2 Door Bobtail Build up

[Merv]

other than that just sat there looking at it for probably an hour just nutting things out, in particular the rear bar.

Now that the chassis is 30 odd cm shorter, the chassis is now to low to mount the bar too, so im now having to mount on the body. Much in the same way most, if not all rock sliders are mounted on range rovers. I.E. bolt thru body with some crush tubes and such. I feel as though the way im planning it, it will be plenty strong enough. Just now ill have to mount recovery points directly to the chassis, no big deal though.

When we did our bobtail we added another cross member at the rear of the shortened chassis, this was used for the rear body mounts and we mounted the rear bar we fabricated to it as well. Just a thought.

[UNJUST]

Uninformed Wrote:

good to hear,

i understand how the rear of the chassis archs down then up, and you have cut it short so its just down now.

could you mod the chassis from behind the spring mounts so its level or sweeps back up for your rear bar.... just remember you may want to tow with this rig.....

why not have a go at building a cage yourself? buy a good bender and have at it. will come in handy for your front bar and other projects down the road.....

keep at it mate,this will be one of the good ones

Serg

Hey Serg, Thanks for the comments once again.

Currently the chassis is cut off at the lowest point of the "sweep" if you like. I have thought of talking to the engineer about cutting more chassis off and having it come straight out from the spring hangers. but i figure that having the chassis down like that might offer the fuel tank that ill have to make a bit more protection, in saying that i dont reckon having the chassis the way it is wont affect the departure angle. not too much anyway, remembering its basically a foot shorter than standard

tow bar side of things, i will have something more like a hayman reece style "bolt on" job, much like you would find on a tray back ute. Being able to mount it on the low part of the chassis, which by the time i get 33+ tyres it wont be that low, should make a good tow bar height..

I have thought about building a cage myself, which could still happen! (if im technically allowed) but im my own worst enemy sometimes. taking on too much and not farming out jobs, sometimes easier to just pay someone else. And as you say, ill always have the bender.

Keeping in mind, there is always more than one way to skin a cat, but i have to skin this one the engineers way

Cheers, Jarrod


tna racing wrote:

looking really good mate

hey thanks, i got your messenger details sent thru..


merv wrote:

When we did our bobtail we added another cross member at the rear of the shortened chassis, this was used for the rear body mounts and we mounted the rear bar we fabricated to it as well. Just a thought.

hey merv, any chance of some photos? did you have yours engineered? and for the effort you put in in the shed, was it worth it out in the scrub?


Thanks everyone, this website certainly gets you motivated!!

[tna racing]

no worries mate

[Merv]

Jarrod, we haven't had it engineered, it is strictly a fun vehicle. Haven't wheeled it yet, still a couple of weeks away, so I cant say if it was worth doing or not, but looking at the departure angle I will say it certainly looks like it will be worth it.

Here is a link to another forum with some pics of the build, you can see the cross member we added to the rear, if you want some more pics, i have a couple of close ups of the rear and I also have some pics of the rear bar that I haven't added to the thread yet. http://www.lrrforums.com/showthread.php?t=7914

If you can put up with the umpteen pages of dribble there are more photos on this thread.
http://www.westcoastcrawlers.com.au/php ... sc&start=0

PM me your email address if ya want more pics.

[UNJUST]

hey merv

i checked your photos out, looks like its coming along. how long have you been building it for?

I sadly got a bit excited with the grinder when cutting the chassis and cut it behind the body mount, i had left it long but something got the betta of me, anywho its done now. Now ill have to weld a member to the back of the chassis and still use the body lift blocks in the rear, cause im guessing you havent merv?

well im off back out the shed to get something done..

[Merv]

Jarrod, we bought the car nearly two years ago, did a few mods before September last year then spent the nex 8 months planning the build...ie; doing nothing. Started the strip and build in june this year.

When we made up the new cross member for the rear we mounted it high enough to do away with the body lift blocks and are just using the original rubber mounts for the two rear mounts.

[UNJUST]

I thought you must of made the rear x-member as you mentioned.
i do alot of "planning" too, just checked the date when i first bought this truck of mine, 26-6-05 Cant rush these things i guess. Lack of money never helped the situation.

has anyone ever used one of those JD Squared tube benders??

