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Mazda springs q's And pics*
Mazda springs q's And pics*
ok been trying the rear mazda 323 springs in the rear via trial and error.
These pics it sits tooo low. stock mazda spring, with 15mm wheelbase ext.
These pics are with mazda main. 2" mid, 2"semimid (smaller with clamps), Then mazda bottom. (cant really see, small..)
Now im getting a funny warp in the spring because of the 2" springs in the middle...
Should i just cut the main 2" spring with the loops for shackles not on the car, so it sits out more so the pivot point of the spring is off the other leaf as shown?
I confused on what to do... rises up to stock bumpstop, But does not seem to drop 'without short shocks' more then before either on a ramp up a drain canal...
OR, Sorry.. Should i have gone Mazda main, 2"main, 2"semi and chuck in a mazda one on bottom. I want to try and get it soft but with some lift...
Hard to explain.
Thanks
These pics it sits tooo low. stock mazda spring, with 15mm wheelbase ext.
These pics are with mazda main. 2" mid, 2"semimid (smaller with clamps), Then mazda bottom. (cant really see, small..)
Now im getting a funny warp in the spring because of the 2" springs in the middle...
Should i just cut the main 2" spring with the loops for shackles not on the car, so it sits out more so the pivot point of the spring is off the other leaf as shown?
I confused on what to do... rises up to stock bumpstop, But does not seem to drop 'without short shocks' more then before either on a ramp up a drain canal...
OR, Sorry.. Should i have gone Mazda main, 2"main, 2"semi and chuck in a mazda one on bottom. I want to try and get it soft but with some lift...
Hard to explain.
Thanks
Last edited by BlueSuzy on Sun Jun 29, 2008 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I am Tim
not enough springs in the pack and the leaf that sits under the main is not long enough. if the only gearing you have is transfer gears it will make this worse.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
80's years rwd mazda 323 wagons rear springs NIK...
Thats what i was thinking about the 2nd leave should be the same but isnt.
The stock pack might just have to make do...or chopup my 2"main, which i really dont wanna do because if it doesnt work, im left without a main 2"...
Moose has a mazda main, but his 2nd leave is the same length, dunno if he has played with them though...
Thats what i was thinking about the 2nd leave should be the same but isnt.
The stock pack might just have to make do...or chopup my 2"main, which i really dont wanna do because if it doesnt work, im left without a main 2"...
Moose has a mazda main, but his 2nd leave is the same length, dunno if he has played with them though...
I am Tim
yes thats another thing i was thinking for a quick fix, but id wouldent work out to be ok, at a closer look.
If i just went stock 323 rears and stock rears up front, she'd be low but would have alot of drop right? Might look funny also.
Would that be ok? i would still like life but if its not possible i might not worry bout it..
If i just went stock 323 rears and stock rears up front, she'd be low but would have alot of drop right? Might look funny also.
Would that be ok? i would still like life but if its not possible i might not worry bout it..
I am Tim
Posts: 3825
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 8:42 pm
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 8:42 pm
Location: in the sky , its a bird , its a plane ! No its super MOOSE !!!
oh dear , the old spring saga continues !!!
i ran the 2nd mazda leaf ,
then played around with combo of zook & mazda springs !!
i got it to sit at a nice hight , but after a couple of hours driving/playing , the springs would soften , & bottom out too easy !
So i had them reset 50mm !!
i ran the 2nd mazda leaf ,
then played around with combo of zook & mazda springs !!
i got it to sit at a nice hight , but after a couple of hours driving/playing , the springs would soften , & bottom out too easy !
So i had them reset 50mm !!
MissForbyNoob wrote:
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
Bluesuzy I've got the 808 springs in the rear of mine and it sits the diff 7mm back from stock. I've used the mazda main, secondary, then the 3rd 2inch OME rear leaf and then the fourth OME rear load spring (flat with bracket). It looks like it will sit a little lower than normal but this is what I am after.
As the others have said go the main and secondary from the 323 then build the rest up with your other springs.
As the others have said go the main and secondary from the 323 then build the rest up with your other springs.
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Play - dank's zook
Play - dank's zook
X2 - I can't see any reason why you need to be any taller than the front of your car now Bluesuzy.GRPABT1 wrote:If your tyres don't rub with stock mazda springs and rears up front them why bother going SPOA?
