Gday guys,
currently in the process of the appluase swap as my current motor lost cylinder 2......... will find out why when i strip it down but for now i dont care as its stuffed and spitting oil out the exhaust mani!
anyway
with the applause engine i have read mixed things about the intake manifold. MM states that you should not use it and yet AJ used ther appluse one when he did the swap and hadd no problems. It would be easier to leave the applause one on but i was just wondering what the problem with it is?
also the new mototr didnt come with dizzy so i will be swapping that over but i have no idea how i know if i put it on right. all i know is that i will be replacing the rotor and also the seal. What do i need to do to ensire it is on right with the timing?
also any other pionts i should note? i know i need to swap sump and pick up and pumps etc....
thanks
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Applause Engine Conversion
Moderator: Tiny
Applause Engine Conversion
80 Series 4.2TD:
4" Lift on 35's, F+R Air Lockers, F+R Barwork, Sliders, Warn Hi-Mount
4" Lift on 35's, F+R Air Lockers, F+R Barwork, Sliders, Warn Hi-Mount
The Feroza intake manifold has an air bleed from the manifold to the radiator top to prevent air bubbles restricting coolant flow - the applause doesn't.
Both fit and do the job, but cooling isn't the Feroza's strong suit so I'd prefer not to take the risk.
As per dissy - in theory it only goes in one way correctly, but I have seen one forced in 180 degrees out of wack so its not idiot proof.
To do it correctly No. 1 cylinder needs to be at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke ( No. 1 cylinders intake and exhaust valves are not being depressed ) and then align the rotor to point in the general direction of the number 1 ignition terminal on the cap
This ensures the dissy isn't 180 degree out. Done correctly, the dissy should push in relatively easily, rotate the rotor a little and you will feel it drop into the slot on the cams end.
Tighten the two bolts evenly and it will slip past the "O" ring without much effort.
This isn't too hard in the car but very easy with he motor out.
Water pump is different, pulleys may be different, water discharge from block, throttle body may be different ( switches only - different plug so easy to spot.), sump and pickup. All in all just use your Feroza bits where the Applause ones are wrong.
Both fit and do the job, but cooling isn't the Feroza's strong suit so I'd prefer not to take the risk.
As per dissy - in theory it only goes in one way correctly, but I have seen one forced in 180 degrees out of wack so its not idiot proof.
To do it correctly No. 1 cylinder needs to be at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke ( No. 1 cylinders intake and exhaust valves are not being depressed ) and then align the rotor to point in the general direction of the number 1 ignition terminal on the cap
This ensures the dissy isn't 180 degree out. Done correctly, the dissy should push in relatively easily, rotate the rotor a little and you will feel it drop into the slot on the cams end.
Tighten the two bolts evenly and it will slip past the "O" ring without much effort.
This isn't too hard in the car but very easy with he motor out.
Water pump is different, pulleys may be different, water discharge from block, throttle body may be different ( switches only - different plug so easy to spot.), sump and pickup. All in all just use your Feroza bits where the Applause ones are wrong.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
yeh i noticed the coolant line not being there on the new intake and also a few vaccume lines were different so i swapped the intake over but not before using the new injectors 
out of interest has anyone been able to get the engine back in without taking the trans out cos im having real problems getting it all to line up!
any one in the sydney northern beaches area feel they want to help me out for a few coldies?
out of interest has anyone been able to get the engine back in without taking the trans out cos im having real problems getting it all to line up!
any one in the sydney northern beaches area feel they want to help me out for a few coldies?
80 Series 4.2TD:
4" Lift on 35's, F+R Air Lockers, F+R Barwork, Sliders, Warn Hi-Mount
4" Lift on 35's, F+R Air Lockers, F+R Barwork, Sliders, Warn Hi-Mount
in case there are those of you out there that wished to hear the end of this story i got the engine in but not b4 taking the trans out. It was about 10000000x easier to line back up and although it cost me another $40 in trans oil it was worth it looking at the colour of the old stuff (which is weird considering i only changed in like 100 kms ago :( )
80 Series 4.2TD:
4" Lift on 35's, F+R Air Lockers, F+R Barwork, Sliders, Warn Hi-Mount
4" Lift on 35's, F+R Air Lockers, F+R Barwork, Sliders, Warn Hi-Mount
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