Hi All,
First post regarding my Feroza and a thanks to Murcod for the link, was starting to think people where ashamed to admit they owned one. I purcashed it for my main hobby and it's size is perfect, motor wize is less than perfect.
My question is on a heart transplant as it's in the throws of a coronary.
Reading posts on the site I see crossbreeding in the engine bay is out, unless I want to pay for the car twice, and after a quote from the quack, putting it down is the most humane option for it and my wallet.
I see the Applause motor maybe be used, is there any gain as I have pass many in my Rav4.
Not interested in out running my own head lights, like those with C/dore motors ( your freaks ) but would like a little more horsepower when next challenged by anything that looks like a incline.
Don't get me wrong, they are very fast..downhill. I am currently getting the fuel consumption of a military personal carrier (320 km per tank) and with the aerodynamics of a filing cabinet, planning trips dictated by wind direction is getting a little tiresome.
It's a 94 widetrak 1.6 EFI. It has extractors,K&N pod, but all stock after that. Looking for more advice on the swap, and what $$ to pay for a motor without becoming another life time project in the shed. Current local quote is $950 short motor S/H.
Regards DOZA1
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Feroza engine issues
Moderator: Tiny
I am currently getting the fuel consumption of a military personal carrier (320 km per tank) and with the aerodynamics of a filing cabinet, planning trips dictated by wind direction is getting a little tiresome.
aerodynamics of a filing cabinet and planning trips by wind direction ... welecome to the world of Daihatsu
however Daihatsu's are normally pretty good on gas .. have you checked your O2 sensor?? i do presume your extractors had one fitted?? if not the computer (ECU) will "default" to a factory preset "safe" air/fuel ratio that is garenteed to run but isnt that ecconomic on your wallet.
im currently getting around 9.5L per 100 km on 30" tyres (hankook RT01's)
the appluase short block is the same as the fezz's anyway.. you wont get much increase in power (apart from the fact the moter will prob have less k's) however if you can get away with it dump the catalic convertor, i gained 25% more power in cutting that stupid thing off, fuel enocomy went up dramitically too.
GET RID OF K&N POD if you spend any time off road .. they just dont filter out the dust and crap enough to keep ya motor in one piece for very long.
..Mightymouse will no doubt give you all the skinny on this .. he's here the resident diahatfoot nut
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1988 LWB ,IFS, LSD, POS, PAJ, 31" M/T's on bling rims, Snorkel, 2" Lift ,new shocks ,XD9000 winch
1988 LWB ,IFS, LSD, POS, PAJ, 31" M/T's on bling rims, Snorkel, 2" Lift ,new shocks ,XD9000 winch
Thanks for the welcome Meeca, reading pasted info on the O2 sensor posted here, I assume it fine (has one genni ext), it's my understanding the CHECK ENGINE light stay on if it's on the the blink...correct me please if that's wrong. Is there a way to test it, in car?
CPU "default" OOKKKkkkk..... Is it the same as a Charade, 3 cylinders subjected to change at the next cough, hill or verbal abuse at 5.00 am on the way to work??
Catalytic converter is not on my exhaust system but has a great converter up front for sleeping cats..converts them every time.
It's got to be terminal, with enough soot in the tail pipe to attract it's own carbon tax. It's never been good so this could be a novelty with it running like intended by toy town engineers.
My road time is 75/25 in favor of black top so I fitted the pod after seeing the standard intake setup. I thought it was a home brew still. If there some thing better, short of forced induction I would like to know about it.
Looking at buying a motor this week.
Regards DOZA1
CPU "default" OOKKKkkkk..... Is it the same as a Charade, 3 cylinders subjected to change at the next cough, hill or verbal abuse at 5.00 am on the way to work??
Catalytic converter is not on my exhaust system but has a great converter up front for sleeping cats..converts them every time.
It's got to be terminal, with enough soot in the tail pipe to attract it's own carbon tax. It's never been good so this could be a novelty with it running like intended by toy town engineers.
My road time is 75/25 in favor of black top so I fitted the pod after seeing the standard intake setup. I thought it was a home brew still. If there some thing better, short of forced induction I would like to know about it.
Looking at buying a motor this week.
Regards DOZA1
Stock Applause motor will give you 78kW at the flywheel, vs. 70kW for the stock Feroza donk.