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I havent gone ruf yet with the standards rears , it is just 2" spring, with removed leaves, 2"body, prob 2-3" shackle...
The reason i was maybe thinking of goin spoa is because the mazda springs are flat , and with the stocker rears up front it will probably level out the car so its low with the 33"s.....
I'm just very unsure on what to do, Either lower the car, and possibly get more flex? Or keep the same height and not scrub the chassis on the odd rock etc...
Atm, my rear flexes up and just touches the guards with the stock bumps touching. My fronts dont flex as much... Just rubbs on the front behind the headlights under steering with wheels up. Front diff is 25mm forward.
Low is still ok? Just not on rocks. More stable...lots of drop.
Will end up having to change my shock mounts too asap after spring swap.
The reason i was maybe thinking of goin spoa is because the mazda springs are flat , and with the stocker rears up front it will probably level out the car so its low with the 33"s.....
I'm just very unsure on what to do, Either lower the car, and possibly get more flex? Or keep the same height and not scrub the chassis on the odd rock etc...
Atm, my rear flexes up and just touches the guards with the stock bumps touching. My fronts dont flex as much... Just rubbs on the front behind the headlights under steering with wheels up. Front diff is 25mm forward.
Low is still ok? Just not on rocks. More stable...lots of drop.
Will end up having to change my shock mounts too asap after spring swap.
I am Tim
The ( oh, hang on, 'A') problem with SPOA is that you need more spring rate than SPUA to control axle wrap. Many people think they'll run a spua spring with leaves pulled to make it flat in a SPOA application to keep the lift low. This won't work - you'll have insane axle wrap problems.
Why is a low car bad on rocks? I'd take a car with 2" of lift and a flat belly pan over a 5" lifted car ib the rocks any day. If the chassis is on the rock, the car is stable.
Steve.
Why is a low car bad on rocks? I'd take a car with 2" of lift and a flat belly pan over a 5" lifted car ib the rocks any day. If the chassis is on the rock, the car is stable.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
i have to agree with gwagensteve about having a low car with a belly pan on rocks.
a spoa car on rock just make the angles even worse! the track of your wheels need to go wider if you go spoa and are going on angles. my last car was spoa with wt diffs and very tippy even with lots of flex. the c.o.g kills you.
a spoa car on rock just make the angles even worse! the track of your wheels need to go wider if you go spoa and are going on angles. my last car was spoa with wt diffs and very tippy even with lots of flex. the c.o.g kills you.
cheer up emo kid
On lux diffs you will need bigger tyres to achieve the same diff clearance you have now SPUA on suzuki diffs.....BlueSuzy wrote:I also forgot to mention... The spoa will only be done with lux or similar diff conversion. So the weight and strength would be there too for help.
But i will do the springs this week then.
And rustyzook, shut up we are trying to help the poor guy not kill him.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
I have now made up my decision!!!!
I have the stock mazda 323 rears in the back.
I have the stock suzy sierra rears up front.
The rear shackle angle is like 1st pic,
Then front shackle angle is abit more vertical, i said abit...
Both sets of spring packs make it lower then before, Bit like the 1st pic up top, but all round.
The rear diff is drilled 35mm back = 15mm extra wheelbase
The front diff is stock rear spring location = 30mm extra wheelbase(on my springs)
I now need new longer brake lines. Yet to sort out how much longer
And then via a huge flex test (Crossing my fingers it flexes hardcore ) I will need to remount the shockmounts higher to suit the dropage. Front and back
See how we go now..
I have the stock mazda 323 rears in the back.
I have the stock suzy sierra rears up front.
The rear shackle angle is like 1st pic,
Then front shackle angle is abit more vertical, i said abit...
Both sets of spring packs make it lower then before, Bit like the 1st pic up top, but all round.
The rear diff is drilled 35mm back = 15mm extra wheelbase
The front diff is stock rear spring location = 30mm extra wheelbase(on my springs)
I now need new longer brake lines. Yet to sort out how much longer
And then via a huge flex test (Crossing my fingers it flexes hardcore ) I will need to remount the shockmounts higher to suit the dropage. Front and back
See how we go now..
I am Tim
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