Im thinking ill buy one and have a crack at my cage myself, that way (as unimformed mentioned) ill be able to build my front and rear bars and make up some sliders too. couldnt believe how much people are charging just for a basic rear bar, and as bobtailed this thing a standard bar is not an option.

On the rear bar topic, ive figured out how to increase its strength, ill still mount it like rock sliders under the tail gate, but where it will wrap around the corners ill be able to tie it in with the rollcage. a picture may explain it betta.

Speaking of, here are some updated photos


LR Automotive front body mount

As it stands in its current condition, body lift installed

a quick mock up of how the rear x-member will be, it will be constructed of 100x50x2.5 RHS, with gussets.
still have to nut out some recovery points, got some possibilties going on in my head.

Cheers

[UNJUST]

And some more photos

This is what i made this winter to keep warm.

if you cant tell its a bloody old LPG Cylinder, interceptor rim for the base. its probably a bit thin for heater, when you get it cranked up the back of it glows red!!

underside of the RH Rear guard where ive cut and folded over like they are standard, retains its shape and strength alot betta than just cutting it straight thru.

RH Rear body mount, you can see how the chassis is at its lowest point where its cut off. will have to make new mounts to accept the body lift strap. ive only used that RHS for bit of an idea, its not the size im using. its just all i had at home at the time.

Cheers

[uninformed]

id go 3mm on your rearcross member.

install squish tubes for any through bolts.

have you thought about a 50mm receiver(SHS insert say 65x65x4 that wll alow a 50x50 to slide inside it) for tow ball (like arb etc) and recovery point.

remeber recovery points cant be welded on comp rigs.

i have a JD bender, IT IS VERY GOOD. air over hydraulic. its a model 4 i think, the big one.

dies are not cheap, but looked after they should out last you!

Serg

[UNJUST]

reason i wasnt going for 3mm was that i was trying to stay the same sort of thickness as the chassis, get a betta weld when the two materials are of the same thickness. but to a degree it doesnt hurt to over engineer something.

The way you mentioned about putting a haymen reece style tow bar as such in the rear member is how i really wanted to do it, flush fit nice and simple but the engineer wont allow it, its probably something i could do later on, then i would go up in size with the x-member if i were go that way.

they dont really give those benders away do they, not cheap but seem like a good product. and would be very useful in the shed. pity the dies are so expensive like you said.

Jlowe

[uninformed]

bloody engineers, i mean have a look at the rears on defenders and series landrovers.... you could add the angle bracing on the inside corners of the chassis rails....

the difference between 2mm and 3mm wont make that big a deal with welding...im sure you have the skills mate.

if you can afford the bender go for it, very well made, very simple to use.

serg

[UNJUST]

yeah im getting pretty keen to buy one, id probably just have to go for a model 3 job, and two sets of dies, 1 3/4 and 1 1/2 seems to be the closest to 44.5mm and 38mm, is that correct? wondering if best option is to get it direct from states or locally. charge pretty hard on posatge being a heavy item i spose. but then i dont know if ill get slugged with some form of taxes if i have it sent. Probably work out easier to get it locally.

i probably will make the tow bar/recovery point like i want to, just do it after i get it registered. no one has to know do they?

[uninformed]

shipping will depend on who they will use. if its UPS or FEDEX look out, but if the will ship USPS, this is pretty god value for money.

if they use a courier then you will have all the processing fees etc at this end. i think they used BAX GLOBEL when i imported mine.

if you keep the purchase price AND shipping, combined, below $1000 you wont pay any gst or inport duty.


i dont think they were available here in oz when i got mine either.

when you are looking at dies, there are 3 types:
#1 tube
#2 pipe
#3 shs/rhs

tube is for stainless steel/alloy/cromo etc
pipe is for mild steel and is the correct sizes for our NB black pipe
and shs/rhs is for square/rectangle hollow section.

i assume you will be using the mild steel black pipe, which is fine. so just get the correct sizes for your needs.

yep do what you want if you feel its safe, but probably best to keep it to yourself

Serg

[Corgie Carrier]

How are things going on ya project?

Any progress?

