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Guard Chop Guide??
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Guard Chop Guide??
Ok so just got some 35" MT Radial Claws for my mq and now need a serious guard chop to fit them (dont have any bodylift and dont want it) im figuring it has been done a few times before.. Does anyone have a link to a good guide or some tips for me? Should i cut them with a angle grinder or one of those nibbler things?
Any help would be great thanks!
Craig
Any help would be great thanks!
Craig
Not saying that its the be all and end all, but this is how I did my disco2.
Slunnies Disco2 guard chop
Slunnies Disco2 guard chop
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
All depends on what you want the finsih to be like i done mine as i was getting rid of rust and giving it a full respray anyway, i cut mine with a very thin cutting disc, then full welded mine in with oxy actelene and stick, ground it back then bogged any small imperfections also made sure that i rustcoated the inside so no future rust appears
I use a jigsaw was a perfect smooth cut, just tape up the paint work so it doesnt scratch.
This is what i did to mine
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/sho ... hp?t=47270
This is what i did to mine
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/sho ... hp?t=47270
Shane
so much neater curve and cleaner than a grinder, especially if you know how to use them... also alot more forgiving if you mess uplump_a_charcoal wrote:Good tin snips usually do the job mate, get some left and right cut ones and take your time.
Don't fully close the blades every cut, which stops small bumps appearing along the cut edge...
When my sierra was tubbed to fit some bigger tyres under it we just used a grinder (gently)...
One trick we did use though that made the job a whole lot easier was to get some 10mm x 10mm rod that we bent to match the radius of the wheel arch. This rod was then welded into place on the join of the new tub and existing panel to provide some "meat" to weld on (otherwise the sierra panels are approx 0.8mm thick which makes for some tricky welding).
The end result was pretty neat - the car looks pretty good with or without flares on it.
We didn't use the masking tape trick - the car was painted after all the body work was done.
One trick we did use though that made the job a whole lot easier was to get some 10mm x 10mm rod that we bent to match the radius of the wheel arch. This rod was then welded into place on the join of the new tub and existing panel to provide some "meat" to weld on (otherwise the sierra panels are approx 0.8mm thick which makes for some tricky welding).
The end result was pretty neat - the car looks pretty good with or without flares on it.
We didn't use the masking tape trick - the car was painted after all the body work was done.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Just finished cutting the front guards and putting on the flares on.. here are some pics..
Tabbed and bent the guard.. the black is chassis paint i used to stop the fresh cuts rusting
All the self tapping screws and washers to hold the flares on (under mount wide flares from hobzee's shop $85)
Yes my tyres still stick out a little bit.. might have to get rims with a smaller offset.. Pretty sure these are flipped..
BEFORE The cut flexed up.. lots of rubbing
Still gotta do the back but getting much faster at it now.. then i can add some pics of it all flexed up (well as much as leaves flex anyway)
Cheers Craig
PS Big :armsup: to Slunnies guide and everyones advice was a great help
Tabbed and bent the guard.. the black is chassis paint i used to stop the fresh cuts rusting
All the self tapping screws and washers to hold the flares on (under mount wide flares from hobzee's shop $85)
Yes my tyres still stick out a little bit.. might have to get rims with a smaller offset.. Pretty sure these are flipped..
BEFORE The cut flexed up.. lots of rubbing
Still gotta do the back but getting much faster at it now.. then i can add some pics of it all flexed up (well as much as leaves flex anyway)
Cheers Craig
PS Big :armsup: to Slunnies guide and everyones advice was a great help
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