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navara diff
navara diff
the rear diff in the navara d22, is it the same diff as in the patrol,
The QD32 powered D22 runs the (rear diff) same diff center as the GQ and GU front diff (H233B). The GQ and GU rear diff is the H233. Expect for a few models which run the H260.
The VG30E and VG33E run the same as above.
The ZD30DDT and the YD25DDTI CRD powered D22 runs the C200 rear diff.
Not sure what the KA24E/KA24DE models run.
I think the TD27/T powered D22's run the H233B aswell.
Dave.
The VG30E and VG33E run the same as above.
The ZD30DDT and the YD25DDTI CRD powered D22 runs the C200 rear diff.
Not sure what the KA24E/KA24DE models run.
I think the TD27/T powered D22's run the H233B aswell.
Dave.
i dont know what the letters mean exactly but the numbers refer to the size of the diff
the H233 is a 9.5in diff
the c200 is a 8in one
the "H" and "C" i think are how the diff is mounted sailsbury or banjo
im pretty sure the "B" is H233B means its a slippy diff
also the front diff centers can be swaped out for a LSD type from a skyline, silvia or 300zx depending on what diff is in that vehicle.
i swaped out mine a couple of weeks ago from a silvia that had a R180 rear diff, let me tell you, you use a lot less right foot on trail duties
the H233 is a 9.5in diff
the c200 is a 8in one
the "H" and "C" i think are how the diff is mounted sailsbury or banjo
im pretty sure the "B" is H233B means its a slippy diff
also the front diff centers can be swaped out for a LSD type from a skyline, silvia or 300zx depending on what diff is in that vehicle.
i swaped out mine a couple of weeks ago from a silvia that had a R180 rear diff, let me tell you, you use a lot less right foot on trail duties
rear quarters are evil and must be punished with rocks
H stands for heavy duty.Wrench_Pilot_86 wrote:i dont know what the letters mean exactly but the numbers refer to the size of the diff
the H233 is a 9.5in diff
the c200 is a 8in one
the "H" and "C" i think are how the diff is mounted sailsbury or banjo
im pretty sure the "B" is H233B means its a slippy diff
also the front diff centers can be swaped out for a LSD type from a skyline, silvia or 300zx depending on what diff is in that vehicle.
i swaped out mine a couple of weeks ago from a silvia that had a R180 rear diff, let me tell you, you use a lot less right foot on trail duties
C stands for commercial diffs.
The R180 diffs can be found in most CA18/DET, CA20S/E and SR20DE powered cars.
Any questions just ask.
Dave
the diff center cost me $50 from a friend that does hipo work to imports
as far as the work involved i unbolted the cv's left them in there droped the cradle, pulled it apart swaped the ring gear and side bearings ( i have access to a dealership workshop) put it back in probably bout 4 hrs all up, i did it over a week after hours at work
cause the diff i got is a viscous coupling type it responds more when you spin it, tends to grab harder when loaded up unlike the rear that slips when give it too much,
be aware its not a locker it will "open" when enough pressure is put on it
i reckon now with slippy front and rear i am "nicer" on trails that previously req momentum to push me through
if i where to get a hold of another diff center i would make sure that it was the clutch pack one so i could shim it up more to have less slip so it was more "locked"
as far as the work involved i unbolted the cv's left them in there droped the cradle, pulled it apart swaped the ring gear and side bearings ( i have access to a dealership workshop) put it back in probably bout 4 hrs all up, i did it over a week after hours at work
cause the diff i got is a viscous coupling type it responds more when you spin it, tends to grab harder when loaded up unlike the rear that slips when give it too much,
be aware its not a locker it will "open" when enough pressure is put on it
i reckon now with slippy front and rear i am "nicer" on trails that previously req momentum to push me through
if i where to get a hold of another diff center i would make sure that it was the clutch pack one so i could shim it up more to have less slip so it was more "locked"
rear quarters are evil and must be punished with rocks
I've never swapped diff centres before. Is it possible to be done in "the shed" with a reasonable amount of tools? or is it something I would have to take to the diff shop or similar workshop?Wrench_Pilot_86 wrote:the diff center cost me $50 from a friend that does hipo work to imports
as far as the work involved i unbolted the cv's left them in there droped the cradle, pulled it apart swaped the ring gear and side bearings ( i have access to a dealership workshop) put it back in probably bout 4 hrs all up, i did it over a week after hours at work
cause the diff i got is a viscous coupling type it responds more when you spin it, tends to grab harder when loaded up unlike the rear that slips when give it too much,
be aware its not a locker it will "open" when enough pressure is put on it
i reckon now with slippy front and rear i am "nicer" on trails that previously req momentum to push me through
if i where to get a hold of another diff center i would make sure that it was the clutch pack one so i could shim it up more to have less slip so it was more "locked"
diff centre swap is pretty easy in these the only specialised tool needed is a dial guage for preload and backlash
but if your worried that its more a black art mechainics type of thing you can pull the center out zippy tie the shafts outta the way as they all unboult and take the diff "pig" and center to you local diff shop and let them do it.
while your at it you could take the whole truck in and have 4.88's installed into both diffs
but if your worried that its more a black art mechainics type of thing you can pull the center out zippy tie the shafts outta the way as they all unboult and take the diff "pig" and center to you local diff shop and let them do it.
while your at it you could take the whole truck in and have 4.88's installed into both diffs
rear quarters are evil and must be punished with rocks
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