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CHANGING FROM MAXI'S TO GQ DIFFS IN RANGIE

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

Moderator: Micka

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Post by GRIMACE »

RUFF wrote:
1MadEngineer wrote:i still don't know why anyone would go to the effort of putting gq diffs in a rover??? no matter what you do the nissan diffs can't be built as strong a toy 60 series diffs for the same $$$. and the 60's are offset F&R!!! they are less prone to bending the front at the swivel ball like nissans, the kingpin inclination is better which makes them WAAAAAY less sensititve to castor changes (less nissan death wobbles). DAMN you can buy a WHOLE 60 series for <$500, the diff centers are interchangeable as are the lockers, the rear axles are stronger (better material and hardening process). there is SOOOOO much aftermarket stuff for them cheap!!!.

If you are going to go to the effort of a diff swap the do it properly, not just half-ar$ed. put decent mounts on the 60's diff, cut and rotate the knucles to get better shaft/pinion angles and put some good chromo bits in it!!! then wheel the beeejeesusss out of it!!! Rovers have such a good drivetrain, don't spoil it with nissan junk..
I doubt the 60 series diffs are wide enough to fit under a rover.
bingo.
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Post by 1MadEngineer »

GRIMACE wrote:
RUFF wrote:
1MadEngineer wrote:i still don't know why anyone would go to the effort of putting gq diffs in a rover??? no matter what you do the nissan diffs can't be built as strong a toy 60 series diffs for the same $$$. and the 60's are offset F&R!!! they are less prone to bending the front at the swivel ball like nissans, the kingpin inclination is better which makes them WAAAAAY less sensititve to castor changes (less nissan death wobbles). DAMN you can buy a WHOLE 60 series for <$500, the diff centers are interchangeable as are the lockers, the rear axles are stronger (better material and hardening process). there is SOOOOO much aftermarket stuff for them cheap!!!.

If you are going to go to the effort of a diff swap the do it properly, not just half-ar$ed. put decent mounts on the 60's diff, cut and rotate the knucles to get better shaft/pinion angles and put some good chromo bits in it!!! then wheel the beeejeesusss out of it!!! Rovers have such a good drivetrain, don't spoil it with nissan junk..
I doubt the 60 series diffs are wide enough to fit under a rover.
bingo.
?? i thought a 60 with the IFS hub kit is about 10-15mm wider than stock??
(yeah the rear would need a spacer or use an 80) :oops:
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Post by GRIMACE »

1MadEngineer wrote:?? i thought a 60 with the IFS hub kit is about 10-15mm wider than stock??
(yeah the rear would need a spacer or use an 80) :oops:
Could be right about the ifs in the front. I always thought of 80 series rear with a widened 60 front, but then for what most of us like to do and most probably all we need, the gq is easier.

Heck in the current build I am using standard rover centres with arbs and chromo axles up front and maxi axles in the rear.

I think it will be fine for the recreational type 4wdin I wanna do.

well i hope so anyways :oops:
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Post by V8 Rangie »

I would stick with the Maxi.. already have them on? no point in putting GQ's on

my 2 cents

Camo
1994 Range Rover Soft Dash, Rear ARB Locker, 33's, 2" body & Spring, custom bits
2004 Range Rover Diesel 20" wheels. My Black Beauty:-)
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Post by Welsh_farmer »

HI there

I am currently undertaking this conversion on my winch challenge Disco. Note absolute minimun road miles so hoping vibration issue won't be too bad. Front axle was easy. Cut off the perches from both axles and swap them over. On the reer I stripped the axle bear and am currently welding on the rover bracketry. I wil post pics when its done. If there are severe vibration problems i have some ideas for simple cost effective solutions I may try. One idea basically involves making a simple 1:1 transfer box that will bolt to the rear output flange and move the drive to the centre line....
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Post by Micka »

Welsh_farmer wrote: One idea basically involves making a simple 1:1 transfer box that will bolt to the rear output flange and move the drive to the centre line....
Didn't something like this come in old VWs?
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Post by Welsh_farmer »

No idea Mick. Would be interested if anyone has anymore info...
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Post by lokka »

Why not fit toyo centers into the rover housings would be asimpler way and stay with the same track jacmac dose all the bits you need tho may be an issue dealing with them :) :) :)
Cheers

Chris

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Post by cloughy »

lokka wrote:Why not fit toyo centers into the rover housings would be asimpler way and stay with the same track jacmac dose all the bits you need tho may be an issue dealing with them :) :) :)
$$$$$$$$$$

GQ is still stronger

Nissan brakes are awseome
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Post by zuffen »

VW reduction boxes were used on split window Kombis and as their name implies they were used to reduce the overall drive ratio.

The transmission was flipped so the axle turned the correct way.

It was a two gear reduction box so it reveresd the rotation of the hub.

I've gone GQ front and rear with GQ 5 speed and transfer.
Cheers,

Zuffen

There's no such a thing as too much horsepower
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Post by lokka »

cloughy wrote:
lokka wrote:Why not fit toyo centers into the rover housings would be asimpler way and stay with the same track jacmac dose all the bits you need tho may be an issue dealing with them :) :) :)
$$$$$$$$$$

GQ is still stronger

Nissan brakes are awseome
Yep your right tho id like to keep the same track and not have the vibe issues of a GQ rear tho 80 rear and GQ front would be nice the extra width would also be usefull tho im still not convinced it would be beta for my needs ..

