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FJ 40 info

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:09 pm
Location: Melbourne

FJ 40 info

Post by jacksonmturner »

I have just bought a mint original 90000klm FJ40, 1977. Want to do a few mods, disc brake, power steer etc. Where in Melbourne is the best place to go for info, mechanical work, mods. I used to have a BJ40, 308, lift etc and could go to Fred Parker but have just found out that shut long ago. Any other general pointers for good after market gear, sports steering wheel, after market seats etc, cheers.
Didnt realise all the commercial dealers considered them antiques.
Posts: 493
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:25 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by Ricko »

They are getting harder ot buy off the shelf mods for I reckon. Steering wheel should be easy as they should still stock boss kits at most auto shops. For my sports seat I made my own brackets etc, cops don't know whats original on old trucks. For suspension, do some searches on here, there are a number of good threads that will help you out. For 2" lift, plenty of commercial stuff, for more you will probably be going custom. For more mech mods like brakes etc, again do some searches for info, but many options as I think it is easy to use 60 and 75 stuff. I'm not sure on that, my BJ42 came with factory steer, disks and 5 speed. Hope this helps, not from Melbourne so can't help you there.
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:09 pm
Location: Melbourne

FJ 40 info

Post by jacksonmturner »

Yeah, guessed as much but just know there is some old mechanic out there with all the answers....
Cheers.
Posts: 6221
Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 12:51 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: FJ 40 info

Post by v840 »

jacksonmturner wrote:I have just bought a mint original 90000klm FJ40, 1977. Want to do a few mods, disc brake, power steer etc. Where in Melbourne is the best place to go for info, mechanical work, mods. I used to have a BJ40, 308, lift etc and could go to Fred Parker but have just found out that shut long ago. Any other general pointers for good after market gear, sports steering wheel, after market seats etc, cheers.
Didnt realise all the commercial dealers considered them antiques.
A 40 is just about the simplest vehicle ever built in terms of mechanics so it is a great car to learn how to do stuff your self on.

The easiest way to convert the front to discs is to find a later model front end and bolt that under. Its a 12 bolt job and shouldn't take you more than an hour or two. Alternatively you can swap both front and rear diff assemblies for 60 series diffs and gain front disc plus a bit of extra track at the same time.

Same goes for power steer although Ive heard that OE power steering for 40s was crap so Id search on here for a 60 series conversion. Easily good enough for 35s and gets rid of that stupid relay rod at the same time.

Post up your plans and people on here will have done it before. Have a search for the mods you are thinking of too. There is heaps of info around. ;)
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Post by bad_religion_au »

what exactly are you struggling to find?

you may have to get creative when your ordering the aftermarket stuff. just because the salesman says "their ancient" and "we don't carry that stuff"... don't believe a word of it, most salesmen know more about RAV 4's than anything built for offroad. for steering wheel swaps, the steering spline count is the same as the 60 series (and probably 75 series and 80 series)... i have a boss kit off one on mine at the moment.

diffs are the same as any heavy duty (not the LJ/prado) series cruiser front and rear, up until 1990 (or was it 92), and the rears from the 75 and 80 series are the same... that means lockers etc are all still available.

springs your better off doing it yourself. get some decent second hand ones, get a new main leaf made and get em set to the right height.

seats are simple. they are pretty much a flat mount, so find a car with similar flat mounting (heaps of different choices, apparently BMW seats are a good fit) and have at it.

60 series power steering is the way to go.

solid axle hilux, early model 75 series, and 60 series are all donors for disk brake swaps... as said above, it's a bolt on job.
Spit my last breath
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:09 pm
Location: Melbourne

FJ 40 info

Post by jacksonmturner »

Thanx for all the info, it is exactly the info i was after and now knowing that there is a source makes it all seem a whole lot easier. Having only just got the truck I am just gathering all the info I can. The bj40 I had about 8 years ago had a heap of custom work, body lift, home made shackles, dodgey V8 conversion etc. The geometryof the steering was stuffed so with power steering as well and the height it was a death machine to drive. I always wanted to find an untouched example to build on and having done that I want to ensure the work I do (or get done ) is done right.
It has just had new suspension and shocks put through it but is slightly lower in the rear. I rang the crew who sold the springs(have all the receipts) and they told me they are already lifted. It has the original old split rims and I want to change that. So would an extended shackle be the way to go?
Anyway I could ask away for hours so I will follow up the info you have supplied and see how I go.
One last query, it has the extra fuel tank under the passenger seat, was that a factory extra and can I just remove it?
Cheers.
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Post by pricey »

To put 60 diffs under a 40 the spring perches have to be rewelded inwards as the chassis is wider on the 60 so the perches dont line up with the 40 chassis. 75 series diffs im pretty sure bolt up ok. To make the power steer work you'll need a 55 series intermediate shaft as that has a bearing already in it. Or make your own shaft if your good with the tools.
Everyone loves a 40!

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Location: South Australia

Re: FJ 40 info

Post by bad_religion_au »

jacksonmturner wrote:Thanx for all the info, it is exactly the info i was after and now knowing that there is a source makes it all seem a whole lot easier. Having only just got the truck I am just gathering all the info I can. The bj40 I had about 8 years ago had a heap of custom work, body lift, home made shackles, dodgey V8 conversion etc. The geometryof the steering was stuffed so with power steering as well and the height it was a death machine to drive. I always wanted to find an untouched example to build on and having done that I want to ensure the work I do (or get done ) is done right.
It has just had new suspension and shocks put through it but is slightly lower in the rear. I rang the crew who sold the springs(have all the receipts) and they told me they are already lifted. It has the original old split rims and I want to change that. So would an extended shackle be the way to go?
Anyway I could ask away for hours so I will follow up the info you have supplied and see how I go.
One last query, it has the extra fuel tank under the passenger seat, was that a factory extra and can I just remove it?
Cheers.
Personally, i find that making sure it's done right means doing it myself. there are some good shops out there, but plenty of dodgy shops too. They don't have to drive/look at the truck every day. you do, as you've found with your suspension, no way would i have been happy to get it back lopsided.

you can go extended shackles, just don't go nuts... an inch and a half over standard is the max i'd go, and that'll only net you 3/4's an inch lift. maybe work out WHY the springs aren't holding the height (perhaps they're too short, as many aftermarket lift springs are... bad design)...

power steering can be done 1001 different ways. 55 series column is easy, but a 75 series column works. i'm sure 60 and 80 series could be made to work.
pricey wrote:To put 60 diffs under a 40 the spring perches have to be rewelded inwards as the chassis is wider on the 60 so the perches dont line up with the 40 chassis. 75 series diffs im pretty sure bolt up ok. To make the power steer work you'll need a 55 series intermediate shaft as that has a bearing already in it. Or make your own shaft if your good with the tools.
Yep, for the front diff. the rear actually has to be moved out a touch, because the 40 rails are slightly wider at the rear. the front perch rides up the pumpkin a hell of a long way, and personally, i wouldn't bother, too much effort... but i got em already done :armsup:
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mmm

Post by turbo42 »

Talk to Ken at Eureka Offroad in Dandenong (spelling) he is a 40 series God and should be able to help you out.
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