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HI GUYS. I'M IN THE MIDDLE OF BUILDING A WINCH CHALLENGE TRUCK AND HAVE DECIDED TO CHANGE MY DIFF OVER. NOT KNOWING MUCH ABOUT RANGIES I'M UP FOR SUGGESTIONS. I HAVE FULLY BRACED DIFFS FRONT & REAR WITH MAXI DRIVE LOCKERS AND AXIALS AND SUPPOSED TO HAVE 4'11 RATIOS. I;VE BEEN TOLD THE FRONT GQ CONVERSION IS STRAIGHT FORWARD BUT TO PUT REAR GQ IS A BIT HARDER. SOMEONE ALSO SAID THAT 80SERS REAR DIFF IS THE GO. SO IF ANYONE CAN THROW SUGGESTIONS MY WAY IT WOULD BE GREAT. CHEERS.
THANKS TO: 4DT (Skidsy), Weller Auto Electrics , Just Tinting , Tough Dog , Fourbys, RMD Fabrications ,Neilsen Smash Repairs & all family & friends.
I thought i was asking for advise , not posting a 4sale. They will be up 4sale once i have finished building this truck. What r they worth guys? Apparently they must be hard 2 find. Any how i'll let you all know when that happens. Meanwhile anymore advise would be great. CHEERS
THANKS TO: 4DT (Skidsy), Weller Auto Electrics , Just Tinting , Tough Dog , Fourbys, RMD Fabrications ,Neilsen Smash Repairs & all family & friends.
NUMB wrote:Thanks CAMO!! what was the prob with GQ rear? Is the maxi system better?
The problem with the Nissan diff is the location of the pumpkin. Being a centre-mounted diff means that the angle for the drive shaft is too great and causes vibration issues and possible premature failing of the unis and pinion bearings.
The 80 series rear lines up pretty well with the transfer output, that is why most people use the 80 series rear instead of Nissan.
NUMB wrote:Thanks CAMO!! what was the prob with GQ rear? Is the maxi system better?
The problem with the Nissan diff is the location of the pumpkin. Being a centre-mounted diff means that the angle for the drive shaft is too great and causes vibration issues and possible premature failing of the unis and pinion bearings.
The 80 series rear lines up pretty well with the transfer output, that is why most people use the 80 series rear instead of Nissan.
Yep what he said
1994 Range Rover Soft Dash, Rear ARB Locker, 33's, 2" body & Spring, custom bits
2004 Range Rover Diesel 20" wheels. My Black Beauty:-)
I'm using adjustable rear control arms to ensure that the GQ pinion flange is parallel to the TC output flange at ride height to reduce / remove vibrations.
I'm also using GQ tail shafts, as the uni's are also bigger to combat this issue.
For what I paid for both front and rear diffs, I'm having a go using the GQ diff.
I'm using adjustable rear control arms to ensure that the GQ pinion flange is parallel to the TC output flange at ride height to reduce / remove vibrations.
I'm also using GQ tail shafts, as the uni's are also bigger to combat this issue.
For what I paid for both front and rear diffs, I'm having a go using the GQ diff.
Good luck
Dave.
Have fun with the vibes
My biggest regret was taking advise from an engineer.. said rear GQ would be fine if setup right.. biggest load of crap!!
Have fun with it though Dave... fine offroad but after an hour on the highway you will get sick of it real quick
Camo
1994 Range Rover Soft Dash, Rear ARB Locker, 33's, 2" body & Spring, custom bits
2004 Range Rover Diesel 20" wheels. My Black Beauty:-)
I'm using adjustable rear control arms to ensure that the GQ pinion flange is parallel to the TC output flange at ride height to reduce / remove vibrations.
I'm also using GQ tail shafts, as the uni's are also bigger to combat this issue.
For what I paid for both front and rear diffs, I'm having a go using the GQ diff.
Good luck
Dave.
Have fun with the vibes
My biggest regret was taking advise from an engineer.. said rear GQ would be fine if setup right.. biggest load of crap!!
Have fun with it though Dave... fine offroad but after an hour on the highway you will get sick of it real quick
Camo
Camo, the difference in ratios is LESS than the variation you would get front-back in tyre diameter if you were running different brands or a couple of PSI difference in pressure. I don't doubt you experiencedd what you did, but I can't see how it was caused by the ratio difference.
I'm using adjustable rear control arms to ensure that the GQ pinion flange is parallel to the TC output flange at ride height to reduce / remove vibrations.
I'm also using GQ tail shafts, as the uni's are also bigger to combat this issue.
For what I paid for both front and rear diffs, I'm having a go using the GQ diff.
Good luck
Dave.
Have fun with the vibes
My biggest regret was taking advise from an engineer.. said rear GQ would be fine if setup right.. biggest load of crap!!
Have fun with it though Dave... fine offroad but after an hour on the highway you will get sick of it real quick
Camo
For my sake I just hope I have better luck
Either way, I'm willing to try as it is costing me not much more than my time.
Camo, the difference in ratios is LESS than the variation you would get front-back in tyre diameter if you were running different brands or a couple of PSI difference in pressure. I don't doubt you experiencedd what you did, but I can't see how it was caused by the ratio difference.
I know.. I couldn't understand it either.. normal driving was fine.. but when you put the centre diff lock in the car would start to shake after 20 meters on the tar. (brand new tyres all round)
Soon as I put the 4.11 in the rear i tried with the centre diff lock in and suprise suprise.. no shake at all!
One happy camper here .. cheap and easy fix.
time for some Pro Lockers in the next few weeks
Camo
1994 Range Rover Soft Dash, Rear ARB Locker, 33's, 2" body & Spring, custom bits
2004 Range Rover Diesel 20" wheels. My Black Beauty:-)
i still don't know why anyone would go to the effort of putting gq diffs in a rover??? no matter what you do the nissan diffs can't be built as strong a toy 60 series diffs for the same $$$. and the 60's are offset F&R!!! they are less prone to bending the front at the swivel ball like nissans, the kingpin inclination is better which makes them WAAAAAY less sensititve to castor changes (less nissan death wobbles). DAMN you can buy a WHOLE 60 series for <$500, the diff centers are interchangeable as are the lockers, the rear axles are stronger (better material and hardening process). there is SOOOOO much aftermarket stuff for them cheap!!!.
If you are going to go to the effort of a diff swap the do it properly, not just half-ar$ed. put decent mounts on the 60's diff, cut and rotate the knucles to get better shaft/pinion angles and put some good chromo bits in it!!! then wheel the beeejeesusss out of it!!! Rovers have such a good drivetrain, don't spoil it with nissan junk..
1MadEngineer wrote:i still don't know why anyone would go to the effort of putting gq diffs in a rover??? no matter what you do the nissan diffs can't be built as strong a toy 60 series diffs for the same $$$. and the 60's are offset F&R!!! they are less prone to bending the front at the swivel ball like nissans, the kingpin inclination is better which makes them WAAAAAY less sensititve to castor changes (less nissan death wobbles). DAMN you can buy a WHOLE 60 series for <$500, the diff centers are interchangeable as are the lockers, the rear axles are stronger (better material and hardening process). there is SOOOOO much aftermarket stuff for them cheap!!!.
If you are going to go to the effort of a diff swap the do it properly, not just half-ar$ed. put decent mounts on the 60's diff, cut and rotate the knucles to get better shaft/pinion angles and put some good chromo bits in it!!! then wheel the beeejeesusss out of it!!! Rovers have such a good drivetrain, don't spoil it with nissan junk..
I doubt the 60 series diffs are wide enough to fit under a rover.