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patrol rear bar with gaurd chop
patrol rear bar with gaurd chop
hi im looking for some photos and ideas on making a rear bar i have hayman reese towbar and want to keep it but get it high as possible
and yes i have searched and most photos have been moved or deleted
and yes i have searched and most photos have been moved or deleted
If i just overtook you head to your nearest mechanic
I've done mine my self not hard at all look up www.mudrhino.com.au and look at the D.I.Y section heaps of good stuff I did my chop and bar for about $300 - $400 for both and if I knew how to up load pic I would do it as well
I did my rear quarter panels and rear bar as well, it probably is not what you want but you can have a look and see if there is anything that will help you do yours.
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/show ... 736&page=3
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/show ... 736&page=3
1986 Nissan MK Deluxe, 1uzfe quad cam V8, Bull bar, Thomas Winch
Super Oscar Spotlights, Sliders with Body lift, And Long-range Fuel Tanks.
Super Oscar Spotlights, Sliders with Body lift, And Long-range Fuel Tanks.
done the qauters today pretty much went off what mud rhino did just went a little higher i have some pics but it was dark when i finished going to make rear bar with twin tyre holders next weekend
[img][img]http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93 ... C00152.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj93 ... C00152.jpg[/img][/img]
If i just overtook you head to your nearest mechanic
here is one off the mudrhino forums, which i am going to attempt to replicate once i have done a body lift and a 1/4 guard chop.
i just need to work out what was done with the towbar...as in wether or not the bar is welded to the side of it or if the part that holds the towball is welded to the top of the bar.
i was actually thinking of flipping my whole towbar over so it mount on top of the chassis and welding the extra bite on the outside of it, which is what it sort of looks like has happened here...but im not to sure.
i just need to work out what was done with the towbar...as in wether or not the bar is welded to the side of it or if the part that holds the towball is welded to the top of the bar.
i was actually thinking of flipping my whole towbar over so it mount on top of the chassis and welding the extra bite on the outside of it, which is what it sort of looks like has happened here...but im not to sure.
Anyone that uses that mudrhino process will end up with heaps of RUST!hjgq wrote:I've done mine my self not hard at all look up www.mudrhino.com.au and look at the D.I.Y section heaps of good stuff I did my chop and bar for about $300 - $400 for both and if I knew how to up load pic I would do it as well
Silcone+metal=RUST
Use urathrane!
I did mine similar to Mat_p. I used the haymen reece towbar. I cut the ends of, so I could mount them on the otherside so they went down instead of up.
I had to drill some extra holes in the chassi to get all the bolts in.
THen I welded 75x75 so it went to the cnrs, this is the same as the towbar.
Then used 50x75 or similar to go forwards to teh wheel arch.
I didnt taper mine on the cnrs though. As I found the bar tends to dig into the mud. So I wanted it to stick out slightly. Worked much better than the flush mount setup. It also made for a nice spot to put in twin pivots.
I had to drill some extra holes in the chassi to get all the bolts in.
THen I welded 75x75 so it went to the cnrs, this is the same as the towbar.
Then used 50x75 or similar to go forwards to teh wheel arch.
I didnt taper mine on the cnrs though. As I found the bar tends to dig into the mud. So I wanted it to stick out slightly. Worked much better than the flush mount setup. It also made for a nice spot to put in twin pivots.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
Natural cure should be fine, acid cure could cause issues. Either way silicon is shit to paint, better off using Everflex 240-PU by Adheseal.SIM79 wrote:Anyone that uses that mudrhino process will end up with heaps of RUST!hjgq wrote:I've done mine my self not hard at all look up www.mudrhino.com.au and look at the D.I.Y section heaps of good stuff I did my chop and bar for about $300 - $400 for both and if I knew how to up load pic I would do it as well
Silcone+metal=RUST
Use urathrane!
I agree with the silicon coment thats why I didn't use it at all just painted every thing first then when atached then bogged,sanded,bogged and painted about 5 coats outside and spray inside as wellnastytroll wrote:Natural cure should be fine, acid cure could cause issues. Either way silicon is shit to paint, better off using Everflex 240-PU by Adheseal.SIM79 wrote:Anyone that uses that mudrhino process will end up with heaps of RUST!hjgq wrote:I've done mine my self not hard at all look up www.mudrhino.com.au and look at the D.I.Y section heaps of good stuff I did my chop and bar for about $300 - $400 for both and if I knew how to up load pic I would do it as well
Silcone+metal=RUST
Use urathrane!
Rust is why I did mine the way I did, I was able to just spot-weld the seams the same as the factory method, plus used drain slots in the panel. Then sprayed plenty of rust proofing on the inside.
1986 Nissan MK Deluxe, 1uzfe quad cam V8, Bull bar, Thomas Winch
Super Oscar Spotlights, Sliders with Body lift, And Long-range Fuel Tanks.
Super Oscar Spotlights, Sliders with Body lift, And Long-range Fuel Tanks.
The pipe is 50mm nb 4mm wall. For the approach angle I change the possition of the winch (further in under the grill) . But I'm happy with the bar it's different strong and does what it was made for.
2000 GU Patrol TD42T 4in Flexi 7in procomp Allied Savanna's 35 KM'2 Lockers Barwork Draws Bla Bla Bla......Hardcore tourer
2010 Honda CRF 450X
2010 Honda CRF 450X
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