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Feroza servicing

Tech Talk for Ford, Mazda, Daihatsu & Makes that currently dont have a home.

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Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:47 pm
Location: Geelong

Feroza servicing

Post by 1600dave »

Hi guys,
done a quick search but couldnt find what i'm after, it just keeps returning 1474 results no matter what i search?
also i have the workshop manuals off warfs but still cant find what i want.
anyway...
just picked up a 94 feroza with 211k on it, its a bit noisy, sounds somewhat like a diesel.
think its just valve clearance's, anyway, just wondering what the cold tolerances are, can only find the hot in the manual.
also what oil do you guys recommend bearing in mind the k's done?
also is there anything else you recommend changing while im at it, besides the obvious stuff like plugs and filters? anything to check for?
i've also noticed when over ~2500rpm it gets a bit of a high pitched whine/sqeal, seems its only when under load, and changes to somewhat higher pitch at full throttle. is this a common problem?
thanks, and sorry if this has been asked heaps of times before
dave
Posts: 136
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:58 am
Location: Whangarei NZ

Re: Feroza servicing

Post by meece4x4 »

1600dave wrote:Hi guys,
done a quick search but couldnt find what i'm after, it just keeps returning 1474 results no matter what i search?
also i have the workshop manuals off warfs but still cant find what i want.
anyway...
just picked up a 94 feroza with 211k on it, its a bit noisy, sounds somewhat like a diesel.
think its just valve clearance's, anyway, just wondering what the cold tolerances are, can only find the hot in the manual.
also what oil do you guys recommend bearing in mind the k's done?
also is there anything else you recommend changing while im at it, besides the obvious stuff like plugs and filters? anything to check for?
i've also noticed when over ~2500rpm it gets a bit of a high pitched whine/sqeal, seems its only when under load, and changes to somewhat higher pitch at full throttle. is this a common problem?
thanks, and sorry if this has been asked heaps of times before
dave

are you sure it's not a whistle/whooshing type noise ... feroza's are known to whistle when the cat is blocked or the muffer is restricted. mine came in @ 2400rpm and got louder/higher till it sounded like a 747 on full throttle, drop kicked the cat into the middle of next week and fitted a freeflow exhuast system (with the original cast manifold tho) and she was away :D

the wifes Daihatsu Terios sounds like a church organ driving down the road ... so im picking it's a Daihatsu thing

i may be wrong but im sure you check/adjust the valve clearance when the motors hot anyway.

I usually run 20/50 oil in mine the manafacture varies between oil changes depending on whats avaliable at the time. altho I usually try and run Amsoil when i can get it.
Last edited by meece4x4 on Sat Nov 29, 2008 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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1988 LWB ,IFS, LSD, POS, PAJ, 31" M/T's on bling rims, Snorkel, 2" Lift ,new shocks ,XD9000 winch
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Post by murcod »

Check if extractors have been fitted or if it's got the original cast iron manifold. The noises might be associated with it having an original manifold- they crack and leak.
David
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:47 pm
Location: Geelong

Post by 1600dave »

yeah its got the stock manifold still, might have to pull the heat shield off and see if i can see anything there. prone to crack in any particular spots?
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Post by MightyMouse »

Inlet 0,18mm Cold - 0.20 Hot
Exhaust 0.25 Hot & Cold
( usual disclaimers )

It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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Post by murcod »

1600dave wrote:yeah its got the stock manifold still, might have to pull the heat shield off and see if i can see anything there. prone to crack in any particular spots?
You should be able to see fine cracks and carbon where it's been leaking.
David
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Location: Trip Trip Trappin' across a bridge

Post by Goatse.AJ »

Might be worth doing the timing belt as it SHOULD have been done at 200,000k. Might as well replace the water pump while you're doing that.
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
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Location: Melbourne-Australia

Post by MightyMouse »

Ive got a stock exhaust manifold if your stuck although extractors are a bonus and not very dear.
( usual disclaimers )

It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Posts: 14187
Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2003 8:09 pm
Location: Trip Trip Trappin' across a bridge

Post by Goatse.AJ »

Just on the exhaust, if your catalytic converter is shot (as evidenced by the whistling), replacing it and putting a 2" system on from there back will give you a noticeable improvement in grunt, particularly lower in the rev range.

Extractors will make it even better.

I found that mine (running an Applause motor with the slightly peakier cam and 31" Baja Claws) is as quick, if not a little more so, off the mark as a stocky with standard tyres.

You can probably pick up a cheap Commodore cat from a wrecker if you're trying to save $$$.
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
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Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:47 pm
Location: Geelong

Post by 1600dave »

yeah been planning on a complete new exhaust including extractors, and using a commodore cat, or whatever is cheap and suitable, due to bigger size it should give less restriction, and throwing in a new O2 sensor too.
havent had the chance to do the valve clearances yet, did pull the heat shield off though.

Image
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Post by murcod »

Yep, no surprises there! :D

The stock manifold is a crappy design so just ditch it and buy some extractors. Replace the cat if it's stuffed, but I'd leave the rest of the system unless there's something seriously wrong with it. You'll get some nice low rev torque gains that way. I reckon my old Feroza lost a lot of bottom end torque after I did the back section in 2" as well.
David
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:47 pm
Location: Geelong

Post by 1600dave »

ah okay, thanks for the tip. rest of the system isnt too bad, no holes yet.
also think it might need the valve stem seals done, as its used a bit of oil, doesnt blow any smoke though and cant see any leaks. have to get a compression tester onto it first though.
are the seals hard to do on these?
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