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31"s Body and suspension rub concerns (More Pics)

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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31"s Body and suspension rub concerns (More Pics)

Post by BOGFROG »

Hey all been on here for a bit and done plenty of bible searching so don't flame as suit @ the ready just concerned to how much body or suspension rub I can expect on an 83' SWB SJ40 NT with this set up:2" OME Dakkar spring lift 2" BL & 31x10.5x15 extreme Trekkers (Measuring in @ 32.2") on Stock F100 Rims=1+1/2" Offset & Std SPUA. Will they be hitting the guards or rubbing on springs etc...? I know I'll be flattening the seams on fire wall but Should I Add 2" Shackles as well? I Don't want to if I can help it wanna keep her low as poss! any help appreciated or any pics of similar set up @ full lock would be good just to see the proximity of the spring to tyre distance? GwagenSteve or Christover Help? maybe?
Last edited by BOGFROG on Wed Jun 11, 2008 4:50 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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ok

Post by Turbo Tonka »

hey mate ive only had wt zuks so i dont know how much help i really am....but with my old zook it was a soft top i had 2" ome,2"b/l and 50mm shackles aswell with a 31x10 and f100 8" rim,at compression at times i still drove my wheel into the firewall pretty hard with it belted at the seems.only with the wheel turned slightly tho.I also dont think that they are too high with the above lift,ive just got another zuk hard top and done the same mods....My dad used to have a 81 nt with 10rs and it never used to rub on springs at steering that i can remember...
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Post by BOGFROG »

Thanks for your help Turbo Tonka that makes me feel a little better but WT slightly different widths in diffs and my rims are 15x7's with 1+1/2" offset so not sure if this helps
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Post by Turbo Tonka »

no worries,well i know dads only had 7" rims and i reckon thats about the offset so i think you'l be right.Diffs are wider on WT,but springs are also out further too,not inline with chassis
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Post by built4thrashing »

give it a 2in BL and also move the front diff forward 20mm and it should clear the firewall with out any probl;ems
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Post by BOGFROG »

built4thrashing wrote:give it a 2in BL and also move the front diff forward 20mm and it should clear the firewall with out any probl;ems
I've fitted a 2' Body lift already how much involved in moving front forward( Just redrill perches) ? anything else I need to know?
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Post by built4thrashing »

yeh just redrill the perches. You might have to space the bumpstops a little but do that last after flexin it up with diff forward 20mm
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31"rubbing concerns

Post by BOGFROG »

thanks B4T will try that and see where we're at after that! Eventually I would like to move the rear as well & I don't mind cutting guards I would rather do that than use freaky illegal shackles anyway thanks Robb ;)
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Post by BOGFROG »

built4thrashing wrote: You might have to space the bumpstops a little but do that last after flexin it up with diff
Anyone got pics on spacing bumpstops after moving front diffs just wanna see whats been done before? I only ask cause i'm researching my whole set up before I do it (do it once do it properly I say!) Any pics of this whole set up would be great!
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Post by Gwagensteve »

You might not want to hear this BogFrog, but if you want to do it properly, you're really going to need WT diffs.

To clear a tyre that size on a NT, you're going to need HUGE rim offset - you might get by with what you have (which I get at 2" backspacing) but it's going to be close. The relationship between tyre width, height, axle location, rim offset, body lift, bumpstop spacing and cutting is a real juggling act.

Here's the problem. 31's on NT's with "normal" rim offset (lets say up to about -25 for a 7" rim) want to rub pretty much everywhere. They'll be all over the chassis, shock mount, firewall and inner guard, and touch the top the guard.

The inner guard and guard top clearance is helped with a BL, but not really anything else.

