power steer

Post by **St Jimmy** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:46 pm

and yes i haved searched
Q] I am putting a vit, power steering set up in the
bitch and was wondering how you go about it
with out cutting the steering shaft

As all welding has to be xrayed to comply
to nsw standards Any help will be appreciated
Regards
B,59

Post by **11_evl** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:09 pm

i dont think any of the vit conversions have cut steering shafts!!
my box is way forward and i didnt cut/ weld anything

Post by **nicbeer** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:36 pm

intersted also.

Btw - I will be putting up a EOI very soon to get some of the vit>sierra steering box wedges made up.

Only thing i will need is a zooker who may have a vit box and willing to get bubs to use the sierra for template for few hours sometime (brissie i think)

Are you going to use the vit pitman arm also.

Post by **St Jimmy** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:41 pm

nicbeer wrote:intersted also.

Are you going to use the vit pitman arm also.

Yes the zuwharrie site told me to lower the bolt holes by half inch
or so.
Regards
B,59

Post by **Spike_Sierra** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:46 pm

i just installed vit power steer with bazooked style adapter plate and y21 tarago arm yesterday. i will post some pics of the install when i can get the camera back.

i think i am going to flip the standard steering linkage back to front so the rag joint is up near the firewall the the uni at the other end. If this doesnt work i might try it with two unis. Unsure of length atm...

Post by **Dee** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:26 pm

nicbeer wrote:Only thing i will need is a zooker who may have a vit box and willing to get bubs to use the sierra for template for few hours sometime (brissie i think)

will the wedge be for mounting the box by drilling the chassis & welding in crush tubes, or will it be a bolt on "adapter" plate style?

If the bolt on type, I'll be interested, and If no-one else in bris is available, I have vit box sitting here in the shed ready to go in, standard vit arm is still bolted to it, plus I have one of the lowrangeoffroad drop vit-to-sierra arms sitting here in a box also.

Post by **nicbeer** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:47 pm

Bolt on.

basically aiming to be same as the petroworks one but for RHD.

Spike, which one did u use. flat plate one? did u have to move the rad mount at all.

Post by **St Jimmy** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:55 pm

nicbeer wrote:Bolt on.

basically aiming to be same as the petroworks one but for RHD.

Spike, which one did u use. flat plate one? did u have to move the rad mount at all.

So how long before they are on the market.
And how much

Post by **Hybrid** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:24 pm

I didn't do any cutting or welding of the steering shaft itself. Basically to get the shaft the right length I gave it a tap with a hammer and lump of wood to partly collaps the length. Theres no need to drill out the nylon plugs as some do to get it shorter. I wasn't happy with the rag joint so I put a second uni in. I got it from the wreckers. I cut the splined section off my knackered steering box. This made for a splined adapter shaft. So now I have a uni top and bottom of the steering shaft.

Post by **Spike_Sierra** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:43 pm

nicbeer wrote: Spike, which one did u use. flat plate one? did u have to move the rad mount at all.

i havnt remounted the radiator yet, but im assuming i would have to make some minor adjustments to the mounts, shouldnt be to difficult.

hybrid, i have a NT LWB and it doesnt seem to have a collapsable shaft, did these come in WT or coilys?

Post by **just cruizin'** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:02 pm

I have a Vit box and a bare chassis and am on the north side of Brissy, I know Bubs is south side but closer then the coast. Actually I have the front section of a chassis too that i could take to him, even easier. By the way anyone want some 1.3lt chassis brackets to convert from 1.0lt to 1.3.

Post by **Hybrid** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 6:23 pm

Spike_Sierra wrote: hybrid, i have a NT LWB and it doesnt seem to have a collapsable shaft, did these come in WT or coilys?

Now you mention it I did read something about the non collapsable shafts. I'm not sure what they specifically came off but I have 2 zuks, one an 88 and one a 91 and both have collapsable shafts.

Post by **Spike_Sierra** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 6:29 pm

might have to do a swap with my brothers WT..mine should fit fine... thanks for the info.

Post by **NIK** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:51 pm

Boner our models didnt come with a colapsible shaft, mine cost $80 from bero wreckers. Get everything set then drill out the plastic pins in the shaft and knock it on the end to get the right length.. yes Im still talking steering shafts

Nik

Post by **St Jimmy** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:10 pm

NIK wrote:Boner our models didnt come with a colapsible shaft, mine cost $80 from bero wreckers. Get everything set then drill out the plastic pins in the shaft and knock it on the end to get the right length.. yes Im still talking steering shafts
Nik

Sure your talking about the steering shaft

thanks for that will ring them tomorrow
B 59

Post by **nicbeer** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:48 pm

just cruizin' wrote:I have a Vit box and a bare chassis and am on the north side of Brissy, I know Bubs is south side but closer then the coast. Actually I have the front section of a chassis too that i could take to him, even easier. By the way anyone want some 1.3lt chassis brackets to convert from 1.0lt to 1.3.

oks. super. i will do up the EOI next couple days then. Thanks for the offer too.

Price about 100 bux have been told. so bout equal to the toy box plate or from US. I am not sure if bolts will come with it but u can source easy urself.

