my experiances.. in a nut shell on Rear Wheel bearings...
looking inside the diff drivers side.
Removal of bearings:
or bearing removal in pictures
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
#1. secure axle in vice using a soft timber as to not damage axle spline.
![Image](http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j277/Beef_Melb/Zook/bearing2.jpg)
move brake away as far as possible to allow for grinder to fit in...I used some cable ties to 'position the housing'
![Image](http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j277/Beef_Melb/Zook/bearing1.jpg)
cutting aprox half way through the outer bearing race allowed me to cold chisel the remainded and 'snap' the race, gaining axsess to the inner race and collar.
![Image](http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j277/Beef_Melb/Zook/bearing4.jpg)
again cutting half way through the collar and some gentle persuasion i was able to slide the collar off without any dramas.
![Image](http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j277/Beef_Melb/Zook/bearing5.jpg)
The bearing inner race followed suit and came off the same way..
![Image](http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j277/Beef_Melb/Zook/bearing6.jpg)
***NT owners note that there is a small spacer washer between the bearing and the brake housing. i actually damaged mine on remval and am hoping suzispares will have a replacement..
![Image](http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j277/Beef_Melb/Zook/bearing6.jpg)
The final result is two bare axles, and degreased brake housings. Off to the pipe store.. (Not THAT pipe ya TRIPPAS!)
the difference in the NT & WT bearings is the WT have the spacer built into the bearing race itself.
![Image](http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j277/Beef_Melb/11042008132.jpg)
*** NOT OME***
*The bearings shown above WERE NOT FITTED, and ORIGINAL Suzi ones
were used, I unfortunatly didnt get the suzi part number for the NT
bearing either.. but i gather is the same as above..but NT spacers were
refitted and all looks good...from what i can tell anyway
*Bearing and Collar were installed using a brass collar and length of
piping. The spacer(NT) first, followed by the bearing and finally the collar.
This was performed by other parties and photos unavailable. sorry.
*I also replaced BOTH sides, Bearings, Seals and 'oil throwout' i marked
the drum housings D/P, and also cleaned the diff and the brake housing
contact area itself. there was no gaskets or seals in this area upon
removal. Pictures are a mix of the two, but principle remains the same.
**When removing and Fastening the brake hub to the axle make sure to
have the car on(compressed jackstands) or as close to the
ground as possible and secured safely.
here goes..
I removed the old seal from the passenger side and replaced the seal and the 'oil throw' with genuine new items.
this shows the new seal and oil throw.
once the axle has been carefully installed it may be necessary to CAREFULLY tap the axle and set the bearing into its home... I used a piece of pine as it was handy and soft..
looking from behind with housing to outside of wheel.
I also now tightened the 4 12mm nuts and spring washers on the housing securing it to the diff and checked alignment..
![Image](http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j277/Beef_Melb/Zook/11042008140.jpg)
looks pretty ok.. reckon it may need a squirt of sealer of some sort though...
I also tightened and cleaned the bleed valve and brake line.
a quick degrease and on went the outer drum.
![Image](http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j277/Beef_Melb/Zook/11042008139.jpg)
Dont forget the outer ring if it has been removed!
nows a good time to remove any dents or flat spots in the housing and guard..
[
now its just a matter of bleeding the brakes and putting the wheel back on.
***Dont ForGet to ReFill the DifF!!!***
Hope its helped...
and because its sitting in front of me the part number for the oil throw is 43588-73000 (one unit per package)