Relocating rear diff (moving it back)

Post by **GRPABT1** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 10:00 am

Hey guys/girls,

I did a bible search and it seems all the diff relocation threads are to do with the front, which I have found plenty of info thankyou. But I was wondering how hard is it to move the rear diff back in a similar fashion to the front forward by re-drilling spring plates?

By having a quick look it seems my rear shocks are already at an angle (bottom towards the rear). So I was wondering if I could swap the bottom spring plates that incorporate the bottom shock mount (left to right and right to left) spin them around and have the shock mounted in front of the diff?

Would this be a bad idea due to possible damage to the shock? Is it even possible? Also is there any other problems I may encounter?

My fuel tank is already up and out of the way thanks to a ute chop and I have extended brake lines and tailshaft spacers that were included with my calmini lift. I hope to move it back about 22mm similar to the front forward.

Thanks in advance peoples.

Post by **lay80n** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:34 am

You can swap the plates, and just redrill the perches. Will get about an inch or so extra.

Layto....

Post by **Dee** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 12:02 pm

If your only going 22mm I doubt your shocks will foul much anyway.
(if your running the style with rubber covers, if they have steel casing/protectors like ome's they may foul on tank mounts etc..

Post by **GRPABT1** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 12:18 pm

I'm running ones with rubber covers, but the already fouled on the brake line brackets before I bashed them flat so I think I'll put them in front.

I'm going to have to move my bump stops it looks and I'll get another two tail shaft spacers as I need one for the front as the spline just fell out when I moved the diff forward to where it will sit.

thanks guys

Post by **dank** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 12:34 pm

I've gone 1 inch rearwards with my rear diff. standard shock mounts...seems to be fine except for the handbrake cable mount on the diff pumpkin has dented my fuel tank. Nothing major but something to look out for. Seeing that my car is in pieces I might look at swapping the bolt plates around when I put the 808 mazda springs i got last night.

Also with my 34s the tyres were rubbing on the fuel hose guard and the rear quarter so out came the grinder. all fixed now. I'll be moving my tank up at some stage so it won't foul anymore...

Post by **VR Rodeo** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 1:26 pm

I moved mine about an inch, and found the mount sat pretty much over the top of the diff meaning the shocks would be angled either way and would rub on the diff on extension with a 35mm shock, maybe mines not as far back as yours will be, but I have ended up going for custom mounts.

Post by **GRPABT1** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 1:31 pm

Fuel hose gaurd - N/A

Rear Quarter - N/A

Fuel tanks - already raised.

Today would be the worst day to realise the batteries for my el cheapo drill are dead FFS.

Post by **GRPABT1** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 1:34 pm

VR Rodeo wrote:I moved mine about an inch, and found the mount sat pretty much over the top of the diff meaning the shocks would be angled either way and would rub on the diff on extension with a 35mm shock, maybe mines not as far back as yours will be, but I have ended up going for custom mounts.

I think atm mine is almost over the center of the diff on level ground. On compression with the diff back I think it will sit sweet and on extension I think it'll be no more angled than it is on compression now.

Post by **nicbeer** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 2:52 pm

howd u guys go with clearance to the fuel inlet cover? as mine gets close there

Post by **Dee** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 3:18 pm

nicbeer wrote:howd u guys go with clearance to the fuel inlet cover? as mine gets close there

pull it off & wire/cable tie the fuel hose back to the chassis/rear crossmember.

Post by **dank** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 4:59 pm

nicbeer wrote:howd u guys go with clearance to the fuel inlet cover? as mine gets close there

I cut mine and folded it and bashed it out of the way. turned out pretty neat...sorta lol. but clears my 34s with a 2" BL.

IMPORTANT : guys my body is off the chassis at the moment and I've just removed the fuel tank to see that the single soft brake line that runs from the chassis to the diff housing is very tight. If you are planning on moving your rear diff check this line. It may need to be extended. This is only with the sierra with the single brake line to the rear.

Post by **GRPABT1** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 6:32 pm

I have extended braided lines already (calmini are good for some things), actually have a spare one as the kit comes with four so dank if you need one then I can post it to you if you pay postage.

Post by **dank** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 6:37 pm

sweet. that would be fantastic. PM sent

Post by **VR Rodeo** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 7:11 pm

Dee wrote:
nicbeer wrote:howd u guys go with clearance to the fuel inlet cover? as mine gets close there
pull it off & wire/cable tie the fuel hose back to the chassis/rear crossmember.

x2

Post by **alien** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 7:50 pm

mines back 1" by relocating the shackle hanger all the way to the back of the chassis... that combined with the front 6" forwards makes for a far better ride on road!!!

Post by **GRPABT1** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 2:05 am

I couldn't care less about on road performance, I've got a track ready commodore for that lol no matter what the zook will never compete in that department.

Post by **alien** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 9:28 am

well of course its better offroad too =) what i was trying to say is its more balanced feeling... more-so cos the front is forward, but shifting the rear back a touch adds to wheelbase and makes it just that bit more stable on larger tyres...

Post by **GRPABT1** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 12:57 pm

That's my plan, the front forward was to clear the firewall mainly. The rear back will be for stability with the large tyres

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Relocating rear diff (moving it back)

Relocating rear diff (moving it back)

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