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New ARB Compressor Cutaway Pic and thoughts

General Tech Talk

Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators

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Post by joel HJ60 »

Is anyone running a tank with there ARB unit yet? I'm thinking about one.
[b]1985 HJ60[/b]

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Post by Hoppy11 »

What is the model number for this NEW compressor///

Hoppy
[quote="RAY185"]Oh, and being able to lick your eyebrows is a sure way into a womans "heart". ;)[/quote]
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Post by lshobie »

My setup:

Compressor to water seperator to manifold. The manifold houses the solenoid for the front locker (rear locker is electric), the air then goes to my 2.5 gallon warn tank with quick connect and guage.

The tank is good but I should have gotten the 5 gallon.

Pics here:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/ ... old-7.html
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Dee
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Post by Dee »

Hoppy11 wrote:What is the model number for this NEW compressor///

Hoppy
cksa12
All the gear, No idea...
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Post by dbongard »

CKMA12

'C'ompressor
'K'it
'M'edium volume
'A'ir locker
'12' volt

CKSA12 is the Small version that's not ideal for inflating tyres.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER
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Dee
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Post by Dee »

dbongard wrote:CKMA12

'C'ompressor
'K'it
'M'edium volume
'A'ir locker
'12' volt

CKSA12 is the Small version that's not ideal for inflating tyres.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER
ahh sorry, wrong one...
while your here can you possibly shed any light on this question i asked the other day?
Dee wrote:anyone know if its saft to mount these things on their side?

I don't know what the go is re: oiling etc so Im not sure if it could be or if it has to sit upright. I was thinking about mounting it up under passenger dash on the firewall but didn't wanna have to fab a bracket to mount it upright...
All the gear, No idea...
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Post by lshobie »

So is there a CMLA12 coming out in the future??? Small, medium, large sounds like the next step:)
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Post by dbongard »

Dee wrote: while your here can you possibly shed any light on this question i asked the other day?
Dee wrote:anyone know if its saft to mount these things on their side?

I don't know what the go is re: oiling etc so Im not sure if it could be or if it has to sit upright. I was thinking about mounting it up under passenger dash on the firewall but didn't wanna have to fab a bracket to mount it upright...
Any position is fine. Upside down on your chassis rail if you want to. So long as you position the air filter housing somewhere cool and dry either by altering the compressor position or extending the filter position with an extension tube.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER
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Post by dbongard »

lshobie wrote:So is there a CMLA12 coming out in the future??? Small, medium, large sounds like the next step:)
We certainly set up that possibility. Time will tell. Right now one of the biggest selling features of the CKMA12 is its small size. All the other compressors with comparable flow out there are almost twice the size of it, and some people still struggle finding a place to shoehorn it into.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER
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Post by jessie928 »

in regards to water in the compessor line,
you have to cool the air before it gets into the tank, And have a drain at the low spot.

after threcompressor If you run a bit of copper across the front of the radiator twice and then a piece of hose that droops to bumper level with a t piece at the low point and a drain, thats all you need to capture the condensation and have a water free air system.

Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
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Post by Hoppy11 »

dbongard wrote:CKMA12

'C'ompressor
'K'it
'M'edium volume
'A'ir locker
'12' volt

CKSA12 is the Small version that's not ideal for inflating tyres.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER
dbongard wrote:(note : our RRP is $290.00)
daniel
Air Locker
Cheers
Is this the price at ARB stores, or every where it's sold
Hoppy
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Post by lump_a_charcoal »

jessie928 wrote:in regards to water in the compessor line,
you have to cool the air before it gets into the tank, And have a drain at the low spot.

after threcompressor If you run a bit of copper across the front of the radiator twice and then a piece of hose that droops to bumper level with a t piece at the low point and a drain, thats all you need to capture the condensation and have a water free air system.

