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LED lights and flasher unit (idicators don't blink)
Moderator: -Scott-
LED lights and flasher unit (idicators don't blink)
Not sure if this only applys to my hilux so i will put it in general for now.
I have LED lights and apparently the electrician installed a special module (not sure if it is just resistors) to make it blink at the correct rate. Indicators are coming on but not blinking.
Could it possibly be the "module" or would it only be the flasher unit
Is there a way to test the flasher unit
I have LED lights and apparently the electrician installed a special module (not sure if it is just resistors) to make it blink at the correct rate. Indicators are coming on but not blinking.
Could it possibly be the "module" or would it only be the flasher unit
Is there a way to test the flasher unit
Kind Regards,
Brad
Brad
I had the opposite , put LED's on my GQ Dual cab and they flash really fast now , might have to look at get another flasher unit ,any idear where to get them from , do you know if Supa cheap or Repco sell them.
White SWB MAV Diesel , 2" lift, 33"tyres
&
'99 Hilux Xtra Cab, 3Lt Diesel, Turboed, 2"lift
&
'99 Hilux Xtra Cab, 3Lt Diesel, Turboed, 2"lift
Time=resistance X capacitance
ie Flash Rate = (voltage squared/wattage ) x Capacitor in the Flasher can
This why they flash faster when a bulb blows (resistance is reduced)
LEDs have no resitance so 0 X anything = 0 so time = zero
With regards to ones staying on and ones not working at all it just depends on the state of the flasher can contacts when you turn the indicator off.
ie. If you turned you blinker off last when it was in its on state (contacts closed-lights illuminated) it will remain in that state
The 'module' you refered to in your first post is a resistor - bit of a bandaid fix
Better to spend the $$$ on LED specific flasher can
edit: hope my ohms law is right or -Scott- will kick my arse
ie Flash Rate = (voltage squared/wattage ) x Capacitor in the Flasher can
This why they flash faster when a bulb blows (resistance is reduced)
LEDs have no resitance so 0 X anything = 0 so time = zero
With regards to ones staying on and ones not working at all it just depends on the state of the flasher can contacts when you turn the indicator off.
ie. If you turned you blinker off last when it was in its on state (contacts closed-lights illuminated) it will remain in that state
The 'module' you refered to in your first post is a resistor - bit of a bandaid fix
Better to spend the $$$ on LED specific flasher can
edit: hope my ohms law is right or -Scott- will kick my arse
[url=http://www.4x4masters.com.au/]Australian 4X4 Masters Series website[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
Yep it most certainly is. I'm pretty sure Hella does have a Toyota LED flasher unit. If not just do as I had to do and make a little adapter harness, only takes 2 mins.fool_injected wrote:Better to spend the $$$ on LED specific flasher can
Also just some advice with the LED flasher units, either make sure any trailer you tow also has LEDs or change the rest of your vehicles indicators with the LED replacement bulbs. LED flasher unit can only run a max of one incandescent (normal) bulb.
I learnt that the hard way
[quote="Ruffy"]P.S. woober woober is a technical term describing the audible tone emitted from harmonic air vibration.[/quote]
F/S Holden V6 auto to Mitsu kit incl exhaust for Triton conversion.
F/S Holden V6 auto to Mitsu kit incl exhaust for Triton conversion.
They are costly though ~$50 for the Hella units and can be hard to find.
Last edited by fool_injected on Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[url=http://www.4x4masters.com.au/]Australian 4X4 Masters Series website[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
Your Ohm's Law is OK, but the rest of your explanation is doing my head in.fool_injected wrote:edit: hope my ohms law is right or -Scott- will kick my arse
All the bulbs are in parallel, so losing one increases the effective resistance, so your "resistance x capacitance" theory should increase the time constant and slow the flash rate (f = 1/RC? - I think... )
However, the other way you expressed it works out OK - remove one bulb, wattage has decreased so flash rate will increase.
Bottom line - lose a globe, flash rate increases. We agree.
Somebody else can point out which one of us went wrong where.
Now you've done my head in-Scott- wrote:Your Ohm's Law is OK, but the rest of your explanation is doing my head in.fool_injected wrote:edit: hope my ohms law is right or -Scott- will kick my arse
All the bulbs are in parallel, so losing one increases the effective resistance, so your "resistance x capacitance" theory should increase the time constant and slow the flash rate (f = 1/RC? - I think... )
However, the other way you expressed it works out OK - remove one bulb, wattage has decreased so flash rate will increase.
Bottom line - lose a globe, flash rate increases. We agree.
Somebody else can point out which one of us went wrong where.
[url=http://www.4x4masters.com.au/]Australian 4X4 Masters Series website[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
No not really, both of the ones I bought were under $25, although some wanted upto $40, and were in every parts shop I went to (except for supershit)fool_injected wrote:They are costly though ~$50 for the Hella units and can be hard to find.
*EDIT* - Yes, the LED flashers do keep a constant flash rate no matter how many bulbs you run/disconnect. So basically, 'lose' a bulb and you'll only know when either you check your lights or when someone tells you.
[quote="Ruffy"]P.S. woober woober is a technical term describing the audible tone emitted from harmonic air vibration.[/quote]
F/S Holden V6 auto to Mitsu kit incl exhaust for Triton conversion.
F/S Holden V6 auto to Mitsu kit incl exhaust for Triton conversion.
No expert but ill give an explaination a go.-Scott- wrote:Your Ohm's Law is OK, but the rest of your explanation is doing my head in.fool_injected wrote:edit: hope my ohms law is right or -Scott- will kick my arse
All the bulbs are in parallel, so losing one increases the effective resistance, so your "resistance x capacitance" theory should increase the time constant and slow the flash rate (f = 1/RC? - I think... )
However, the other way you expressed it works out OK - remove one bulb, wattage has decreased so flash rate will increase.
Bottom line - lose a globe, flash rate increases. We agree.
Somebody else can point out which one of us went wrong where.
Most of the electronic load sensitive units use a transistor to 'drive' the relay coil windings. This drive transistor's base is biased through a voltage divider configuration consisting of a few fixed resistors and resistor, capacitor timing system (on the top half of the voltage divider) and on the bottom, another fixed resistor in series with the 'load', the parallel bulbs. Loose one of these bulbs, increases the resistance on the bottom of the voltage divider and hence the bais of the drive transitor's base, bringing the saturation and cutoff regions closer (on/off bias points), therefore increasing the flash rate.
Hope it makes sense to someone,
Cheers Dan
Too to follow it real close, but the gist makes sense - I understand why the RC analogy wasn't working (I don't know if that's right, but it's what I understand... )JrZook wrote:No expert but ill give an explaination a go.
Most of the electronic load sensitive units use a transistor to 'drive' the relay coil windings. This drive transistor's base is biased through a voltage divider configuration consisting of a few fixed resistors and resistor, capacitor timing system (on the top half of the voltage divider) and on the bottom, another fixed resistor in series with the 'load', the parallel bulbs. Loose one of these bulbs, increases the resistance on the bottom of the voltage divider and hence the bais of the drive transitor's base, bringing the saturation and cutoff regions closer (on/off bias points), therefore increasing the flash rate.
Hope it makes sense to someone,
Cheers Dan
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