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comp truck sumps
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comp truck sumps
hi all
got a mate whose building a fj45 comp truck with 350 chev. you guys got any recommendations for which sump to use? any particular brands/types?
Cheers
got a mate whose building a fj45 comp truck with 350 chev. you guys got any recommendations for which sump to use? any particular brands/types?
Cheers
Im here for the sausage!
sump
Dry sump setup would be optimal i think, if you dont mind spending $$$
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X2Big_GQ wrote:i see more magazine mechanics giving tips here? you have to run a rear hump sump because of front diff punkin hitting have seen commodore used but too close so just sorce a hq high volume sump suit small block there baffeld and cost around $400 high energy is 1 brand.
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wouldnt this depend on the location of his diff and the position of the engine?Big_GQ wrote:i see more magazine mechanics giving tips here? you have to run a rear hump sump because of front diff punkin hitting have seen commodore used but too close so just sorce a hq high volume sump suit small block there baffeld and cost around $400 high energy is 1 brand.
if hes building a comp truck its abit hard to say for sure there will be issues isnt it?
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Hulksta wrote:X2Big_GQ wrote:i see more magazine mechanics giving tips here? you have to run a rear hump sump because of front diff punkin hitting have seen commodore used but too close so just sorce a hq high volume sump suit small block there baffeld and cost around $400 high energy is 1 brand.
a real mechanic wouldn't call it a punkin.
http://www.mothfukle-engineering.com/
If you knew what you were on about you'd be exlaining how he can build his ownBig_GQ wrote:i see more magazine mechanics giving tips here? you have to run a rear hump sump because of front diff punkin hitting have seen commodore used but too close so just sorce a hq high volume sump suit small block there baffeld and cost around $400 high energy is 1 brand.
If you are going to build one or mod an existing one, depending on your setup, try and make the lowest part, or the part where the oil pickup is located at the rear of the sump....
the engine will usually be under its highest loads going up hills etc, so the oil needs to be returned to the lowest part of the sump asap.
Going down hill the engine is usually under no or not much load and can withstand periods without oil longer if it happens........
Windage trays are also useful to keep the oil low in the sump , and tho keep the crank from picking up the oil and dragging it away from the pickup....also wasting power turning the crank into a pump....
cheers
Harb
the engine will usually be under its highest loads going up hills etc, so the oil needs to be returned to the lowest part of the sump asap.
Going down hill the engine is usually under no or not much load and can withstand periods without oil longer if it happens........
Windage trays are also useful to keep the oil low in the sump , and tho keep the crank from picking up the oil and dragging it away from the pickup....also wasting power turning the crank into a pump....
cheers
Harb
Harb
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2244&im=1
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2244&im=1
Couldn't agree more, mine has the pan at the front, because I had to.Harb wrote:If you are going to build one or mod an existing one, depending on your setup, try and make the lowest part, or the part where the oil pickup is located at the rear of the sump....
the engine will usually be under its highest loads going up hills etc, so the oil needs to be returned to the lowest part of the sump asap.
Going down hill the engine is usually under no or not much load and can withstand periods without oil longer if it happens........
Windage trays are also useful to keep the oil low in the sump , and tho keep the crank from picking up the oil and dragging it away from the pickup....also wasting power turning the crank into a pump....
cheers
Harb
When going up steep stuff and giving it some berries it soon drains the pan of oil and it becomes switch off and snatch/hand winch time.
Going down hill you really only idle, so a rear sump pan wont drain of oil in any hurry at all.
I have since built another sump for a mate identical to mine except with a baffle to keep as much oil in the front pan as possible on steep stuff.
It will still drain eventually but it will supply oil for a longer time.
Cheers
eStruth wrote:You could well be right, I do conversions not comp trucksjust cruizin' wrote:Comp truck therefore I read all sorts of massive angles. Only one answer dry sump. Diff centre ..... blah blah blah, up hills ..... blah blah blah, oil pickup ..... blah blah blah, DRY SUMP.