Jes
Can you elaborate? I am just a dumb sparkie...
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Post by jessie928 »

lump_a_charcoal wrote:
jessie928 wrote:in regards to water in the compessor line,
you have to cool the air before it gets into the tank, And have a drain at the low spot.

after threcompressor If you run a bit of copper across the front of the radiator twice and then a piece of hose that droops to bumper level with a t piece at the low point and a drain, thats all you need to capture the condensation and have a water free air system.

Jes
Can you elaborate? I am just a dumb sparkie...
elaborate, hmm im not that articulate, but here goes.

the main air line from the compressor, run that to the front of the truck, to the front of the radiator
then get a bit of copper tube, run it ( horizontally) along the radiator,starting from the top put a bend in in when you get to the other side and run it back along the radiator so you are back where you started ( you can do this twice if you like. )
then get a bit of hose onto the output of the copper tube and run it down to your chassis . Put a t piece in it, ( make sure teh free end is pointing down) and run it back upto where you started.
then you can run the pipe back to yoru regulator,filter/switch block.

on the t piece you put below next to the chassis, attach a TAP so you can let water out.

this system will capture most if not all of the moisture in the lines before it gets to the regulator. because it cools the air in the lines as it goes past the copper across teh radiator and the drop in the line will catch the water.

hope that helps

Jes
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Post by lump_a_charcoal »

Ok that would only work when you are driving though wouldn't it?
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Post by jessie928 »

lump_a_charcoal wrote:Ok that would only work when you are driving though wouldn't it?
it will work teh best as long as the engine is running.
( or just your electric thermo fan if you have one)

even if the engine is not running, copper will dissipate heat quickly,

as the air goes from rubber to copper, it will still cool down a tad

Ideally, you want a finned copper tube, found on stationary air compressors.

Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
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Location: Melbourne

Post by dbongard »

lump_a_charcoal wrote:Ok that would only work when you are driving though wouldn't it?
If you are worried about water in your diff-locks then this should do the trick.

http://www.arb.com.au/resources/pdf/airLockers/4-04.pdf

It splices inline right at the diff.
It turns the air system into a one-directional system and cycles the water out onto the road. It also allows you to push the button and purge air straight from your compressor manifold out the exhaust port at the diff (to get rid of dust and moisture etc.)

-daniel
AIR LOCKER
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Post by Jeeps »

Is the purge designed just for vehicles that see a lot of offroad action and comp work or is it ideal for the family wagon too?
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Post by GRPABT1 »

dbongard wrote:
lshobie wrote:So is there a CMLA12 coming out in the future??? Small, medium, large sounds like the next step:)
We certainly set up that possibility. Time will tell. Right now one of the biggest selling features of the CKMA12 is its small size. All the other compressors with comparable flow out there are almost twice the size of it, and some people still struggle finding a place to shoehorn it into.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER
Make a CKLA12 and I will buy it. The size of the compressor is offsett by the lack of needing a tank to inflate tyres in less than a century.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
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Post by Squeak »

I have had one of the new 12V air compressor's (CKMA12) for over a year now. It's filled up 4 33" tyres at least 5 times a month in that time and still runs a treat. I haven't heard anything bad said about them either. The unit is installed behind the rear seat in the dual cab running to a moisture trap than to a Nitto style fitting.

IMO it produces no more moisture than any other compressor I've ever used. All compressors produce moisture and humid days will naturally produce more moisture. If your worried about it than install a moisture trap.
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Post by 84ZOOKSTA »

Mine failed this week, i had only had it for 6 months and only used 6 times.

What happend was where the shaft that attaches to the bit thats attached to the motor (The bit that goes round and makes the piston go up and down) Is only held on by a 4mm Bolt. This bolt has sheered off.

It is in with ARB to assess and repair or replace.

Hope it's back to me by next saturday.

Cheers

Image
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Post by dbongard »

84ZOOKSTA wrote:Mine failed this week, i had only had it for 6 months and only used 6 times.

