Rocky diff centers + CV Question

[RockyF75]

Got a bit carried away today, pulling a gearbox apart. So after that, I pulled a spare diff apart.

Now, what I want to know, is can you change a front diff center, without pulling out BOTH axles? Can you maneuver it into place with only one out?

I'm toying with the idea of welding this spare center I've now got out, and swapping it into my housing just before my trip next week. But time is short, and I'm not real keen on pulling apart and putting back together both hub assemblies. If you can get away with just one, I might find the time and bother to do it.

Also, whats the go with the shims either side of the main bearings? Are they a standard width or made specifically for each housing/center? They control the backlash right?


And when pulling a CV off the axle, you just tap em off aye? Is there a circlip or something that gets broken in this process and needs replacing??


Thanks

[Hatsu]

Pretty certain you'll have little chance of getting a diff out with one shaft still in.

Diffs despite looking like big solid gears have very exact tolerances, when you pull your diff out, make sure you mark which bearing cap goes on which side and do the same with all your shims.
Also don't be tempted to mix and match different ring gear and drive pinions, ideally they're a matched set.

The tolerances in each diff are so fine that when you install it, it should really be set up with a dial gauge, torque wrench, spring scale and a few other little things, but if you put the same unit back in with the same shims in the same places, you'll probably be alright, and anyway when you weld a diff it's for the good time not the long time hey.

Have you got the downloaded rocky manual of the net?

[RockyF75]

Yeah got the manual but they only list what 'should' be done, not what 'can' be done


I thought using a different pinion with a different crown wouldn't matter too much in the front diff, as its usually only used for slow speed stuff?

I've got the bearing caps in the right order, and the whole center in tact. Was thinking I could weld it without having to pull it apart.

But if I'm putting say, diff center "A" into diff housing "B", do I use the shims from housing "A", or from housing "B"?? If that makes any sense

EDIT: Not going to bother welding it before this trip. Things tend to go wrong when they get rushed, but still would like to know cause its definitely something I plan on doing eventually.

[MightyMouse]

Another ( fairly old... ) trick in to fill the diff centre with lead.

Instant locker... and it can be undone as well simply by applying some gentle heat.

Never done it but have spoken to those that have.

[RockyF75]

I like the sound of that, just like ridge capping or something from bunnings, cut to fit in snugly?

[Hatsu]

If diff "A" goes into diff "B" then the whole lot should really be reshimed if longevity is what your after in your diff, as there's no guaruntee either set of shims will be just right.

Seeing as it's for the front however and only gets used occasionally when offroad, not everyday, then you'll probably get years of faithful service with either set of shims and even with different crown gears too.

Put the whole thing together and see how much play there is in it, I don't think you'll have too much drama with it, and even if you do, you've got about 6 more spare diffs don't you???

[RockyF75]

Nah I only got 2 more complete front diffs

Thanks



Anyone know about this:

And when pulling a CV off the axle, you just tap em off aye? Is there a circlip or something that gets broken in this process and needs replacing??

??

[MightyMouse]

I like the sound of that, just like ridge capping or something from bunnings, cut to fit in snugly?

Apparently heated and poured in to form a solid chunk..... Given our small diffs shouldn't take all that much and could use heavy duty foil to seal up the holes during the pour and reduce the volume of lead somewhat.

Probably would warm the diff up first to promote the flow of the lead..... nowhere near hot enough to damage the internals of course.

Lead having a low melting point makes it a pretty low risk process.