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Jst Curious - Comp truck set up thread ideas
Jst Curious - Comp truck set up thread ideas
So if you were going to build a winch truck, what would you consider to be of major importance and why?
Would you use any particular hardware and why?
etc etc....... (little bit of details too pls)
ideas, ideas, ideas
cheers
Would you use any particular hardware and why?
etc etc....... (little bit of details too pls)
ideas, ideas, ideas
cheers
Last edited by garfootd on Wed Sep 17, 2008 8:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Jst Curious - Comp truck set up thread ideas
BIG FAT WALLET.... Full of pinapples ($100)garfootd wrote:So if you were going to build a winch truck, what would you consider to be of major importance and why?
Would you use any particular hardware and why?
etc etc.......
ideas, ideas, ideas
cheers
V8s are nice, but you cant beat the sound of a turbo working the magic on a juiced up diesel.
im looking at about 15-20k...
im not looking to get everything like winches etc in tht jst like:
suspension
exo/barwork
motor and box (5L holden and th700)
lockers
ute chop
i can source most thing cheap so im jst after ideas so i can get ppl opinions etc cause i certainly dont no everything lol...
cheers
im not looking to get everything like winches etc in tht jst like:
suspension
exo/barwork
motor and box (5L holden and th700)
lockers
ute chop
i can source most thing cheap so im jst after ideas so i can get ppl opinions etc cause i certainly dont no everything lol...
cheers
Start simple and slowly build it up that way you learn as you go. It isn't as simple as building a truck like someone else as everybody has a different driving style and so different requirements.
The exception to that is engine. You want the basic setup to start with otherwise you'll end up in my situation. I changed from deisel to petrol and have to start from scratch and learn to drive again. (But my change has been extreme to say the least).
So keep a standard suspension setup as this will teach you to drive. If you feel the hard hits then you'll learn how to avoid them and so preserve you truck to finish the race. Then when you are really good with a standard rig you can go full coil over and really take advantage of it.
Power can be increased as you go but if you go with a 5.0 you will always be restricted as to how much you can get (cheaply that is). I'd save money from suspension and go for an ali motor up front.
Rollcage etc etc is mandatory. Don't strap in without one.
The same goes for a winch. Start out with a standard one as it will teach you good technique and then upgrade it as you get better. Using an electric winch teaches you about winching and driving etc as you can hear the load come on and off the winch. running 24v though a 12v is great the motor starts to scream when you get it right and will burn out if you get it wrong!
The exception to that is engine. You want the basic setup to start with otherwise you'll end up in my situation. I changed from deisel to petrol and have to start from scratch and learn to drive again. (But my change has been extreme to say the least).
So keep a standard suspension setup as this will teach you to drive. If you feel the hard hits then you'll learn how to avoid them and so preserve you truck to finish the race. Then when you are really good with a standard rig you can go full coil over and really take advantage of it.
Power can be increased as you go but if you go with a 5.0 you will always be restricted as to how much you can get (cheaply that is). I'd save money from suspension and go for an ali motor up front.
Rollcage etc etc is mandatory. Don't strap in without one.
The same goes for a winch. Start out with a standard one as it will teach you good technique and then upgrade it as you get better. Using an electric winch teaches you about winching and driving etc as you can hear the load come on and off the winch. running 24v though a 12v is great the motor starts to scream when you get it right and will burn out if you get it wrong!
93 Nissan Pathfinder / Terrano Turboed VH45, GQ Trans and T-case, coil overs, hydraulic winch and fair bit of other stuff. (Currently a pile of parts in the workshop)
Take note of Darin's advice, it is a good quality.
1. Set yourself a REALISTIC budget and stick to it,
2. Use as many off the shelf parts in the first instance, they are easier to get and cheaper replace (also easier to source of other competitors in events like OBC),
3. Look at what you intend to do in the short and medium term, it saves on doing modifications twice,
4. Accept that you don't need the best of everything to start, just have a good strong base to build on,
5. Weight is a big killer of winch vehicles. there can be more than 500+kg difference between vehciles, that counts when winching.