I belive he is right, im a beliver in dry sump set ups. The problem they are very expensive and alot of people dont want to spend that type of money on a sump setup because they can get a sh!t load of extra mods for that money.
So best bet on a budget is to get a rear pickup sump with a high volume oilpump for added sercurity.
Its not cool, unless it's got boost :)
Re: sump
would a dry sump work on a daily drive/weekend toybad mudda wrote:Dry sump setup would be optimal i think, if you dont mind spending $$$
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The other problem would be spinning the drive belt off in mud and such.MARKx4 wrote:eStruth wrote:You could well be right, I do conversions not comp trucksjust cruizin' wrote:Comp truck therefore I read all sorts of massive angles. Only one answer dry sump. Diff centre ..... blah blah blah, up hills ..... blah blah blah, oil pickup ..... blah blah blah, DRY SUMP.
I belive he is right, im a beliver in dry sump set ups. The problem they are very expensive and alot of people dont want to spend that type of money on a sump setup because they can get a sh!t load of extra mods for that money.
So best bet on a budget is to get a rear pickup sump with a high volume oilpump for added sercurity.
Dry sumps are a PITA, take it from someone who has deal with plenty of them.....
the belts are prone to coming off with mud and crap going through and a direct enclosed drive system is expensive as......plus you have to find somewhere to mount the oil tank and if you have a seriously good engine, you really need to take the belt off and prime the oil before cold starts etc....
They solve one problem and create 25 others.
In some cases they are really the only way to go, but in our style of offroad I recon they are not.....IMHO anyway
unless of course you are doing Baja type races.........
the belts are prone to coming off with mud and crap going through and a direct enclosed drive system is expensive as......plus you have to find somewhere to mount the oil tank and if you have a seriously good engine, you really need to take the belt off and prime the oil before cold starts etc....
They solve one problem and create 25 others.
In some cases they are really the only way to go, but in our style of offroad I recon they are not.....IMHO anyway
unless of course you are doing Baja type races.........
Harb
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2244&im=1
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2244&im=1
x2bazooked wrote:what about an accumulator set up?
I first seen them on some 6BT cummins engines that were used as automated emergency fire pumps. They were fitted to keep the turbo's lubed with oil during shutdown.
I was planning on making my own for the 75. The Hungy wont see those sort of angles.
Saying all that I have modded a sump for a mates 400 SB drag car just buy installing a windage tray some baffles and some steel hinges around the pick up, works a fuckin treat.
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Comp Tray,Turboed 1HZ.
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It looks like any other sump, but mostly its shallower....want to be a wylie wrote:play nice children
dont know much about sumps
can someone tell me what a dry sump looks like of how it works sounds odd to me
It has a drain hole with a pipe or sometimes 2, one at the front and one at the rear, that connect to a scavenge pump that sucks the oil out of the sump and discharges that oil into a reservoir or holding tank.
another pump. usually just another waffer or segment of the scavange pump....ie 2 pumps in the same housing then sucks the oil from that tank and feeds it into the engine just like the normal pump.
its called a dry sump because there is no oil stored in the sump itself.....
the pumps are usually belt driven from the front of the crankshaft with a gilmer style belt..... like a little blower belt, but can also be directly driven from any rotating part of the engine ie front of the cam etc etc.... but most are belt driven.
Harb
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2244&im=1
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2244&im=1
Like you said use a rear sump, I must agree you are absolutely correct thereBig_GQ wrote:i think you should go and read another magazine and get more idears in your stupid south of the border melbourne head and take you crap box surf on 31 inch tyres and go touring like the old man you are.
But hang on you said that exactly two whole posts after I said it in this very same thread, glad to see I could inspire your young, dumb ass into the right answer to the original question
Now run along sunny boy and annoy someone who's intelligenec is that low that you might actually be able to better them in an
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