80's Factory turbo question?

[Remydog05]

Was the Turbo Diesel from factory a mechanical motor as the 1HZ or did they make them like the new electronic injection ones???

Also what torque do they pump out? About 350nm id guess?

[hdj105]

All 80 series TD's are mechanical, ~380Nm IIRC. The 100 series is a electronically controlled mechanical pump.

[vSAHARAx]

Yeah mate all the Turbo 80's were mechanical

Okay this is just from memory so it could be completely wrong

1990-1995 (1HD-T) SOHC 12 Valve Direct Injection Turbo
115Kw @ 3600RPM
362nm @ 2000RPM

1995-1997 (1HD-FT) SOHC 24 Valve (Multi-Valve) Direct Injection
125Kw @ 3600RPM
380NM @ 2500RPM

In November 2000 the 1HD-FTE Was introduced to the 100 series and 79 series utes.

SOHC 24 Valve (Multi-Valve) (Intercooled LC100) Electronic Direct Injection

100 series (Intercooled)

151Kw @ 3400RPM
430Nm @ 1800RPM

79 Series ute (No Intercooler)

122Kw @ 3400RPM
380NM @ 1400RPM

Please correct me if im wrong

[Remydog05]

Thanks All

Just bought a 92 with 209000 klms an old bloke towed his caravan with it.

Great rig!!!!!

Any power up options? Exhaust, Turbo Upgrade,etc? (Snorkle will help)

Im guessing the oil should be done at every 5000??

Can you still get the Bigend Bearing kits so I dont kill the thing or dont bother it should be ok for 300000klm?

[+dj_hansen+]

Thanks All

Just bought a 92 with 209000 klms an old bloke towed his caravan with it.

Great rig!!!!!

Excellent

Any power up options? Exhaust, Turbo Upgrade,etc? (Snorkle will help)

3" Mandrel Bent Exhaust, $1k minimum, from Turbo flange all the way out.
Can look at Turbo upgrades, but big dollars, the ct26 is a reasonable contender in stock trim/applications. Better to look at intercooler first, can build a simple front mount setup easily using eBay and local exhaust shop.
Definately get a snorkle if you plan to do any 4wd work.

Im guessing the oil should be done at every 5000??

Definately, Castrol Techion J-Max or Caltex Delo 400 and OEM filter.

Can you still get the Bigend Bearing kits so I dont kill the thing or dont bother it should be ok for 300000klm?

YES! These engines have a bad habit of lunching BEB due to poor quality bearings being used in the factory. Aftermarket ACL bearings are a good alternative to OEM parts, however these should have been changed by Toyota under a recall a few years ago. Have alook around the engine bay , inside door pillars, service books for a sticker. Failing that call Toyota with your VIN and they should be able to tell you, and then get up them to get them changed if they haven't been. Your looking at about $500 in parts labour to get them changed.

Id also be looking at doing a coolant flush and replacement using Toyota Red Coolant, checking the replacing the air filter (fleetguard/donaldson replacement is about $25) and giving it a good once over.

There is plenty of info on this forum and also on www.lcool.org on everything 80

Where bouts in Melbourne are you? Im at the end of the Eastern basically so can point you in the right direction for workshops etc around in the mid/outer east.

[Remydog05]

Thanks dj

Im in Frankston (Frankganistan!)

I was going to drop all the fluids out of it and replace them.
Coolant, Diffs, Transcase, Engine, etc. That way I can know where it is at from the start.

thanks for the oil tips, will track down a go K&N type filter also. Hope to get a snorkle in the next few weeks.

Thought a mandrel would be the go but as you said its always $$$.
If the Toyota Turbo set up is pretty good I might leave it that way. Should be more relaible then.


I phoned a Toyota Dealer that is a Friend of a friend and he said exactly that! Get the VIN and they can tell me if its already been done and if not they will do it! AWESOME!

Also tracked down a old Toyota Mechanic of Dads and he told me that I should get the Toyota Bearings because they come in diferent sizes and he seemed to think the aftermaket ones wont?? (No Idea?)

Do injectors or Pumps need doing in these things at an aprox klms??

[+dj_hansen+]

The jury is out on K&N... Toyota washable is the go, but comes with Toyota prices and are a bit finnicky to wash and dry from what i have read. Fleet guard/donaldson equivalent is around $25 and would be my pick. http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/catalo ... md=Mfrcode for part numbers.

Injector pump has a life span of 150 - 200k before needing looking at, and the injectors and timing belt every 100k i think, looking at roughly 3 gorillas for the lot to be done. Id be finding out if the timing belt has been changed in the last 100k (given that its at 209k chances are good) as a priority as if they wear too far or snap; pistons tend to meet valves.

For a diesel workshop id be heading to Dieseltec in Lilydale, quite a travel yes (depending on where you work) but he has a turbo 80 and from all accounts does some very good work.

Pretty sure you can get ACL bearings in varying sizes, call Repco/Bursons and ask but you should be able to get them done through toyota for free if you twist enough arms and pull the right strings.

When you speak to your toyota friend next, ask what price he can OEM filters for, id be interested to know

Come on Greg, what else have i forgotten?

[hdj105]

Come on Greg, what else have i forgotten?

I reckon you've got it summed up pretty well Dan.

Do the bigends if you can't verify when or if they have been done, then ensure the fuel system (pump and injectors) are up to spec., same deal as the bigends.