6. There is a thing as too much power... though fun it can cause issues.
my 2c
Jason
1. Set yourself a REALISTIC budget and stick to it,
2. Use as many off the shelf parts in the first instance, they are easier to get and cheaper replace (also easier to source of other competitors in events like OBC),
3. Look at what you intend to do in the short and medium term, it saves on doing modifications twice,
4. Accept that you don't need the best of everything to start, just have a good strong base to build on,
5. Weight is a big killer of winch vehicles. there can be more than 500+kg difference between vehciles, that counts when winching.
6. There is a thing as too much power... though fun it can cause issues.
my 2c
Jason
TIGGR6 - Got the plates but not the car...
i know this may be a really silly question. But what is a winch challenge about.
Im guessing you have to drive along up a track or what may be classed as a track for the race. once you stop you get out, hook up the winch and then power up the rest. then drive to the next bit untill you cant go any further up. or the truck is hanging from the cable upside down.
Are there any of these on around the newcastle area soon?
Would be interesting to go have a look.
Im guessing you have to drive along up a track or what may be classed as a track for the race. once you stop you get out, hook up the winch and then power up the rest. then drive to the next bit untill you cant go any further up. or the truck is hanging from the cable upside down.
Are there any of these on around the newcastle area soon?
Would be interesting to go have a look.
Geez Nelly which rock have you been hiding under? Never heard of a winch challenge? Better get your a$$ into gear and check one out.
Check here:
http://www.awwc.org.au/awwc_info/awwc_home.htm
http://www.procomp.com.au/Default.asp?MenuId=MLS_EVENTS
http://www.xtreme4x4sport.com.au/
Cheers,
Mark
Check here:
http://www.awwc.org.au/awwc_info/awwc_home.htm
http://www.procomp.com.au/Default.asp?MenuId=MLS_EVENTS
http://www.xtreme4x4sport.com.au/
Cheers,
Mark
imo 15K wont buy much of a rig. dzltech put it in the best way i have heard "there are 3 things power, reliabilty and price. but you can only have 2 of them without alot of/more money"
engine conversion will cost 6G alone, rollcage another 1500 (basic 4 point in chromoly) 2500 on tyres 2G min on suspension 1000 on car chop 1000 min on spare parts. the list goes on. if your running GQ diffs then youll need lots of CVs or cal offroad CVs.
it will add up quick and ive missed alot of stuff off the list
engine conversion will cost 6G alone, rollcage another 1500 (basic 4 point in chromoly) 2500 on tyres 2G min on suspension 1000 on car chop 1000 min on spare parts. the list goes on. if your running GQ diffs then youll need lots of CVs or cal offroad CVs.
it will add up quick and ive missed alot of stuff off the list
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
If you are in Vic that would be an acceptable buget for a production class car, engine mods are minimal, winches stock with a 6hp motor, cage, lockers, lights, tyres and away you go.
A competative challenge car would be minimum 50k if doing it yourself mostly.
Joel
A competative challenge car would be minimum 50k if doing it yourself mostly.
Joel
-Pre trip inspections/ servicing
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
if you dont do the engine conversion you will be able to do production class winch challenge, which would be AWSOME fun still, you just have to keep standard items on the car and not have a 10K winch on the front. production class means you can drive it to the event if you like aswell and will be cheaper to run and fix.
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
I would not go with the 5.0l personally, I have had guys pulling out 5L and putting in the LS1 gen 3, They have all said that they fit much better, and the power is so much better, and easy to get 300kw with a stock motor and a tune.
plus they are much lighter, no dizzy to get water in. You could do that for $7G doin work yourself.
steve
plus they are much lighter, no dizzy to get water in. You could do that for $7G doin work yourself.
steve
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LS1 & DURAMAX ENGINE CONVERSIONS, DRIVE IN DRIVE OUT. PATROLS AND CRUISERS
LS1 STANDALONE HARNESS $475ex
CUSTOM AUTO ELECTRICAL SPECIALISTS
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LS1 STANDALONE HARNESS $475ex
Ok heres a good start..
GQ wagon. $5K.. doesnt matter if the back end is rusted..
Chop into an extra cab ute as there is hardly enough room for a cage in a ute cab..