Post by **Hybrid** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:18 am

NIK wrote:Get everything set then drill out the plastic pins in the shaft and knock it on the end to get the right length..
Nik

\

There's really no need to drill out the pins. Just mark the length you need with chalk on the smaller diam part of the shaft and give it some solid taps with a mallet. It keeps it tight and you dont end up with a slip joint.

Post by **NIK** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:27 pm

Its still dont dont worry, I went to far and had wd40 big vice and big hammer to slide it backout again

Nik

Post by **ofr57** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:14 pm

nicbeer wrote:
just cruizin' wrote:I have a Vit box and a bare chassis and am on the north side of Brissy, I know Bubs is south side but closer then the coast. Actually I have the front section of a chassis too that i could take to him, even easier. By the way anyone want some 1.3lt chassis brackets to convert from 1.0lt to 1.3.
oks. super. i will do up the EOI next couple days then. Thanks for the offer too.

Price about 100 bux have been told. so bout equal to the toy box plate or from US. I am not sure if bolts will come with it but u can source easy urself.

if bubs does an adapter plate I'll be down for one
haven't got a box yet but I'm not bothering putting Pw steering in until i change the motor

Post by **nicbeer** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:36 pm

anyone done the conversion. and how much if at all did u have to mod the mounts for the rad.

Post by **Hybrid** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:54 pm

A lot of the guys talk about just spacing the radiator bracket out 2 inch on the drivers side and in 2 inches on the passenger side. I ran it like this but had to remove my rad shroud or the fan would hit. With the 1.6 I needed all the cooling I could get so I cut the bottom off the driver side rad bracket and welded a brace to it. This then bolts to the body just on the inside of the head light. Now the rad sits in its original position and I'm running the rad shroud again.

Post by **Dee** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:48 pm

With this adapter mount, if moving the box down slightly to help vit pitman arm clear chassis, would it be possible to also relocate the box foward slightly too? IE as far foward as possible without having to cut out the crossmember of course, to allow for those who are running RUF or redrilled perches. I think 35mm (full ruf) is as far foward as the front diff can go without bad foulding of the drag link & tie rod, but the box doesnt nessecarily have to go this far, any distance gained would help in preventing the pitman arm/draglink joint bending the tie rod under full compression.

I'm not sure if it can be done or not, or how far it can actually go foward before it hits crossmember... Just a thought..

Post by **nicbeer** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 2:07 pm

not sure on that. would be up to bubs i guess and who ever takes the bits up for fitting/testing. I am guessing this may be just-cruisin

Post by **Dee** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 2:58 pm

Well if it had no ill effects on conversions running the diff in standard position I think it would be beneficial. I guess we'll have to wait and see how far the box can go foward...

Just cruizin', does your chassis have the stock steering box still bolted to it, as it may pay to get before & after measurement of the shaft location & pitman arm/drag link joint, from a fixed point on the chassis, that way people with RUF etc can determine whether this adapter plate will be viable or not for them?

I'm sure there would be quite a few on here running their diff slightly foward, that may want to do a p/s conv one day?

Post by **want33s** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:24 pm

Dee wrote:With this adapter mount, if moving the box down slightly to help vit pitman arm clear chassis, would it be possible to also relocate the box foward slightly too? IE as far foward as possible without having to cut out the crossmember of course, to allow for those who are running RUF or redrilled perches. I think 35mm (full ruf) is as far foward as the front diff can go without bad foulding of the drag link & tie rod, but the box doesnt nessecarily have to go this far, any distance gained would help in preventing the pitman arm/draglink joint bending the tie rod under full compression.

I'm not sure if it can be done or not, or how far it can actually go foward before it hits crossmember... Just a thought..

Good thinking.. I'd be keen on one too if it mounts the box further forward. I don't really need P.S but would like more clearance on the back of the pitman arm to the tie rod.

Post by **nicbeer** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:12 pm

good ideas guys.

Any measurements the better.

I am running mine about 10-20mm fwd too.

Post by **jazuki** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:32 pm

I've just done this conversion , i made the adaptor out of a piece of 25mm steel and milled it into a wedge ( a piece of 30mm would be better) .
I had to move the radiator over about 35mm . I just chopped the mount off the passenger side chassis rail shortened it and re welded , and on the drivers side side i just extended the original mount .

modified drivers side mount

sorry about the blurry photo

Post by **nicbeer** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:48 pm

Do u have access to make more of them?? Looks sweet

Thanks for the photos. Do you know roughly the angle the milling was on?

Also is it possible not to move the rad? just notch the mount.

Thanks much

Post by **jazuki** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 7:29 pm

I borrowed a friends mill and it took me around 4-5 hours (yea i know im slow) so im not i any rush to make more of them But i will ask him if he will let me use it again.
I don't know the angle but it starts at 25mm and goes to 8mm but like i said this isn't quite enough if you want it exactly parallel with the chassis .
The radiator mount needs to either have a spacer made (this could be as simple as a piece of 35mm box with 4 holes in it ), the mount on the chassis extended or the radiator mount extended its not to hard either way .
I m also using the standard pitman arm atm , and i have shifted the box approximatly 10-15mm forward so i can redrill the spring perches in the near future .

Post by **just cruizin'** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 7:29 pm

guys I won't get a chance to look at this weekend as I'm going away. Though I'm home from work on Tuesday on baby sitting duties so I might take some measurements and post some pics of what I do.

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