To help clear the chassis and shock mount, obviously, more offset is required. The more offset you add, the worse the contact with the firewall gets. So to fix this, you can move the axle forwards, and then the tyre gets into the front edge of the inner guard behind the headlight. Oviously bashing the firewall is also an option, but there are limits (mostly as you run out of accelerator travel)

Christover has a pretty good setup on 1.0 diffs he's been running for a long time - but he has a 2" BL, massive rim offset (about -60mm on an 8" rim :shock: his axle is well forward (I think about 1") and he runs about 1" of bumpstop spacer - but his tyres aren't as tall as yours. His guards and firewall are also heavily massaged. He does have full steering lock though. He has slightly longer shackles and OME shocks with the rubbers rearranged for a little more droop (to compensate for his bumpstop spacing)

I can vouch that it's very effective but it's rough and was a lot of trial and error. I think he'd be the first to say it's not an ideal setup, but Christover runs LJ50 diff gears in his 1.0 centres so it's a good solution for him.

If you go to WT diffs you can pretty much clear everything with only a 2" BL and a -25 rim (speedy) YOu also have the option to upgrade shafts etc in the future which you don't have now.

Just some thoughts. What you're doing has been done before and it is possible but there's lots of different ways to achieve it.

Steve.
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31's rubbing concerns

Post by BOGFROG »

Thanks Steve, I knew between you and Christover1 I would be able to get the info to help be descide on my final set up there are a lot of things to take into account for a good all round set up this helps me heaps my biggest problem is that 31" Extreme Trekkers don't come in a 9 or 9.5x15 this would be my ideal width and size of tyre, unless you go to a 16" rim then they do but not sure on diameter? I don't think they make a 30" tyre and I have my heart set on this tyre choice but will check the simex web site for sizes anyway?

I will search for christover's build up if there is such a thing and see if this helps more? Unless Christover has some pics he can share ?
fingers X'ed :?: Robb.

Ok these are my only tyre choices/options in this tread pattern but not sure on copys of such as (Silverstone)

Extreme Trekker
The Centipede

29x7.5-15" 6PR
99N
202mm / 7.95"
732mm / 28.8"

31x10.5-15" 6PR
110N
266mm / 10.5"
818mm / 32.2"

No 16' avalible unless I go JT2's

Jungle Trekker 2

31x9.5-16" 6PR
107Q
253mm / 9.7"
791mm / 31.2"
Last edited by BOGFROG on Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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rub concerns

Post by BOGFROG »

Found this may have some info could help others in my situation
sorry to use you as the benchmark Chris but this may keep the noobs at bay too?
http://winter2006.4wheelingoz.com/wi06H ... daFROG.htm
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Isn't there a centipede in a 7.50 16? A MUCH better size than a 31 10.5 for a Sierra. These have three rows of centre lugs like a 36 12.5 'pede.

Steve.
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body rub

Post by BOGFROG »

Na there's only these in a 'pede

29x7.5-15" 6PR
99N
202mm / 7.95"
732mm / 28.8"

and there not much different to what I have now!


Other wise they have a MP Trekker in a 7.5 x 16

[/img]Image

7.50-16" 8PR
113/112L
220.9mm / 8.7"
817.1mm / 32.2"

They don't look too bad @ all ,It just means I have to buy new rims!
Does anyone know if you can get sunnies in a 16" for a ZUK/F100?
and do you think this is a better choice?
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Post by Gwagensteve »

That's what I was thinking of. These are cool and a much better tyre for a Sierra IMHO.

Yes, you can get aftermarket 16" rims pretty easily, or you can use GV rims - these have a really useful offset for a sierra. Don't use V6 Vitara rims though as these have the wrong offset and will make your car too narrow.

Steve.
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Post by GRPABT1 »

A thought though may be the lack of width in those tyres, not neccesarily for grip but stability. One benifit of a 10.5 inch tyre is the width gained, especially when mounted on speedy 8 inch rims.
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Width will be fine if the correct rim offset is used.

IMHO what's gained through stability is lost through poorer drivability with the wider tyre.

