Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
cut
cut
I cut my suzi in half on yesterday in a moment of weakness. Has anybody besides pat of 4wd monthly done anything similar if so can they put some pics for me to see the best way to finish of the back of the cab. (90 soft top) Cheers
Its a wheelbase thing
I made my lwb softy into a ute, if that helps? top part of back was made from an old damaged resin top, cut down for the shape and mounting to the back. filled in with marine ply, and aluminium bracing to support window, also from resin top. at the bottom, ute part, it is filled in wiyh aluminium braces, and more marine ply, braced back to stop load shifts. a little roll protection is built into roof, christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
Chop!
Yeah, I did it to my LWB tub. Basically what I did was welded in some supports BEFORE I cut to maintain the shape of the tub. I used 50x25 box steel along the floor and between the top rails of the tub. The there are 3 25x25 stringers that join these together. It forms a nice little frame that really stiffens up the body. Anyway, once these were in I cut the body off directly aft of the frame. Then welded flat 1.6 sheet across the back.
Here are a couple of bad pics but you get the idea of how it works.
Also look through my thread in members and you should be able to get an idea of how I did it.
Even though you have already cut yours I cant see why you couldn't make a frame up the same way if you wanted to do it that way.
Here are a couple of bad pics but you get the idea of how it works.
Also look through my thread in members and you should be able to get an idea of how I did it.
Even though you have already cut yours I cant see why you couldn't make a frame up the same way if you wanted to do it that way.
)
I have pics but u will have to wait till I use the rest of the film. Don;t know witch tub Im going to use yet. Been looking at the lwb chassie though and thinking room for twin transfer? Didn't pay for tub just took my car trailer and some beers around to a mates place and came home with it.
Its a wheelbase thing
so what is the legal issue here in vic on cut jobs?
i was thinking of cjguys beast?
could i register it ?
or does it need engineeering? the cut job that is not motor?
cheers
i was thinking of cjguys beast?
could i register it ?
or does it need engineeering? the cut job that is not motor?
cheers
1995 lwb gq patrol 2.8 litre turbo diesel.
fairly standard for now cept a mostly rebuilt motor and front diff!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
100s gxl cruiser triple locked and plenty of afetrmarket touring crap!
fairly standard for now cept a mostly rebuilt motor and front diff!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
100s gxl cruiser triple locked and plenty of afetrmarket touring crap!
Check out the Vicroads web site - there are some pretty specific rules for what they call a "cut and shut" job.
These refer to how you have to cut, and how you have to re-join panels together to make it legal.
The site also tells you what does / does not require an engineers cert for different degrees of panel work etc.
I'll have a hunt around for the direct link.
Cheers.
These refer to how you have to cut, and how you have to re-join panels together to make it legal.
The site also tells you what does / does not require an engineers cert for different degrees of panel work etc.
I'll have a hunt around for the direct link.
Cheers.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
greg
Shouldn't need certification if you follow the instructions in VSI 25.
10. BODY-CHASSIS STRUCTURAL ALTERATIONS
An Approval Certificate is required for any modification to the chassis or frame of a vehicle. An Approval Certificate is also required for modifications to the occupant compartment and panels forward of the firewall of any passenger car manufactured after 1972.
A sectionalised repair (cut and shut) carried out in accordance with VSI No. 25 is not considered to be a modification.
However, if the repair involves replacing the front section of the vehicle or a section in which the VIN is located then the vehicle's identity will have to be confirmed and you will need to contact a VASS signatory before proceeding with the repair. The damaged vehicle together with the replacement section must be available for inspection by the signatory.
thanks but coulnt find any thing specific to removing whole sections (without replacing with another) .
will ask around
will ask around
1995 lwb gq patrol 2.8 litre turbo diesel.
fairly standard for now cept a mostly rebuilt motor and front diff!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
100s gxl cruiser triple locked and plenty of afetrmarket touring crap!
fairly standard for now cept a mostly rebuilt motor and front diff!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
100s gxl cruiser triple locked and plenty of afetrmarket touring crap!
toonfish wrote:thanks but coulnt find any thing specific to removing whole sections (without replacing with another) .
will ask around
My understanding is that so long as you don't change the structural integrity of the car you will not require an engineers cert.
My understanding of what "changing the structural integrity" means is - so long as you don't change the chassis - because we are talking about cars with seperate bodies and chassis right?
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
i think if you do it from the firewall backwards it should be fine as long as you follow the standards. before the firewall, they'll need to check crumple zones and all that. you're reducing your seating capacity to two anyway so your human occupant zone would still be okay.
if you cut it off, closed it up and put a tray on, i think that would be quite acceptable. bob tails and dove tails should also be acceptable as long as wheel coverage and rear lighting regulations are followed.
i'm considering dove tailing to extend the wheelbase yet keep the suzuki-ness.
if you cut it off, closed it up and put a tray on, i think that would be quite acceptable. bob tails and dove tails should also be acceptable as long as wheel coverage and rear lighting regulations are followed.
i'm considering dove tailing to extend the wheelbase yet keep the suzuki-ness.
Both good looking rigs ... looks like you will need to do something about your rear shock mounts .. perhaps raising the upper to attach somewhere in the bottom of the new rear tub would be a good idea ... That way you can keep the shock at a good angle and still get lots of flex (and maintain stability/roll stiffness)
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Rhett wrote:I can't realy lift the top shocky mounts into the tub as I was going to put the floor right down in the centre trying to my cog low. unless I put towers coming up through it. but they would get in the way of my spare. If I ever can afford one that is.
What size and what sort of rubber you going to run ?? You really do need to do something about the length of those suckers or you will be limiting flex allot ..
I have decided to run with some tyre plugs and a compressor and not worry about a spare (to heavy and difficult to mount a 35inch spare tyre on a Zuk) So hopefully the claws are as tough as I think they are
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 47 guests