanko wrote:anyone know how high the ratio can go? casue if your only substituting 20% then any saving has to be divided by 5, which means its not worth the stuffing around and having to buy 1000L at a time...
I've used the pump bio from Ouyen once, no issues..
The bio you get at the pump is only about 10% oil, i think. Rest is mixed in with dino diesel or some crap.
Ideally i want to run straight veg oil, but of course that depends on a few things like will it gell up on me in winter, will it clog my injectors, etc. This aint something I'll just do overnight. But atm, wanted to know if there's any real difference in the oils, so I can get a price. In the end I just asked them for the price of each of the three. Guess I'll find out on Monday.
I've got an old diesel engine, just need to pull out the bellhousing and starter off another wreck I've got, and I'll let that run for a bit on straight oil to see what happens. But as mentioned, lots of people have done it, even some off this board. Can't be too bad for the engine but I'm paranoid, cause my current engine is grouse
If I have to PAY for the oil, then its really not worth the hassle running a 50/50 or leaner mix of oil/diesel. If/when I can get a reliable source of free, used oil, and a means to filter it reasonably quickly, then I'll prolly run 50/50 just for the ease of not having to pre-heat the oil.
Ideally i want to run straight veg oil, but of course that depends on a few things like will it gell up on me in winter, will it clog my injectors, etc. This aint something I'll just do overnight. But atm, wanted to know if there's any real difference in the oils, so I can get a price. In the end I just asked them for the price of each of the three. Guess I'll find out on Monday.
I've got an old diesel engine, just need to pull out the bellhousing and starter off another wreck I've got, and I'll let that run for a bit on straight oil to see what happens. But as mentioned, lots of people have done it, even some off this board. Can't be too bad for the engine but I'm paranoid, cause my current engine is grouse
If I have to PAY for the oil, then its really not worth the hassle running a 50/50 or leaner mix of oil/diesel. If/when I can get a reliable source of free, used oil, and a means to filter it reasonably quickly, then I'll prolly run 50/50 just for the ease of not having to pre-heat the oil.
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
There is heaps of info on the net about this. If you wish to run straight veg oil you _may_ need to add a fuel heater into your system to ensure the viscosity is OK for your injector pump & injectors. If looking at using used oil you will need to peform some processing to ensure reliability. The upside is you'll never need to buy soap again
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I found the journettoforever website one of THE best on the web. It has info on SVO, WVO etc. There are companies OS that sell bolt in kits so that you can run straight vegetable oil (SVO).
- You probably should run a fuel heater to keep the viscosity in order
- You will most likely have to replace the rubber sections of fuel line in your car, as the veggie oil will eat it.
- Buy a 24 pack of fuel filters, the SVO/WVO will give your fuel system a serious clean out.
Stick it to the man. Save the icebergs.
Coxy
- You probably should run a fuel heater to keep the viscosity in order
- You will most likely have to replace the rubber sections of fuel line in your car, as the veggie oil will eat it.
- Buy a 24 pack of fuel filters, the SVO/WVO will give your fuel system a serious clean out.
Stick it to the man. Save the icebergs.
Coxy
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I have run 50/50 WVO/diesel in my surf I didn't notice any difference to starting or running.
Had a friend who used 2 tanks started on diesel got the engine to running temp then switched to WVO then back to diesel about 3 km before shutting down.
He did a lot of Km's & never had any problems.
I was getting into it till someone swiped my source of WVO.
Had a friend who used 2 tanks started on diesel got the engine to running temp then switched to WVO then back to diesel about 3 km before shutting down.
He did a lot of Km's & never had any problems.
I was getting into it till someone swiped my source of WVO.
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Destroying our forests one Take 5 at a time.
Every time you do a Take 5 an Orangutan cries.
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As far as running SVO(straight veg oil) these sites are good for info-
http://www.frybrid.com/test.htm
http://www.greasecar.com/forum.cfm
A bit of clever engineering can be done to make these systems work.
Also the veg oil not only should be filtered but also dewatered which is done by boiling the water content out of it.
http://www.frybrid.com/test.htm
http://www.greasecar.com/forum.cfm
A bit of clever engineering can be done to make these systems work.
Also the veg oil not only should be filtered but also dewatered which is done by boiling the water content out of it.
http://www.dirtcomp.com.au/
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