Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
WHen it happened to mine I had a pile of bits very similar to yours. The valves were fine and hadn't hit the pistons.
Otherwise....... 1UZ?
I don't know...that kind of damage usually requires the valves to make contact with the pistons. How else are you going to make mince out of metal?
The heads themselves may still be ok but you may need to replace all the valvetrain/rocker gear. Get it checked out by a good mechanic to see where you stand.
Yea mine was a 4D56. I had piccies here but they don't seem to be working.
I took the head off mine. I got a tested replacememnt head for $250 which came with all the bits I needed that had smashed except the camshaft but mine was ok.
I replaced the head on mine for another issue (cracked) but got the valves resurfaced and reused them all ($60) at engine shop.
The 2.5 will typically smash rocker gear rather than damage valves and pistons but in this case I could be wrong. I know it doesn't make sense but thats just what happens.
It was easy enough to pull the head off, all the exhaust and turbo and injector pump can be left in place, just undo all the bolts on the exhaust and lift the head around them.
I had never had a head off before but just followed the Haynes manual.
i was speaking to a mate today and he said i might be lucky if i just replace the rocker gear and then turn the engine by hand. if it doesnt hit anything and turns over a few revolutions then i should be able to turn the key and it should start?
does this sound correct?
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
Yes. You will need to replace the camshaft bearing journals(?) as thats what the rockers thread into and will probably be cracked and stripped.
There is one camshaft cap that is different that goes at the back (I think) it has a tiny oil feed hole that feeds oil to the rocker gear.
Once turning by hand before you put it all back together a quick compression test through the injector holes would give you a good idea. when taking out injectors make sure you use a long socket to unto the entire injector, not just the first nut as I did and had a quick 'inside of injector' training.....
i had a quick hunt around just now and the only place that had anything wanted $75 each for the rockers and $50 for the caps. the last one is fine but the other 4 (3 in the middle and one at the front) are stuffed.
il try some more places tomorrow to see if i can get any better prices.
im wondering why only 4 of the rockers are broken and not all 8
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
Can't help as to why only 4 of the rockers are broken but are they inlet or exhaust and which cylinders are the broken ones?
Mine never broke rockers, only the caps. It had broken the small balancing shaft timing belt and the cambelt picked it up and jumped teeth. So yours *may* be more serious. But I guess you can't do much until you get new rockers.
I'd hate for you to spend $350 on something that doesn't fix it....
thats what mine did too,
i didnt know about the balance shaft belt and i looked at the top one and thought it was fine so i didnt do anything when i got the paj.
im not sure if its the exhaust or inlet ones that are broken but its all 4 of either one. im not sure how to see what ones they were.
is there any difference between the two?
i hope i can find some cheaper tomorrow
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
I got my 4D56 rebuilt at Penrith Engine Services, give them a call they might be able to help out. They where able to source a brand new crank for mine pretty cheap
The furtherest forward valve is the exhaust and then every second one but as far as I know the rockers are the same. As you have removed yours I guess you might not remember whcih ones were broken?
NJV6 wrote:The furtherest forward valve is the exhaust and then every second one but as far as I know the rockers are the same. As you have removed yours I guess you might not remember whcih ones were broken?
nah, it was a bit of a mess under there...
i just started picking bits out and swearing
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
NJV6 wrote:The furtherest forward valve is the exhaust and then every second one but as far as I know the rockers are the same. As you have removed yours I guess you might not remember whcih ones were broken?
nah, it was a bit of a mess under there...
i just started picking bits out and swearing
Good luck getting ALL the tinylittle pieces out of the whole motor, your going to need it.
NJV6 wrote:The furtherest forward valve is the exhaust and then every second one but as far as I know the rockers are the same. As you have removed yours I guess you might not remember whcih ones were broken?
nah, it was a bit of a mess under there...
i just started picking bits out and swearing
Good luck getting ALL the tinylittle pieces out of the whole motor, your going to need it.
any tips on how to do it?
thanks for everyones help so far
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
Most engines we've delt with that have had some sort of failure are either too far gone and are replaced or are completely pulled down, cleaned, checked and honed before being rebuilt.
Either option I don't think you'll like, but you could be lucky.
Could go bush mechanic on its b1tch ass. Maybe take the sump off and wash it out with kerosine or something.
NJV6 wrote:The furtherest forward valve is the exhaust and then every second one but as far as I know the rockers are the same. As you have removed yours I guess you might not remember whcih ones were broken?
found out that they are marked "e" and "i"
all the inlet ones on mine are broken, the exhaust ones are fine
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
Correct me if this is not the case here as i know nothing about the 4d56 head, but most heads have the cam tunnel caps tensioned in the factory then tunnel bored.
Each head has its matched set of cam tunnel caps (Just like main or b\end caps) so getting replacemnt caps off another head will not be ideal (caps might not line up with the tunnel in the head at all). Only way I can see it working is taking the head off, getting replacement caps, getting your machining shop to cut down the mating facing and re-tunnel bore it.
Or just get a full replacement head (the way I would go about it)
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ftopic139176.php]TEZAS ZOOK[/url] 1992 WT in progress - 1.6efi, 2"BL, 31s
t_e_z_a wrote:Correct me if this is not the case here as i know nothing about the 4d56 head, but most heads have the cam tunnel caps tensioned in the factory then tunnel bored.
Each head has its matched set of cam tunnel caps (Just like main or b\end caps) so getting replacemnt caps off another head will not be ideal (caps might not line up with the tunnel in the head at all). Only way I can see it working is taking the head off, getting replacement caps, getting your machining shop to cut down the mating facing and re-tunnel bore it.
Or just get a full replacement head (the way I would go about it)
dont tell me that
Banzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
t_e_z_a wrote:Correct me if this is not the case here as i know nothing about the 4d56 head, but most heads have the cam tunnel caps tensioned in the factory then tunnel bored.
Each head has its matched set of cam tunnel caps (Just like main or b\end caps) so getting replacemnt caps off another head will not be ideal (caps might not line up with the tunnel in the head at all). Only way I can see it working is taking the head off, getting replacement caps, getting your machining shop to cut down the mating facing and re-tunnel bore it.
Or just get a full replacement head (the way I would go about it)
dont tell me that
Sorry lol
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ftopic139176.php]TEZAS ZOOK[/url] 1992 WT in progress - 1.6efi, 2"BL, 31s
