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recently changed my castor plates to drop boxes, and found it was a better ride on castor plates than drop boxes.
the rear end use to whip the back out braking and accelerating on the castor plates, which now is not an issue with the drop boxes. but now is really wobbly on the road and gets the death wobbles at about 70kmh.
Are you sure that you have the right drop boxes for the lift? On my truck, it was exactly the other way around, really scary death wobbles with caster plates and all sweet with drop boxes (I have a 5" lift).
Do the standard checks for wobbles - panhard rod bushes, wheel bearings etc etc.. Have you re-tightened the drop boxes since you installed them (both crossmember bolts & main chassis bolt)?
I've got drop boxes for a 4" lift, but the front's currently sitting at about 5", and haven't had any issues. I do still have castor correction bushes in though..
the guy i bought em off said the drop boxes suit a 4-6inch lift, they came out of a patrol with a 6 inch lift. but looking on the website they reckon they do 3-5 and a 5-7 inch dropboxes. i think i may have they 5-7s, wondering if i put a 30mm coil spacer in the front if this would have a good effect on this drama.
Yep, definately wrong size... You can run coil spacers. But i wouldnt. Just take em back and get the propper ones. As the tollerance for drop box's work in the coils favour as your springs begin to sag. eg... 3-5" drop box's- 4" at the moment and as it sags = 3" etc... So i think better to just get the right ones now.
As a guide the exact middle range for 4" drop box's is 150mm from spring perch to rubber bumpstop.
Hope this helps
TheBigBoy wrote:Yep, definately wrong size... You can run coil spacers. But i wouldnt. Just take em back and get the propper ones. As the tollerance for drop box's work in the coils favour as your springs begin to sag. eg... 3-5" drop box's- 4" at the moment and as it sags = 3" etc... So i think better to just get the right ones now.
As a guide the exact middle range for 4" drop box's is 150mm from spring perch to rubber bumpstop.
Hope this helps
yer, think thats the drama.
only paid peanuts for em though, and cant afford to fork out 400+ on getting the 3-5", and was planning on running coil spacers in the front anyway due to the front sagging a lot, will chuck in some coil spacers and see how that goes, also seen the rear panhard bush on the diff end is rooted, guessin this would affect it too.
obviously you can get new rubbers pressed into them, any old suspension shop gonna help me with this.
bigbluemav wrote:The worst steering wobbles I ever had were from a busted steering dampener (so busted it was missing) and frigged our panhard rid bushes.
Disregarding the whole cheap drop box issue, these are likely culprits.
brand new efs extreme steering dampener went on about 1 month ago. no problem there.
Might want to check how tight the chassis end panhard bolt is too. Mine was still tight (couldn't move it by hand), but not tight enough, and that was enough movement to cause the wobbles.
Putting your drop boxes on has changed your caster which has exposed some movement from worn bushes/bearings somewhere. Fix your caster back up and it might be right but I would also look at sorting out any worn parts before they get too bad while you have the opportunity.
What's the difference between ignorance and apathy? I don't know and I don't care.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
bigbluemav wrote:The worst steering wobbles I ever had were from a busted steering dampener (so busted it was missing) and frigged our panhard rid bushes.
Disregarding the whole cheap drop box issue, these are likely culprits.
brand new efs extreme steering dampener went on about 1 month ago. no problem there.
Mine got smashed in a comp, so no dampener at all. Longest drive ever from LCMP to Redcliffe, 4.5 hrs!! Couldn't go over 70km/h!!
Panhard bushes ALWAYS worth checking.
Big Dave, Scarborough, Qld
Loose Screws 4wd Racing Team
very simple to work out if yours are the correct size drop boxes, measure from the original radius arm hole down to the drop box hole , 100mm = 4 inch lift , 150mm = 6 inch lift or their abouts.
They only have to be close to that , but tire size does come into play, bigger the tire the less caster needed,eg 37 inch or bigger tire with a 7 inch lift can use a 5 inch drop box , but also as stated earlier check bushes and all hardware is tight.
It is impossible drop boxes do not drive better than plates if setup correctly, if you dont get it driving like a factory car take it to someone that knows nissans like ourselves or someone who is close to you, a lot of wheel alignment shops do not know about nissans!!!! so dont go their unless they have a good reputation.
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SuperiorEngineering wrote:very simple to work out if yours are the correct size drop boxes, measure from the original radius arm hole down to the drop box hole , 100mm = 4 inch lift , 150mm = 6 inch lift or their abouts.
They only have to be close to that , but tire size does come into play, bigger the tire the less caster needed,eg 37 inch or bigger tire with a 7 inch lift can use a 5 inch drop box , but also as stated earlier check bushes and all hardware is tight.
It is impossible drop boxes do not drive better than plates if setup correctly, if you dont get it driving like a factory car take it to someone that knows nissans like ourselves or someone who is close to you, a lot of wheel alignment shops do not know about nissans!!!! so dont go their unless they have a good reputation.
Sorry But what does tyre size have to do with it? I thought castor angle would be the same no matter what the tyre size. Can you explain the relevance to me?
TheBigBoy wrote:Ive been wondering about that aswell dave, but didnt want to say anything until I went throught it all in my head. I hope there is a good explanation.
he is right tyre size does have an effect on caster, caster is the angle between the tyre contact patch and the point that the tyre turns about. so a larger radius (bigger tyre) will move the contact patch forward creating a larger caster angle.
Thats how i have understood it anyway, i would need to draw it out to mays sure though.
I am happy to be corrected on this though
I had to play around with castor heaps on my last truck. As I had too, from a dodgy company who shall remain nameless "ALLSET SPRINGS". Did my suspension and gave me an undrivable truck back due to not castor correction at all.
We used a propper castor finder but also found an easier way. A small $20 magnetised level used on your middle fin on your diff centre was dead level. Which after checking a few lifted trucks which where all the same. Led me to believe your diff centre has to be dead level for castor to be correct "I may be wrong though".
So tyre size should not matter. Can someone clear this up???
It's not so much and measured angle value as such, but hmmm...best way to explain it is to draw an imaginary line down the axis of the king pin bearings to the ground, infront of the wheel, call this point A. Now, draw another imaginary line from the centre of the hub to the ground (so that is perpendicular to the ground plane, point B. Now, the distance between point A and point B is more of a concern than the actual caster angle, hence why larger tyres require less caster angle. This distance is the critical value, so with say 33" tyres you need X caster angle to achieve this distance, yet with 37" rubber you need less angle to get the same distance. So with the bigger tyre and the same caster angle, this gap between A & B increases beyond tolerances of the rest of the steering geometry, which can and most often causes the damn wobbles.
the points at the bottom, Left = A, vertical line = B...
Manufacturers list a caster angle which is related to the tyre size on the tyre placard but when you run larger tyres, you throw that angle out the windee man
cheers
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