[UNJUST]

hey there, no progress to report, been flat out with work and my other project, so in the next couple of week that will be finished then ill be into the rangie. Ive been buying bits here and there for it so i should have plenty to go on with.

Ill keep you all updated, Cheers

[UNJUST]

Hey guys,

Well as working life is taking over "shed time" im going to sell the 2 door bobtail to purchase something already running. Just hanging to get out there!!

Ill either be looking for a later model rangie or dare i say it, a patrol. As some made the coment in one of my other topics, "why dont you just buy a patrol" after thinking of changing basically everything except the body shell, which is moded anyway

Ill post it up in the for sale section

Jlowe

[stuee]

Ill either be looking for a later model rangie or dare i say it, a patrol. As some made the coment in one of my other topics, "why dont you just buy a patrol" after thinking of changing basically everything except the body shell, which is moded anyway

Common be reasonable, I'm sure the person who said that really has no idea what they are on about . Patrols are crap, my old boys got one ('05 td) and he prefers the driving position, ride, comfort and transmission of my disco ('97 V8) to the patrol. The only thing he likes about the patrol is its economical and a turbo diesel. And somehow my disco has a higher load capacity than his patrol too

Is it not possible to hold onto the bobtail and purchase another car? I'm not sure you'll get your money back for the work you've done and would suck to have to let it go.

[TRobbo]

Does it run or does it require a trailer to be moved around?

[UNJUST]

Hey stuee i wasnt completly pointing the finger at you

Look id absolutly love to hang on to it, and yeah id never get my money or time back on it. i mean you can pick up a 2 door for next to nothing even as a runner. Then ive got a brand new LRA dody lift kit that owes me too much as anyone has bought one knows, plus flares and the few other bits i bought from them. I would of spent more $ with them than what id get for it as is.

I think i could probably lower my vision a bit, paint it as is and get it registered then tinker away modifiy it, rather than trying to do every thing at once. Its a bad habit of mine

Because realistically i only need to paint it and assemable, buy some wheels and tyres and go get it muddy. Then i can do all the other things id like too do as i please, or i might find once im driving it thing could change completly

Being as though its my own first 4wd i just need to get out amongst it

What do you all reckon?

Jlowe

[stuee]

I reckon finish off what you have at the moment. Doesn't even need paint, just primer. If you're gonna transfer all the kit you bought over to the new rangie you may as well finish off the current one you have. Be more enjoyable getting to see all your work being used and would probably take the same amount of time.

I helped a mate do a quick touch up on his HQ ute. We ended up half way pulling it apart because he had visions of rebuilding it from ground up. About half way through taking the front of the ute apart he changed his mind so we mashed it all back together and he drove it for about a month before taking it all apart again. While its been off the road the second time its had a supercharger installed, rack and pinion steering, new fuel system etc. Point to above ramblings - nothing but its similar situation to yours. Just get it running, get your off road fix then do the rest of it later.

My 2c.

[UNJUST]

Well if been thinking hard, it seems as though you good folkes on here have convinced me to keep and finish the rangie, even if it were only a few people i didnt need alot of convincing

See you out there soon i hope

Jlowe

[Corgie Carrier]

Good decision mate!

Can't wait to see the rest of the build.

Did you get my pm?

Neale

[UNJUST]

Thanks Neale

Sorry mate i thought i replied to you. Anytime you wanna come have a look at mine your welcome, or ive got heaps of photos i can share. In answer to your PM id definatly talk to engineer first if you plan on it being registered? Ive never tempted something like it myself but i reckon in comparison to other models its pretty dam easy, main reason being is that it all just bolts together.

You said your horsham way?

Cheers Jlowe

[Corgie Carrier]

I'm closer to St. Arnaud than Horsham.

What engineer did you use? Where is he?

It looks like I'm gonna have to travel 200ks to get to one no matter which direction I go.

Neale

[NRS91]

greetings from england and the pommies who cant wire...
bobtail pickup rangies are ace...
mine needs inner wings, sills and floor welding but it was ace when i took it for a couple of thrashes around the offroad sight...
my mates in thier discos left nice lines for me to follow with their tow balls haha
mines got a series 3 rear crossmember...hope this helps
good look wiht you project...