Strongest Free Wheeling Hubs

Post by **bowtie landie** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 12:02 pm

What have OL readers found to be the strongest free wheeling hubs for GQ / GUs?

Are there aftermarket or modified hubs that are stronger than genuine nissan?

Some say the nissan auto hubs are stronger than the manual hubs - some say the opposite.

What have OL readers experienced?

Thanks

Peter K.

Post by **turbo gu** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 1:13 pm

my factory auto hubs didn't last long at all. replaced then with the factory manual hubs and they have been sweet. this in on a gu

Post by **Dee** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 2:45 pm

I think you'll find most will say auto's are weaker than manual's, & some AVM manual hubs are the way to go.

Post by **Guy** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 2:49 pm

The auto hubs are junk I busted one with an open diff and 33's was not even on the throttle much

Post by **kond** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 6:33 pm

avm are one of the wort in my experince go the genuine manual locking

Post by **twodiffs** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 6:50 pm

The genuine Nissan manual/auto hub is a safe bet too, gives you the option of engaging 4wd automatically for routine stuff or manually for anything serious.
Both Superwinch and the manual/auto hubs are my proven choices.
Heard somewhere that AVM & Superwinch are from the same factory but don't quote me on that.

Post by **jet-6** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:28 pm

Auto hubs are crap, broke my left one 1st drive with the old 35's

Post by **ozy1** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:38 pm

genuine Auto/lock hubs are no good, they fail quite easily, they arnt strong or reliable,

AVM hubs, people say they are weak, we ran them on my dads GU, twin air locked, rockhoppers, 4.88's 35 MTR's TD42T, they lasted about 5 years think, but he busted one on the weekend, we have just swapped over to genuine GQ hubs, the swap was pretty straight forward, and works a treat,

my vote goes to genuine manual freewheeling hubs,

Post by **tna racing** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:26 pm

gen manual -hub

Post by **turps** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:28 pm

I thought the auto hubs where alright. Just as long as you manually locked them. Leave in auto and they die though.

Post by **ozy1** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:12 pm

turps wrote:I thought the auto hubs where alright. Just as long as you manually locked them. Leave in auto and they die though.

my Dads one actually failed on the highway, every now and then they would just lock in on their own, 2 high doing 100km/h we had bad grinding noises, swapped these out prob solved, found they were tryin to lock at high speeds

Post by **Yom** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:46 pm

turps wrote:I thought the auto hubs where alright. Just as long as you manually locked them. Leave in auto and they die though.

There's 2 types of auto hubs.

One type is fully automatic. You've got no options. I see them mostly on the imported safaris.

The other type is auto/lock. You've got the option of automatic or locked. These came on late 93 build GQ ST and Ti trim levels and continued through to GU ST and higher trim specs. The automatic side of these hubs is what fails the most and can cause premature wear of the hub because of the locking in and out thing. A common mistake mechanics make is to grease them - doing so apparently is the first sure fire way to kill them. You can remove the auto locking mechanism from them on a sunday afternoon and theyre meant to be quite strong. But its still annoying having to get the tyre iron out to lock them in.

Thats what I know on the subject. heh.

Post by **MyGQ** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:34 am

Get Genuine Nissan Manual Locking hubs, stronger than any after market hub you can get. seen AVM's break in sand driving, think someone at AVM dropped the ball on that design.

You can geta hub from any Patrol (apart from G60) and they will fit any model (again apart from G60) so that being you can get a MQ manual hub and clutch and it will fit a GQ or GU (i know i put MQ ones on mine when i manged to stuff one up by getting mud and sand in it).

Toyota ones i have been break the factory ones, guy was going up a hill and snapped every bolt holding the front right hub on, was fun that way

Post by **1MadEngineer** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 9:41 am

bowtie landie wrote:What have OL readers found to be the strongest free wheeling hubs for GQ / GUs?

Are there aftermarket or modified hubs that are stronger than genuine nissan?

Some say the nissan auto hubs are stronger than the manual hubs - some say the opposite.

What have OL readers experienced?

Thanks

Peter K.

But i know how to strengthen them

Post by **twodiffs** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 5:32 pm

turps wrote:I thought the auto hubs where alright. Just as long as you manually locked them. Leave in auto and they die though.

Yeah thats what i was trying to say before - use in auto for easy stuff and anything serious then manually lock them. I wouldn't hesitate to use them manually - had no probs with them over the years.

Post by **bowtie landie** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 5:54 pm

But i know how to strengthen them

which ones - & how much stronger?

Peter K.

Post by **mickyd555** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 7:04 pm

bowtie landie wrote:

But i know how to strengthen them
which ones - & how much stronger?

Peter K.

and are you going to tell us how or is it another secret??

Post by **Yom** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 8:59 pm

He figured out what breaks inside them and decided to start making them.

I've seen pics of the product (if its the one I'm thinking of), and its a nice idea. Basically just some new ring things which slot into place. Standard ones are weak obviously and designed to let go before the CV's do.

But its still cheaper and easier to just get some manual hubs which are a proven, bolt on solution and also don't stick as far out as the selectable auto locking hubs.

Post by **canuck** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:34 am

Sorry to dig up an old thread but would this pic show what usually breaks inside of them?