Toyota sell about 5 different thickness "standard" bearings, as well as oversize (for reground cranks), however ACL only offer the one standard size.

Then exhaust and intercooler and off you go. The factory turbo is fine if you don't go too high with the boost.

[Remydog05]

just an update!

The 80 is going well, found it has a small leak in the pump so it will be off to Desiel Tec or simlar for a cheak of pump, injectors etc.

Unfortunately Im having no luck so far with the Bigends being done because they are all trying to tell me different stories! ITS NOT OVER! Im just warming up.

Thanks for the info on the Exhaust, it is on the to do list. Still gotta get a Snorkel before to long too. (aahhhh budget!!)

What about the intercooler? Where did you put it and did it ad much heat to the engine bay?

Any comments about lift kits? Im thinking of going Dobinsons 3 inch with 285's on road and 33 simex offroad.

And by the wya havent heard back about the filters. but my 80 does have toyota red coolant still in it.

[+dj_hansen+]

just an update!

The 80 is going well, found it has a small leak in the pump so it will be off to Desiel Tec or simlar for a cheak of pump, injectors etc.

Unfortunately Im having no luck so far with the Bigends being done because they are all trying to tell me different stories! ITS NOT OVER! Im just warming up.

Thanks for the info on the Exhaust, it is on the to do list. Still gotta get a Snorkel before to long too. (aahhhh budget!!)

What about the intercooler? Where did you put it and did it ad much heat to the engine bay?

Any comments about lift kits? Im thinking of going Dobinsons 3 inch with 285's on road and 33 simex offroad.

And by the wya havent heard back about the filters. but my 80 does have toyota red coolant still in it.

Pump could just be the top seal.. which is about a 1 hour job and a decent repair manual if your comfortable with playing with expensive bits.

Keep up on the BEB

My intercooler is a safari front mount, but do a search in the members section for ferog's 80 GOREF, dumbdunce did a bootyfab front mount and all the info is there. Id prefer front mount over top as no cutting holes in your bonnet, doesnt turn into a heat soak when left idling, and shouldnt greatly affect your cooling capacity assuming the cooling system is in good order.

You could fit 285's and 33" with 2", but go for 3", but aim for plenty of downward travel and adjust your bumpstops to stop shocks topping out. Do a search for darren mccraes ROOBY, he has 3"ridepro with 37's

Got any pics

[Remydog05]

Still having no luck with the BEB so far, going to call Toyota Direct today and see how I go. One thing I did find out is that there is a few other recalls?? Not sure if this is right but this is what they came up with at the Dealer!

Quote from the email!

"After checking found 3 outstanding recalls
steering joint protector 25008
vavuum pump 6527h
towbar recall 66m07"

Seems Odd???

The pump is going to be done by Dads Mate who was a Toyota Mechanic for 30 Years and had 40's/60's/80's Crusiers.

Did some reading on the Intercoolers, look likes Safari and a Beaudesert Exhaust will be the go, again gotta get the $$. Found 80 GOREF but not ROOBY

Going to go 3inch Dobinsons for sure with a 4inch Boss Adjustable shock, just gotta get the $$ and the BEB & Pump needs to be done first.

Havent taken any Pics yet but still dont know how to get them up here anyway!

[MR Duck]

YES! These engines have a bad habit of lunching BEB due to poor quality bearings being used in the factory. Aftermarket ACL bearings are a good alternative to OEM parts.

ACL Duraglide 780 are definately the way to go part No 6B8396-STD
Yeah the Toyota bearings have a range of sizes for standard bearings giving a finer tolerence but they are only aluminium/tin bearings that dont have the same load carring ability that the tri metal bearings have. Bearing for one big end from toyota will cost similar to an entire set of ACL Duraglides. (if you are going to pay for them yourself) The sump will have to be removed to find out what sizes are needed for the toyota bearings and calculated off codes from the crank and con rods (something to consider if you were thinking of doing it your self) This is an extract straight from the ACL web site...
Aluminium Tin materials have been around since the 1960s. They have traditionally been the choice of Japanese and European manufacturers for low load, gas, passenger cars. As the loads developed by high horsepower late model engines increased, so too did the need for a stronger bearing material. Copper lead Trimetal bearings have been the answer for higher load applications and today make up ACL’s current range of Duraglide® and Race Series engine bearings, but as the world becomes more environmentally conscious, the need for lead free engine components has increased, without sacrificing the load carrying capacity required for modern engines.

From what I gather bonding the aluminium and tin may have been an issue in the earlier engines and they suffered de-lamination and there-fore bearing failure. This may be sorted by now but ACL still do a Trimetal bearing for some reason!
Oh and while I am on my soap box I would consider replacing the BEB bolts as they are torque to yeild even though they may still be in spec it is piece of mind to know that they are as good as new again (each time they are tightened to spec they get thinner, permenant deformation)

While this is all well and good I wish you all the best in obtaining a set of ACL duraglides, National parts who owns ACL have gone bust! or at least they were when we were trying to get a set about 2 months ago took ages to find a set that were old stock sitting on a shelf some where hopefully it might be easier down your way or good old ACL are up and going again.
Good luck in what ever you decide.

[Remydog05]

another update

getting the BEB & pump done early next week

unfortunately no help from toyota

exactly as you said it seems that its very hard to get the ACL bearing so t looks like im gunna have to pay for Toyota prices!

found a set a 2inch king springs for $100 with shocks off ebay that will do for now until I get around to the $$ for a 3inch kit