Chev ls1 engine with nv4500 and toyota gear drive t/case $7-8K
4130 cromoly cage and tray $2-3K
6 inch coils with drop arms and some decent shockies would do to start.. $6k.. but x-link with coil overs would be best if budget was no issue..
GU diffs with cal offoad CV's and air lockers $6-7K
36" pedes on beadlocked rims $3k
theres an entry level comp truck for around $25k doin it yourself...
GQ wagon. $5K.. doesnt matter if the back end is rusted..
Chop into an extra cab ute as there is hardly enough room for a cage in a ute cab..
Chev ls1 engine with nv4500 and toyota gear drive t/case $7-8K
4130 cromoly cage and tray $2-3K
6 inch coils with drop arms and some decent shockies would do to start.. $6k.. but x-link with coil overs would be best if budget was no issue..
GU diffs with cal offoad CV's and air lockers $6-7K
36" pedes on beadlocked rims $3k
theres an entry level comp truck for around $25k doin it yourself...
01 td42 GU patrol ute, with extra bits and pieces.
[quote="Bluefreak"][quote="ofr57"]flex is over rated :finger:[/quote]
You drive an IFS too, huh...???
:D[/quote]
[quote="Bluefreak"][quote="ofr57"]flex is over rated :finger:[/quote]
You drive an IFS too, huh...???
:D[/quote]
Get the comp spec arms from 2dextreme, these will save you changing the chassis bush every stage.Tomo_89 wrote:Ok heres a good start..
GQ wagon. $5K.. doesnt matter if the back end is rusted..
Chop into an extra cab ute as there is hardly enough room for a cage in a ute cab..
Chev ls1 engine with nv4500 and toyota gear drive t/case $7-8K
4130 cromoly cage and tray $2-3K
6 inch coils with drop arms and some decent shockies would do to start.. $6k.. but x-link with coil overs would be best if budget was no issue..
GU diffs with cal offoad CV's and air lockers $6-7K
36" pedes on beadlocked rims $3k
theres an entry level comp truck for around $25k doin it yourself...
FJ40???
No offense xxxhilux but you wouldent go backwards and buy a fj40, why would you go to something with leaf springs, for starters they ride like crap, if you spring over it, it will always fall over, toyota and LSD dont go together. for the same money you'd buy a patrol, chuck a hair dryer on the side chuck some 4" springs in it some 35's happy days.. there nicer to drive the interior is better the heater actualy works and there tuff. what more do i have to say. dont even bother with the V8 yet turbo the petrol or straight gas and turbo its cheaper, dont bother with coil overs, just stick a good coil in it and run a tuneable shock like kings, if you wanted to go alittle further chuck some hydrulic bump stops in it, stay away from body lifts just cut the guards. if you want it to be quick and handle good keep it relatively low. If you have any other questions message me. cheers.
a pootrol
ok youve got the car, youve got the engine. you running straight gas or duel fuel?
what id do
get the 700 built and manualised.
4 inch springs and koni or EFS shocks
extended bumpstops to suit
35-37s on beadlock rims
cal CVs
chromo cage and tray (if you want to run a tray)
good comfy seats that support you in tight situations but are still ok to get in and out
good harnesses again comfy, hold you in place and easy to get in and out of
a full car rewire to sort out any possible problems and make everything watertight aswell.
plus the other goodies like lights and GPS, winch, winchbar, other fancy shit.
you dont need a huge budget to have fun. 25K is what i keep getting told by competitive racers to be in the sport and not breaking every SS, you probably wont win but itll be fun. im up to about 20K and im not driving yet. so......
what id do
get the 700 built and manualised.
4 inch springs and koni or EFS shocks
extended bumpstops to suit
35-37s on beadlock rims
cal CVs
chromo cage and tray (if you want to run a tray)
good comfy seats that support you in tight situations but are still ok to get in and out
good harnesses again comfy, hold you in place and easy to get in and out of
a full car rewire to sort out any possible problems and make everything watertight aswell.
plus the other goodies like lights and GPS, winch, winchbar, other fancy shit.
you dont need a huge budget to have fun. 25K is what i keep getting told by competitive racers to be in the sport and not breaking every SS, you probably wont win but itll be fun. im up to about 20K and im not driving yet. so......
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
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