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35's on hjz105 and gearing

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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ned
Posts: 61
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 10:24 pm
Location: geraldton, west oz

35's on hjz105 and gearing

Post by ned »

ive got a standard hjz105 and am looking at putting some new tyres on the 16" sunnys.
ive decided on maxxis bighorn but i dont know wether i should go 305/70r16 or 315/70r16. with 30mm coil spacers, will the 315 fit? or will i need the 3inch lift im planning first?

also, what gearing is best suited to 33" and 35"?

cheers, ned
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Post by 98lux »

315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
if ya gona rev it, Chev it
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Post by me3@neuralfibre.com »

98lux wrote:315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
What about locating the front control arms forward 30mm - would that be enough?

Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
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Post by Kramer »

I have 35's on my Hunjy with a 3" lift as said before I removed the mud flaps (illegal) the rears scrape a little at full flex but I am not worried the front end is all good except you need to lengthen the diff breathers when you do the lift mine keep on coming off.

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Post by 98lux »

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
98lux wrote:315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
What about locating the front control arms forward 30mm - would that be enough?

Paul
Yes it would but at what cost, will the slip yoke be long enough as it slid out about 1" just with the 3" lift. You would need to buy longer arms as well.
if ya gona rev it, Chev it
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Post by me3@neuralfibre.com »

98lux wrote:
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
98lux wrote:315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
What about locating the front control arms forward 30mm - would that be enough?

Paul
Yes it would but at what cost, will the slip yoke be long enough as it slid out about 1" just with the 3" lift. You would need to buy longer arms as well.
Darren's done something like this on his Rooby project - 80scool.
He may be reading this.

Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
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Post by +dj_hansen+ »

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
98lux wrote:
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
98lux wrote:315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
What about locating the front control arms forward 30mm - would that be enough?

Paul
Yes it would but at what cost, will the slip yoke be long enough as it slid out about 1" just with the 3" lift. You would need to buy longer arms as well.
Darren's done something like this on his Rooby project - 80scool.
He may be reading this.

Paul
Darren runs a 3' lift, with bumpstop extensions, arms 12mm forward and 37 procomps... the key here is limiting upwards travel and maximising down travel :)
Cheers,
Dan.

[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
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Location: Melb. AU

Post by hdj105 »

98lux wrote:315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
No need for hammers ;-)

It's that nobby bit moulded into the flap covering the end of the sill that scrapes, some just trim that off, or fold the end of the sill 90 deg. and stick a screw through the flap into it. I replaced the front flaps with some cut from rally type flat poly material, they now *just* scrape on turns when compressed.

You will need to drop the rear bump stops too. Even with 285's the tyres will rub the inner guard at full articulation if you have long shocks, 305's will be worse, and 315's even moreso.

I still run std 4.3 diffs, ideally you need lower gearing but it's not readily available for the 100/105 rear.
Greg G
2000 HDJ105
ned
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Post by ned »

drop the rear bump stops???? can you please explain that a bit better
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Post by 98lux »

You need to limit the up travel of the rear wheel to stop it hitting the inner gaurd. To do this, you lower the rear bump stops (put a spacer in between the bump stop and the chassis)
if ya gona rev it, Chev it
ned
Posts: 61
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 10:24 pm
Location: geraldton, west oz

Post by ned »

but wouldt that limit flex?
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Post by me3@neuralfibre.com »

98lux wrote:You need to limit the up travel of the rear wheel to stop it hitting the inner gaurd. To do this, you lower the rear bump stops (put a spacer in between the bump stop and the chassis)
What about running a 10-15mm wheel spacer (yeah - legal issues).
Or different offset rims?

Thanx
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Posts: 421
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 12:35 pm
Location: Tweed coast

Post by 98lux »

ned wrote:but wouldt that limit flex?
Only up travel not down travel.
Just go to you local flex rock or track and flex it slowly till the rear wheel is just missing the inner guard and the measure the distance between the diff and the bump stop and that is how much up travel will be lost.
if ya gona rev it, Chev it
Posts: 421
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 12:35 pm
Location: Tweed coast

Post by 98lux »

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
98lux wrote:You need to limit the up travel of the rear wheel to stop it hitting the inner gaurd. To do this, you lower the rear bump stops (put a spacer in between the bump stop and the chassis)
What about running a 10-15mm wheel spacer (yeah - legal issues).
Or different offset rims?

Thanx
Paul
Yes you could, but as you said "legal issues", and as for the offset rims, you then run into issues with the tyres out side the gaurds, so some flares need to be put on.
if ya gona rev it, Chev it
Posts: 310
Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:38 am
Location: Melb. AU

Post by hdj105 »

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: What about running a 10-15mm wheel spacer (yeah - legal issues).
Or different offset rims?
Paul, from memory you would then have an issue with the tyre fouling the guard lip when both sides of rear suspension go full compression, i.e. big speed bump, jump, etc.

This would also compound the issue with front tyres rubbing too.
Last edited by hdj105 on Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Greg G
2000 HDJ105
Posts: 310
Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:38 am
Location: Melb. AU

Post by hdj105 »

ned wrote:but wouldt that limit flex?
Of course, but a proper solution would be to use a longer stroke shock so that you wouldn't loose anything ;) ;)
Greg G
2000 HDJ105
ned
Posts: 61
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 10:24 pm
Location: geraldton, west oz

Post by ned »

ok, so to recap and get all the info in one post.

35's will fit with a 3 inch lift if the sill cap is removed and rear bumpstops are dropped. longer shocks will gain back articualtion after bump stop drop.
Posts: 310
Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:38 am
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Post by hdj105 »

ned wrote:ok, so to recap and get all the info in one post.

35's will fit with a 3 inch lift if the sill cap is removed and rear bumpstops are dropped. longer shocks will gain back articualtion after bump stop drop.
Basically yes. Remember, adding lift doesn't make the wheel arches bigger ;-)
Greg G
2000 HDJ105
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