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shackle reversal q's
shackle reversal q's
i am considering doing a shackle reversal and am wondering if it is as simple as cutting and swapping the mounts around?
or is it easier to make new mounts?
any words of advice would be great
or is it easier to make new mounts?
any words of advice would be great
85 hi top drover, 31s, 2 inch exended shackles 2 inch bl.
88 tb42 swb mav,35 claws, 4 inch lift
88 tb42 swb mav,35 claws, 4 inch lift
Why do you want a shackle reverse Waandy? I built one years ago and they're a very mixed bag IMHO.
It's also a ticket to caster, front driveshaft and tyre fitment problems, which all need addressing. It's a fair bit more work than just the mounts.
Steve.
It's also a ticket to caster, front driveshaft and tyre fitment problems, which all need addressing. It's a fair bit more work than just the mounts.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
It's actually the opposite Waandy - the axle path is rearwards with a SR so the car drives over the top of the axle before it starts to climb. This can make for awkward behaviour.
General opinion is that an SR is more for high speed work and shackled at the front is better for obstacles.
Steve.
General opinion is that an SR is more for high speed work and shackled at the front is better for obstacles.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I disagree, with steep slopes SR is better IMHO cause the car does not tend to unload at the front as easily and roll backwards end over end. This is important in a SWB zook, mine climbs some crazy angles that mates in LWB comp trucks do with 1 inch over stock WB. I'm about to move the rear axle back another 2 or so inches for even more.Gwagensteve wrote:It's actually the opposite Waandy - the axle path is rearwards with a SR so the car drives over the top of the axle before it starts to climb. This can make for awkward behaviour.
General opinion is that an SR is more for high speed work and shackled at the front is better for obstacles.
Steve.
It really depends on the terrain you intend to drive and the desired result. Ride quality with SR could be gained by longer leaves which is easier with shackle front setup.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
I wasn't commenting on hill climbing ability, only climbing obstacles like coming out of ruts/climbing ledges etc.
Steve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
did one many years ago where we sleaved the chassis for shackle bushes so we didn't gain too much height. the ride was no different ( we kept shackle angles as per original), it understeered, which if you know how shackles on a normal zook cycle when cornering etc makes sense, and driveshaft behaviour was a problem. we actually ended up with more problems and handling quirks and gained nothing. will never do another one as the standard setup can be tweaked for much better results.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
i was thinking about this the other day, as if you wanted to stretch the wheelbase (at the front) you could go further, get better approach angle, all with less guard work due to the tyre moving rearward into the wheel well on compression..
Then I thought about the work involved & the level of engineering to go with it( especially with extended wheelbase, longer springs, chassis ext, p/s etc)… then simultaneously thought cut or tube front clip & coils.
Then I thought about the work involved & the level of engineering to go with it( especially with extended wheelbase, longer springs, chassis ext, p/s etc)… then simultaneously thought cut or tube front clip & coils.
All the gear, No idea...
I think the calmini SR would be interesting when added to a chassis extension on the front and with custom leaves with the centre pin in the right spot for maximum stuff and approach angle....one day.....
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
Posts: 3825
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 8:42 pm
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 8:42 pm
Location: in the sky , its a bird , its a plane ! No its super MOOSE !!!
yadda yadda yadda !!!
I have been running SR for years & I swear by it !!
(hilux cant be wrong ??)
better approach angle ,
no shackles digging in when climbing , coming out of ruts
you do get a bit of dive under braking , but with a stiffer shock , it can be rectified !!
rotating the diff covers the steeing geometry ,
& fitting of a hilux tailshaft gives you the longer slip-joint for the wheel travel !!
thats why the re-built beast is getting SR again !!!
I have been running SR for years & I swear by it !!
(hilux cant be wrong ??)
better approach angle ,
no shackles digging in when climbing , coming out of ruts
you do get a bit of dive under braking , but with a stiffer shock , it can be rectified !!
rotating the diff covers the steeing geometry ,
& fitting of a hilux tailshaft gives you the longer slip-joint for the wheel travel !!
thats why the re-built beast is getting SR again !!!
MissForbyNoob wrote:
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
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