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just did ruf no gain in flex?
Open up the spring clamps - you'll pick up more droop.
You look to be getting fairly good travel now. I agree there's more droop to be had in the shackle angle, but I'd optimise what you have there now - sort the steering, diff breather and brake lines and shock lengths- before you stress about chasing another couple of inches of droop with mix and matched leaves, which is all you'll get- a couple of more inches.
Do some measuring- you might be able to lower the top shock mount to save you buying longer shocks. Next time you flex the car up fully like that, measure how much shock shaft you have showing on the compressed side. anything more than 1" means you can lower the top mount the difference.
Best idea is to reverse the car up a bank and make sure the drooped wheel is off the ground with the shock off. When you're like this you still need to see 1" of shock shaft.
Oh and a note about the bumpstops - The best leverage will be had if all the spacer is between the chassis and the bumpstop - no spacer on the axle at all. It won't make a massive difference, but it will help a bit.
Remember, every time you make a change for more articulation, the compressed shock length you have to work with will get shorter at the same time the extended length will get longer.
Best case is to do all the work to your steering, bumpstops, brake lines, open the spring clamps, then back it up a bank and work out the shock length you need. You need to take 2 measurements - travel, and compressed length.
If the travel figure you need means you need to move the mounts, you'll only need to do it once and you'll ensure you buy a shock long enough to do the job rather than working with what you have, which I think won't be long enough.
Steve.
You look to be getting fairly good travel now. I agree there's more droop to be had in the shackle angle, but I'd optimise what you have there now - sort the steering, diff breather and brake lines and shock lengths- before you stress about chasing another couple of inches of droop with mix and matched leaves, which is all you'll get- a couple of more inches.
Do some measuring- you might be able to lower the top shock mount to save you buying longer shocks. Next time you flex the car up fully like that, measure how much shock shaft you have showing on the compressed side. anything more than 1" means you can lower the top mount the difference.
Best idea is to reverse the car up a bank and make sure the drooped wheel is off the ground with the shock off. When you're like this you still need to see 1" of shock shaft.
Oh and a note about the bumpstops - The best leverage will be had if all the spacer is between the chassis and the bumpstop - no spacer on the axle at all. It won't make a massive difference, but it will help a bit.
Remember, every time you make a change for more articulation, the compressed shock length you have to work with will get shorter at the same time the extended length will get longer.
Best case is to do all the work to your steering, bumpstops, brake lines, open the spring clamps, then back it up a bank and work out the shock length you need. You need to take 2 measurements - travel, and compressed length.
If the travel figure you need means you need to move the mounts, you'll only need to do it once and you'll ensure you buy a shock long enough to do the job rather than working with what you have, which I think won't be long enough.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
That's good - your shocks are likely to be close to the correct length then. Lowering the shock tower is a tricky one- that's a cast 40 series mount that's been welded on judging by your photo. You're problemy best to fabricate something new if you want to keep running the shocks that are in it.brendan_h wrote:i have more then 1inch shock showing on full compression. moe like 3inchs or more. i just need to work out how to lower the shock tower
If that's too hard you might be able to run a longer shock on the existing mounts, but wait until you have everything else sorted before you worry about that- like I said, once you have everything sorted you might find that 3" has come down a fair bit and in fact you need to raise the top mount more or lower the bottom mount to fit in a long enough shock.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
though i would bring this back.
got the shocks mounted fine and should be alright.. havent tested it yet as ive had to sort out other problems.
my main problem now is my front uni angles. it might not be a problem as i havent tested it but i say its going to be a problem. it does have a big spacer in and it could be causing big angle
as you can see there only about 4mm befor the uni is going to bind
got the shocks mounted fine and should be alright.. havent tested it yet as ive had to sort out other problems.
my main problem now is my front uni angles. it might not be a problem as i havent tested it but i say its going to be a problem. it does have a big spacer in and it could be causing big angle
as you can see there only about 4mm befor the uni is going to bind
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
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