Yom wrote:He figured out what breaks inside them and decided to start making them.

I've seen pics of the product (if its the one I'm thinking of), and its a nice idea. Basically just some new ring things which slot into place. Standard ones are weak obviously and designed to let go before the CV's do.

But its still cheaper and easier to just get some manual hubs which are a proven, bolt on solution and also don't stick as far out as the selectable auto locking hubs.

Sorry to dig up an old thread but would this pic show what usually breaks inside of them?

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh33 ... 1258662660

Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:45 pm

canuck wrote:Sorry to dig up an old thread but would this pic show what usually breaks inside of them?

Yom wrote:He figured out what breaks inside them and decided to start making them.

I've seen pics of the product (if its the one I'm thinking of), and its a nice idea. Basically just some new ring things which slot into place. Standard ones are weak obviously and designed to let go before the CV's do.

But its still cheaper and easier to just get some manual hubs which are a proven, bolt on solution and also don't stick as far out as the selectable auto locking hubs.

Sorry to dig up an old thread but would this pic show what usually breaks inside of them?

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh33 ... 1258662660

lifetime warranty against breaking , just put your factory internals in them.

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/p ... ts_id=4979

Post by **canuck** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 3:48 pm

SuperiorEngineering wrote:
canuck wrote:Sorry to dig up an old thread but would this pic show what usually breaks inside of them?

Yom wrote:He figured out what breaks inside them and decided to start making them.

I've seen pics of the product (if its the one I'm thinking of), and its a nice idea. Basically just some new ring things which slot into place. Standard ones are weak obviously and designed to let go before the CV's do.

But its still cheaper and easier to just get some manual hubs which are a proven, bolt on solution and also don't stick as far out as the selectable auto locking hubs.

Sorry to dig up an old thread but would this pic show what usually breaks inside of them?

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh33 ... 1258662660

lifetime warranty against breaking , just put your factory internals in them.

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/p ... ts_id=4979

Only problem is that it wasn't the casing which broke - it was the internals of the hub clutch. I had new pieces machined and now all I have to do is harden and temper them. Wish I could find a decent 31 spline hub in North America. Might have to get a set of Superwinch hubs for back-up. It is that or AVM. AVM is plastic but Superwinch is supposed to be metal.

Post by **351ciofgrunt** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 4:23 pm

Genuine Nissan manual hubs are the go

Post by **Look'n 4 Mud** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:43 pm

Hi mate,

On the current front page of this list there is a thread talking about this???? Go there>>>>>>

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic192590.php

Go the Nissan Manual Hubs every time.

Post by **canuck** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:34 pm

Look'n 4 Mud wrote:Hi mate,

On the current front page of this list there is a thread talking about this???? Go there>>>>>>

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic192590.php

Go the Nissan Manual Hubs every time.

Actually saw that thread and it was the one post there that got me thinking about getting some Superwinch hubs to carry as trail spares. Here in canada, spare parts are days or weeks away for me. I've already checked with all the importers here to see if they have any old Nissan hubs sitting around. No go.

What I brought up with resurrecting this thread was the question about what are the bits that break in the Nissan selectable auto hub. I posted a link to the pic of what I found broken in mine and now have new pieces machined and almost ready to go in.

Post by **bowtie landie** » Wed Nov 25, 2009 6:05 pm

Might have to get a set of Superwinch hubs for back-up. It is that or AVM. AVM is plastic but Superwinch is supposed to be metal.

AVM now do a HP hub as well - suppose to be metal & stronger than normal AVM

Post by **WICKED** » Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:12 pm

Superior's all the way...

Post by **bogged** » Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:20 pm

Central Motor Wreckers.
5332 1721
Ballarat

Got 2x GQ Manual hubs today $80ea complete! Much better than Halls and the Patrol wreckers @ 300pr!

Post by **outtacontrolpatrol** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 12:01 pm

IMO standard manual ones are tough as nails if they are kept in servicable condition. I score mine and run no retaining rings with the bolts to allow them to split and break open before the cv's shatter, specially with lockers and 35+'s. Heaps easier to change a hub in the bush than a cv or axle.

Post by **Z()LTAN** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 12:05 pm

outtacontrolpatrol wrote:I Standard ones are weak obviously and designed to let go before the CV's do.

Tell that to the 10,000 people with blown Cvs

Post by **bj on roids** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 6:03 pm

canuck wrote:
Look'n 4 Mud wrote:Hi mate,

On the current front page of this list there is a thread talking about this???? Go there>>>>>>

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic192590.php

Go the Nissan Manual Hubs every time.

Actually saw that thread and it was the one post there that got me thinking about getting some Superwinch hubs to carry as trail spares. Here in canada, spare parts are days or weeks away for me. I've already checked with all the importers here to see if they have any old Nissan hubs sitting around. No go.

What I brought up with resurrecting this thread was the question about what are the bits that break in the Nissan selectable auto hub. I posted a link to the pic of what I found broken in mine and now have new pieces machined and almost ready to go in.

Or you could contact me and I could post you a set?

Only take 3 weeks outside wouldn't it, even on the cheapest postage??

Should be cheaper than machining too, checkout postage costs:
www.auspost.com.au

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