Im lookin at the rovertracks stuff for around $800AU landed for the rear and a tad more for the front landed then all i need is 2 centers this way i get a good choice of different raitos and longfeilds upfront and similar axles in the rear i rekon its a fair deal concidering its all bolt in no engeneering and i keep my same track width and wont have the tyres stickin out the guards as far to cover with flares ...

And yep nissan breaks are good and cheep to tho my rover pulls up good running the 33's and i dont think il be goin much bigger may try 35's tho for what i want it for 33's are great ...
Cheers

Chris

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Post by Micka »

zuffen wrote:VW reduction boxes were used on split window Kombis and as their name implies they were used to reduce the overall drive ratio.

The transmission was flipped so the axle turned the correct way.

It was a two gear reduction box so it reveresd the rotation of the hub.

I've gone GQ front and rear with GQ 5 speed and transfer.
Would be possible to make a 1:1 gear set and mount it on the back of the tranny to make using a Nissan diff feasible. I am sure some engineering firms could do it. Just easier to use the 80 series rear though.
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Post by Maggot4x4 »

[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
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Post by ALRacing »

About to start next week with the rovertracks kit in our 81 RRC

We are going 80ser front and v6 lux rear and changing out to disco housings

Got a safarigard 3 link going in too. Not sure how the shafts will shape up but always have a plan :)
Range Rover Tragic
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Post by Zombie »

How much did you get the safarigard 3 link for? did you get it directly from safarigard.
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Post by ALRacing »

Mate I went to Locktup4x4 for my Safarigard kit. They are here in Perth

www.locktup4x4.com.au for their contact details
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Post by awright »

I love my maxis- simple and good- worked a treat last weekend :D
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Post by V8 Rangie »

awright wrote:I love my maxis- simple and good- worked a treat last weekend :D
awesome! :armsup:
1994 Range Rover Soft Dash, Rear ARB Locker, 33's, 2" body & Spring, custom bits
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Post by Welsh_farmer »

Finally fitted the GQ axles under the Discovery and have been for first test drive (although I have no brakes yet!!!). Can report no vibration problems as of yet though I only managed 25 mph on a gravel track! Hopefully my brake hoses will arrive tomorrow and I can get and have a proper test of all the geometry and altered tailshafts etc. I will post pics if anyone is interested

Mark
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Post by china »

...yes too pic's!
maggot4x4 does your vibrate?
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Post by Bourbon »

i have 4.6 in rear 4.7 in front of my comp rig never seen tar but no probs at cliff hanger at 100ks
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Post by Welsh_farmer »

Took it onto tarmac yesterday and sad to report it does vibrate. Not excessive but you wouldn't want to drive that far like it (but with 37" mud tyres you wouldn't want to anyway!!). A tip for anyone doing this. Because the front axle of the GQ is wider that the rover one the drag link comes out too short by about 5 cms. This means you can't get the steering centred. BUT I am running an early Discovery box which has a drop-link like a defender and uses a swanneck to the drag-link. Later discos use a track rod end here and have a drag link that is 5 cms longer so I have just sourced one of these and the jobs a good un.
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Post by Welsh_farmer »

See this thread for pics as I hate going through the photobucket route to get them on here!

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=29887&hl=
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GQ gearbox and Transfer ?

Post by rover_owner »

Hey zuffen,
I had been discussing the subject of fitting the gq box and transfer to the Rangie V8 a couple of hours ago with a mate (as I've been looking at doing the gq diff swap) then read this thread!!! (freaky coinsidence!!!)
So got to ask, how hard / easy was it, what did you have to change, and have you got any pics of the mods?
If people don't mind you could reply here or PM me...
Would be grateful of any advice as doing some measuring up in the morning...
Thanks,
James.
'86 Rangie +2" lift 32" BFG's
Mum used to say
"If you can't say something nice
Shut the F#*k up !!!"
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Post by china »

x2. I am also interested in nissan box n case, do they fit in the trans tunnel ? bellhousing ? are you running rover motor ?
Also those that are running nissan fronts, do you drive around with the hubs locked in on road? cos you can't get 2wd is there any problems ?
thanks. daz.
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Post by zuffen »

I'm in the process of intalling it all.

The trans is adapted to a supercharged Lexus in a DAKAR (Bushrangie) with a 50mm body lift.

The problems are:
1. the handbrake hits the rear floor so it needs a dent under the crossmember.
2. the 4x4 shifter is a tight fit in the tunnel. But it does fit.
3. Due to the rear output of the trans being higher than the dropped Rover item the rear shaft angles can get big. I'm at around 16degrees static.
4. You lose full time 4x4.
5. You need to work out how to make your speedo work.

Point 3 I overcame by angling the enginetrans down at the rear and rotating the rear diff to reduce the shaft angle and keep the flanges parralell. This is OK in part time as the front uni joints get some wierd opposite angles, but won't be rotating at road speed. I figure I would only use 4x4 at lower speed so i can live with the problem.

It seems a cgood way to get strong axles and heaps stronger 5 speed manual and isn't all that involved.

I'm looking at over 500lbft of torque so the Rover stuff would all run away and hide when I started the engine.
Cheers,

Zuffen

There's no such a thing as too much horsepower
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