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front axel seals on 1996 hilux
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
front axel seals on 1996 hilux
how hard is it to do a seal kit in the front axel n the hubs just new so need some feed back thanks hoping to do it myself not take to mechanics if i can help it haha
Piece of piss mate.
First step- Get a gregorys workshop manual- best $60 you'll spend.
Get a full knuckle rebuild kit, and two wheel bearing kits. Things to be aware of is you will need a 54mm socket for the big nuts on the stub axle- Ebay will help here.
buy at least 2kg of grease and enough paper towel/rags to dispose of at least 4kg- you'll need it!
when you remove the kingpin bearings, make sure you keep the shims in the same spots they came from- otherwise you'll flog out your inner axle seals really quicky.
put some anti-sieze on your cone washers when you put them back in, then when you have to re-do your bearings again in 40,000kms time, a simple tap on the side of the hub body with a hammer will free them, rather than bashing the snot out of the studs with a brass drift
Other than that, pretty straight forwards. Done it twice on mine, hubs at least a dozen times.
First step- Get a gregorys workshop manual- best $60 you'll spend.
Get a full knuckle rebuild kit, and two wheel bearing kits. Things to be aware of is you will need a 54mm socket for the big nuts on the stub axle- Ebay will help here.
buy at least 2kg of grease and enough paper towel/rags to dispose of at least 4kg- you'll need it!
when you remove the kingpin bearings, make sure you keep the shims in the same spots they came from- otherwise you'll flog out your inner axle seals really quicky.
put some anti-sieze on your cone washers when you put them back in, then when you have to re-do your bearings again in 40,000kms time, a simple tap on the side of the hub body with a hammer will free them, rather than bashing the snot out of the studs with a brass drift
Other than that, pretty straight forwards. Done it twice on mine, hubs at least a dozen times.
2005 HDJ100 Manual, ARB bar, XD9000 winch, ARB rooftop tent + awning, Drawers, Engel, 2" OME lift, 285/75R16 KM2's, iCom, HID XGT's.
I had some ridiculous quotes when trying to get a 54mm hub nut socket. up to $200. cause most tool shops didnt know what i wanted.
in the end i bought one from the guys who do the terain tamer parts for $22.
I was a bit unsure about doing it my self but its pretty straight forward. if you search you will find a step by step photos thing for it online.
its messy, but not too bad. be aware you kind of need to disconnect your brake lines (you can just bend them out of the way but its a bit scetchy. so get enough brake fluid to refill and bleed it.
i got my hub kit from terrain tamer as well and it came complete with wheel bearings.
in the end i bought one from the guys who do the terain tamer parts for $22.
I was a bit unsure about doing it my self but its pretty straight forward. if you search you will find a step by step photos thing for it online.
its messy, but not too bad. be aware you kind of need to disconnect your brake lines (you can just bend them out of the way but its a bit scetchy. so get enough brake fluid to refill and bleed it.
i got my hub kit from terrain tamer as well and it came complete with wheel bearings.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
Obviously this guy doesnt, otherwise he wouldnt be asking? Either way this is poor advice, there is nothing worse than butchering the nuts, worse for the next guy that wants to do it with his socket and cant because the socket doesnt fit a dinged up nut.. With the screwriver, you have no idea how much torque is on the locknut either..
There is a suitable socket on eBay now.. I use the Terrain Tamer knuckle kits, reasonable price, the quality with them is good, Koyo bearings, part number is SH3..
The brass drift on end of stud to remove collet method is the only one IMO, beating on the lockout works but damages them and deforms the collet seat..
There is a suitable socket on eBay now.. I use the Terrain Tamer knuckle kits, reasonable price, the quality with them is good, Koyo bearings, part number is SH3..
The brass drift on end of stud to remove collet method is the only one IMO, beating on the lockout works but damages them and deforms the collet seat..
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