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Limited Slip In a Wide Trake

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

Moderators: lay80n, sierrajim

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Limited Slip In a Wide Trake

Post by suzyted »

are there any vitaras that you can use a limmy out of for a wide track ?
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Post by mud4b »

yes but extremely rare and never in AUS.. your better off with a jimny rear lsd (it bolts straight in but you have to change ratios) but as said in another post here if you thought or know of toyota lsd's they are shit then honestly save time and money and stick with a open sierra diff as jimny lsd's are worse... not going into the arb air lockers are the Poo bs !!!!! ( poo = THE shit/ bomb..)

cheers mark
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
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Post by alien »

i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
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Post by 11_evl »

alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers
michael
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Post by RockHopper »

11_evl wrote:
alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers. Just remember, there are some instances when you are offroad when permanent lockers can be more of a hindrance than a help.
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Post by joeblow »

i agree also, and i believe a welded diff is more unpredictable than an lsd. i've had experiance with sook diffs and japanese lsd's, and let me tell, they are not such a bad thing, but for price the air locker is the only diff for me.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
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Post by GRPABT1 »

for the price?! They are dear as poison compared to a lockright.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
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Post by joeblow »

i mean price compared to slippery and air locker not amatuer lockrights.......... :lol:
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
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Post by ofr57 »

the reason why ted is looking this way is due to some classes of compertion's dont allow lockers ... and since import sierra came with an LSD it seems better to have then nothing
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Post by VR Rodeo »

RockHopper wrote:
11_evl wrote:
alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.
Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grail ;)
'92 Rodeo - VR V6, T700, 31's
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
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Post by suzimad »

what are the particular rules on what you can run in your diff for the events that you are running ?

suzyted are you the one i was going to get the phantom grip locker for ?
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Post by joeblow »

VR Rodeo wrote:
RockHopper wrote:
11_evl wrote:
alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.
Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grail ;)
don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. like i said i have alot of experience with jap suzuki lsd's and if you can get your hands on one cheap enough they are a good thing, and i'm not talkin about a hot-rodded one, i'm talking about either genuine or jap aftermarket suzuki model, and not tojo. they are rare but are a good thing. oh...and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
Posts: 377
Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 4:03 pm
Location: Perth

Post by VR Rodeo »

joeblow wrote:
VR Rodeo wrote:
RockHopper wrote:
11_evl wrote:
alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.
Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grail ;)
don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. Agreed

and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.
My point exactly, both have their faults
'92 Rodeo - VR V6, T700, 31's
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
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Post by RockHopper »

VR Rodeo wrote:
joeblow wrote:
VR Rodeo wrote:
RockHopper wrote:
11_evl wrote: how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.
Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grail ;)
don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. Agreed

and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.
My point exactly, both have their faults
I agree also, but I know which one I'd rather have ;) . Back on topic, I was on the Calmini site today and found the make an lsd for the rear diff on the Sierra's. http://www.puresuzuki.com/Limited_Slip.htm . I don't know what they're like, but it's an option
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Post by ofr57 »

joeblow wrote:
VR Rodeo wrote:
RockHopper wrote:
11_evl wrote:
alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.
Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grail ;)
don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. like i said i have alot of experience with jap suzuki lsd's and if you can get your hands on one cheap enough they are a good thing, and i'm not talkin about a hot-rodded one, i'm talking about either genuine or jap aftermarket suzuki model, and not tojo. they are rare but are a good thing. oh...and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.
joe have you got any contacts i could chase for a LSD
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Post by alien »

11_evl wrote: how embarrasing, getting stuck.
putting yourself in situations where its tricky to get out of is most of the fun for me =) depending on the obstacle ill go 2wd first, then 4 hi, then 4 low, then the locker if need be... getting stuck is fun!!!
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Post by cj »

It was my understanding that Calmini are selling genuine Suzuki lsd's sourced from Japan but it would pay to check.
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Post by ofr57 »

cj wrote:It was my understanding that Calmini are selling genuine Suzuki lsd's sourced from Japan but it would pay to check.
interesting :cool:
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Post by want33s »

ofr57 wrote: joe have you got any contacts i could chase for a LSD
www.lowrangeoffroad.com
dunno why you'd want an LSD though. :roll:
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Post by ofr57 »

want33s wrote:
ofr57 wrote: joe have you got any contacts i could chase for a LSD
www.lowrangeoffroad.com
dunno why you'd want an LSD though. :roll:
Jas.
the reason why ted is looking this way is due to some classes of compertion's dont allow lockers ... and since import sierra came with an LSD it seems better to have then nothing
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Post by GRPABT1 »

joeblow wrote:i mean price compared to slippery and air locker not amatuer lockrights.......... :lol:
This was probably meant for me to bight but anyway....

Just because someone cannot afford air lockers they are amateurs?

Your' posts certainly do annoy me more than anyone elses on this forum.
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