What happend was where the shaft that attaches to the bit thats attached to the motor (The bit that goes round and makes the piston go up and down) Is only held on by a 4mm Bolt. This bolt has sheered off.
We had a few in the early builds that had oversized female threads that the bolt went into. The bolt doesn't actually shear off. It loosens up and backs out and then fatigues until it breaks. We're not happy about it either, but it is corrected now, we accept that it is no fault of the customer and ARB will take care of it for you no questions asked.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER
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Post by 84ZOOKSTA »

dbongard wrote:
84ZOOKSTA wrote:Mine failed this week, i had only had it for 6 months and only used 6 times.

What happend was where the shaft that attaches to the bit thats attached to the motor (The bit that goes round and makes the piston go up and down) Is only held on by a 4mm Bolt. This bolt has sheered off.
We had a few in the early builds that had oversized female threads that the bolt went into. The bolt doesn't actually shear off. It loosens up and backs out and then fatigues until it breaks. We're not happy about it either, but it is corrected now, we accept that it is no fault of the customer and ARB will take care of it for you no questions asked.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER

Other than the bolt breaking it is a good compressor, Yes it does get hot and Yes it is noisy but compared to the cheap ones that say they are rated at 90-150lt per min it shits over them and is more efficent with a much lower current drain than the chinese ones.


Cheers
Hookers are like bowling balls, You pick them up, put your fingers in them, then throw them in the gutter and they come back for more.
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Post by marin »

dbongard wrote:
We had a few in the early builds that had oversized female threads that the bolt went into. The bolt doesn't actually shear off. It loosens up and backs out and then fatigues until it breaks. We're not happy about it either, but it is corrected now, we accept that it is no fault of the customer and ARB will take care of it for you no questions asked.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER
If this is a known fault, is there a recall on certain serial numbers or build dates?

We shouldn't have to wait until it fails to have it replaced.

Don't want to be in the bush or halfway through a comp stage and have it fail due to a known problem.

marin
Rum injected

TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.

Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
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Post by dbongard »

marin wrote:
If this is a known fault, is there a recall on certain serial numbers or build dates?

We shouldn't have to wait until it fails to have it replaced.

Don't want to be in the bush or halfway through a comp stage and have it fail due to a known problem.

marin
It was totally random and effected less than 1 in 500 units.
Most companies wouldn't even admit to it at all unless it effected more than 3% (over 15 in 500 units).
If you have run it hard a few times and not had a problem then you should be set for life.
If you're worried then just give it a bit of hard work at home in the garage.
We designed them for heavy use...so don't be shy with it.
They like a good workout!
Then if all is OK after you're done then you can rest assured.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER
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Post by marin »

ok, that is good to hear, it more sounded like you had a whole batch of bad 1's, not just random 1's.

marin
Rum injected

TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.

Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
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Post by Weiner »

Got mine back, apparently the spring above the piston? buggered up, don't know how but its fixed now, so all is well.
'89 Hilux Single Cab - 3RZ, 35" Kreepy Krawlers, 4.88's, F & R Air lockers, RUF, Longfields, TG Highsteer, Highmount and no money
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Post by lshobie »

Mine just had the crank bolt come loose and bust, I contacted ARB and a quick picture was sent and a new compressor is being shipped to me - hassle free. I am completely happy with ARB for the way they handled this, pretty refreshing in todays chinese made crap marketplace.

Well done ARB.

Louis
HZJ79, 1HZ turbo, intercooled, 36" SS TSL's, ARB air, ARB front locker, factory electric rear locker, Dual batteries, Dual fuse blocks, 8274,
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Post by 84ZOOKSTA »

I am very happy with the 3 day turn around that ARB did,

I spoke to the guy at the shop and he said there was no way i would get it fixed or replaced in a week.

All it took was 3 Days and it was replaced with a new one.

Lets just hope the new one i got does not break the bolt off this time.

Cheers
Hookers are like bowling balls, You pick them up, put your fingers in them, then throw them in the gutter and they come back for more.
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