Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
what size hole for ln106 diff perch
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
what size hole for ln106 diff perch
moving my front diff forward soon an am just getting everything i need together.
what size bit do i need for the new hole in the perch?
any tips or hints to make the job easy?
what size bit do i need for the new hole in the perch?
any tips or hints to make the job easy?
FYI: if anyone is gonna try this in the future (on a hilux) i reccomend a 15mm bit. i used a 13mm bit cos it was 25 bucks cheaper than the 15mm, but it was a total pain in the arse to work with cos we had to file the hole wider. aswell as drilling the perches, you need to drill the plate that the bumpstop sits on so that your ubolts line up.
and instead of disconnecting the brakes, we just unbolted the whole caliper (2 bolts) and cut a small hole for the hardline to slip out of the bracket. saved us having to bleed the brakes etc.
and instead of disconnecting the brakes, we just unbolted the whole caliper (2 bolts) and cut a small hole for the hardline to slip out of the bracket. saved us having to bleed the brakes etc.
well, to give you an idea, im a concretor with NOOO mechanical experience and going at a VERY easy pace took me and a mate from 10-6 on saturday and from 1-3 on the sunday to get everything sorted.
i did it to fit 33s.
you'll need;
adjustable torque rod
adjustable or shortened draglink
driveshaft spacer
chassis stands ( i needed to chock them up about 100 mm with some wide hardwook blocks)
2 bottle jacks
sockets, spanners, shifters.
ruler
pliers
big flat head screwdriver (for draglink)
15mm bit and drill
a fluro light came in handy to see exactly what i was doing
4 inch grinder with cutting disc
hammer
just keep your wits about you and think things through and you should be right.
i did it to fit 33s.
you'll need;
adjustable torque rod
adjustable or shortened draglink
driveshaft spacer
chassis stands ( i needed to chock them up about 100 mm with some wide hardwook blocks)
2 bottle jacks
sockets, spanners, shifters.
ruler
pliers
big flat head screwdriver (for draglink)
15mm bit and drill
a fluro light came in handy to see exactly what i was doing
4 inch grinder with cutting disc
hammer
just keep your wits about you and think things through and you should be right.
moved it 35mm. - one of the perches is already has a hole in the right spot. all you have to do is widen it.dan_2818 wrote:Have been thinking of doin this aswell.
How far forward did you move the axle?
Where abouts did you get your shortened/adjustable draglink from and how much?
Thanks, dan
bought the adj draglink ages ago, cant remember who from, but it was about 170. wound all the way in, it was JUST short enough.
hey dudes.. yeh i had the same problem with the drill size, obviously buy a few sizes if ya dont have them aleady to work your way up, turning circle is still pretty good on mine, thats with front 35mm forward and rear diff 30mm back. I really cant see the need to move your diff forward to run 33's though.. i only needed to move mine for the simex 34's cuz they are a big tire, but i ran 33's and didnt need it, and i have a fair bit of travel in the front end thats for sure...
and th4e draglinks you can get made at superior or places like that i had a straight one made at 35mm shorter than standard, adjustable and it went straight in with very minor adjusting.
and th4e draglinks you can get made at superior or places like that i had a straight one made at 35mm shorter than standard, adjustable and it went straight in with very minor adjusting.
Single cab 106r - BBP Turbo 3rz
*Boondal Backyard Performance*
*Boondal Backyard Performance*
i needed to do it to fit 33s. i have 2inchs of spring lift. dont buy a few sizes thats a waste of money. just buy the 15mm steel bit. my turning circle is better cos the old draglink had HEAPs of play in it i can go full lock to lock without scrubbing (33x12.5 for reference) havn't tried it full lock while flexed up cos i havn't extended my brake lines yet.Lux_89 wrote: I really cant see the need to move your diff forward to run 33's though.. i only needed to move mine for the 34's cuz they are a big tire, but i ran 33's and didnt need it...
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 146 guests