Mine runs fine with 31's, Applause donk, extractors and 2" system right through.
It'll NEVER be the fastest thing off the mark, but it IS a 4WD.
I paid around $850 for a Jap import donk about 4 1/2 years ago. If you can do the swap yourself, then you should be able to get it all done in an arvo or two.
Mine runs fine with 31's, Applause donk, extractors and 2" system right through.
It'll NEVER be the fastest thing off the mark, but it IS a 4WD.
I paid around $850 for a Jap import donk about 4 1/2 years ago. If you can do the swap yourself, then you should be able to get it all done in an arvo or two.
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
DOZA1, nice to see you made it here.
The EFI fault light won't necessarily come on if you've got a dead Oxy sensor. Mine was open circuit (no earth through the exhuast manifold) and didn't light it; then once that was fixed it was responding slowly which cause surging and other issues (but it still didn't light!) The EFI system on them is very archaic and not too smart.
Have a read through the FAQ thread as there's a lot of good stuff in there on Oxy sensor fault finding and the Applause engine swaps.
The EFI fault light won't necessarily come on if you've got a dead Oxy sensor. Mine was open circuit (no earth through the exhuast manifold) and didn't light it; then once that was fixed it was responding slowly which cause surging and other issues (but it still didn't light!) The EFI system on them is very archaic and not too smart.
Have a read through the FAQ thread as there's a lot of good stuff in there on Oxy sensor fault finding and the Applause engine swaps.
David
Apart from the bolt ons the Applause and the Feroza engine are essentially the same - except for the camshaft, which is a bit more highly tuned on the Applause, This gives a little more top end power BUT a little less bottom end torque and as the Feroza's transfer ratio if F#$@%@^G atrocious then its a compromise you need to be careful with. If fact I've got an adjustable timing gear on mine and I've retarded it 15 crank degrees. Its knocked some top end off but its better down low.
Applause motors can be had from self serve wreckers for around $120 plus some heave ho time. Takes a few trips to spot a good one but they are out there - all you need to do is wait.
Ditch the pod filter if your going off road, the extra noise isn't worth the dirt they let in. The stock airbox is restrictive but does its job, its not that hard to come up with a custom system that actually works. Coupled to a snorkel the intakes pretty well done.
Lambda sensors can be a PITA to diagnose without a scope or mixture analyser - however they are a consumable part, they don't last forever. 150,000 is the max to reliably expect under good circumstances
Oh and BTW... welcome.
Applause motors can be had from self serve wreckers for around $120 plus some heave ho time. Takes a few trips to spot a good one but they are out there - all you need to do is wait.
Ditch the pod filter if your going off road, the extra noise isn't worth the dirt they let in. The stock airbox is restrictive but does its job, its not that hard to come up with a custom system that actually works. Coupled to a snorkel the intakes pretty well done.
Lambda sensors can be a PITA to diagnose without a scope or mixture analyser - however they are a consumable part, they don't last forever. 150,000 is the max to reliably expect under good circumstances
Oh and BTW... welcome.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
hmmm... must remember to fit a new one this weekMightyMouse wrote:....they are a consumable part, they don't last forever. 150,000 is the max to reliably expect under good circumstances
I got pretty much the same problems as DOZA1 is describing, but I am pretty sure that the motor isnt r00ted just yet.
black smoke, 7.5km/L fuel usage... black soot in the tail pipe.. surging, and 'hunting' at idle.
It all smells to me like a dodgy sensor... just havent had time to check it out.
I also have 31in muddies and worn out steering parts, so that doesnt help the fuel economy around town.
Pretty easy to test the O2 sensor... find a straight bit of road... coast along at idle in 2nd and floor it... wind it out to 500 short of redline... if the sensor is shot, then when you get to about 4250-4750rpm you will notice a BIG surge in power... it just comes alive.. it aint a race car, but you will notice it. Its much more subtle when the sensor is working properly.
The ECU goes in to ?closed? loop mode when it gets to that rpm range... same in the 4cyl charades... the ecu ignores ALL sensors and just starts feeding in fuel at a pre-defined ratio.. hence the surge in power.
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Tzi -- beware of cheap imitations
Tzi -- beware of cheap imitations
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