Steve.
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Body rub concerns

Post by BOGFROG »

Thanks Steve I am a fan of the narrow tyre I've seen em out drive many a wide one plenty of times and these look pretty aggresive any idea on what sort of offset would be enough to clear and keep the width too? Note I will be moving my diff forward 20-22mm to clear firewall as well!
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Just use GV rims I reckon. The width will help keep the lugs off the springs as much as the offset.

Steve.
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Body rub concerns

Post by BOGFROG »

Ta Steve I'll look into them or atleast find out what offset they are and get some speedys etc... and will look at WT Diffs later down track thanks for all your help on this topic I owe ya big time ;)
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Grand Vitara 16" x 7" 5P - Straight from the goodness of the bible.

I don't think speedy do 16X6's (which would be ideal) and ROH trak II's are 25P offset - no good at all.

Speedy Desert Rat 16" x 7" 0 (offset)
King 16" x 7" -13

You want the Kings. Think they're cheap too.

7" is a touch wide for a 7.50 but you won't find anything suitable narrower unless you get 2WD factory F100 rims (5.5"?) and get the centre bore opened up, flipped and offset. A lof of stuffing around.


Steve.
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Body rub concerns

Post by BOGFROG »

Thanx again Steve Your bloods worth bottling!
This should go in the Bible don't ya think?
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Body Rub Concerns

Post by BOGFROG »

Hi all just an update on how I'm going as you know I wanted 31"s so I went to my tyre guy (Performance Tyres Lilydale) and seen Norm he was nice enough to lend me a 31"x10.5"x15 Maxxis Bighorn to try for fitment and even put it on my F100 rim for me I took it home and flexed it up and turned the wheel full lock both ways to check clearances here's how I went:

Full loch R/H Down

Image

Firewall just touched the seams but good everywhere else:

Image

Rear of tyre to spring clearance:

Image

Now turned the other way L/H down:

Image

Spring to tyre @ front clears by about 20mm as well as shocker:

Image

Behind headlight bucket has about the same Clearance:

Image

The only problem is the tyre sticks out past the flare about 2.5 inches
which you could fix with big flares no probs!

But I descided to go with these in a 30"x 9.5"x 15 instead just to be safe:

Image

They should be in this Tuesday Arvo?
Also I have my 40mm lifted OME Springs coming this week too so will
post up some pics when fitted more soon! Robb
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Post by DavePatrol »

hay how much did the maxxis trepador set u back
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Body rub concerns

Post by BOGFROG »

DavePatrol wrote:hay how much did the maxxis trepador set u back
Hey Dave they only cost me $210 fitted for 30" x 9.5" x 15"s which I
thought was pretty good as most tyres that size are around $235 and up
so pretty happy, if you live in Melbourne it's worth a trip to:

Performance Tyres 480 Maroondah Hwy Lilydale just see Norm or
Danny you can call them on 03)9735-2200
they were very helpful
and for Zuks Danny has owned one or two so can give advise there too
so give em a call good luck. Robb!
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Post by islandvitara »

ive got the maxxis trepadores as well on my nt sierra they're 31x10.5x15s cost me $260 a pop fitted. they clear my gaurds pretty good dont have too many dramas :cool:
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Post by spamwell »

30 trepadors for meee ! good tyre you will be happy
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Body Rub Concerns

Post by BOGFROG »

spamwell wrote:30 trepadors for meee ! good tyre you will be happy
Thanks spamwell I'm sure I will be everybody I've spoken to about them
recon there an awsome tyre 30"s will clear everything no probs and won't
be cop bait hanging out the guards so far but atleast I know that I can go
31"s later on if I want without too much stress!
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Post by rustyzook »

mine rub, 83nt stockman cab conversion, 2" extendard shackles and 2" bdy lift, with 30x95, get wheel spacers or harden up lol! we have raidos for a reasion you turn them up so you cant here the rubbin!
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Post by alien »

out of curiosity, what do the 30's measure??? everyone i've known to get maxxis tyres was let down when they measured 1-2" under!
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