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Wiring kill switch into diesel vehicle?
Moderator: -Scott-
Wiring kill switch into diesel vehicle?
Last night I bought an old 40 series Land Cruiser with a 2H diesel engine. At present the only way to turn off the engine is to stall the vehicle intentionally. I'm looking to fit a kill switch in there so that I could just flick the switch down to off and that would turn the engine off.
If it was a petrol car, no worries, I would just use one of the ignition wires, but this is my first ever diesel, and so without the spark plugs, distributor and coil, I'm lost as to what wire to use.
Any tips?
If it was a petrol car, no worries, I would just use one of the ignition wires, but this is my first ever diesel, and so without the spark plugs, distributor and coil, I'm lost as to what wire to use.
Any tips?
kill switch
not to sure on a 40 but my 4runner has a wire on the back of the diesel pump if you take it off it stops
Iirc the 2h had problems with the fuel shut solenoid which cost an arm and a leg from Toyota so I'm guessing this is the problem. Options :
Get a new one
Get a 2nd hand one,check it works before handing over the $$$$
Fit a lever to the fuel shut linkage so you can shut it off from the cab. This is an agricultural fix for it but works and costs bugger all. Basically use some decent size tube with a handle at the end in the cab,run it through your firewall and hook it up to the fuel shut off linkage so you can manually operate it when you want.
Get a new one
Get a 2nd hand one,check it works before handing over the $$$$
Fit a lever to the fuel shut linkage so you can shut it off from the cab. This is an agricultural fix for it but works and costs bugger all. Basically use some decent size tube with a handle at the end in the cab,run it through your firewall and hook it up to the fuel shut off linkage so you can manually operate it when you want.
if the edic motor is stuffed, then you won't be able to wire a kill switch.
The cable idea above will work, I imagine a choke cable would do the trick. mounted in the dash, and connected to the lever on the pump.
The 2h pump with edic does have three positions though, stop, drive, and overinjection (for cold starts). If cold starts are an issue then you will need to rig it so you can control the lever in all positions.
According to the toyota 2h manual i have here, some early model 2h's didn't have an edic motor, instead they had a stop cable. Does this old 40 have one of them instead?
The cable idea above will work, I imagine a choke cable would do the trick. mounted in the dash, and connected to the lever on the pump.
The 2h pump with edic does have three positions though, stop, drive, and overinjection (for cold starts). If cold starts are an issue then you will need to rig it so you can control the lever in all positions.
According to the toyota 2h manual i have here, some early model 2h's didn't have an edic motor, instead they had a stop cable. Does this old 40 have one of them instead?
No idea. Don't even know what an edic motor is.oldmate wrote:According to the toyota 2h manual i have here, some early model 2h's didn't have an edic motor, instead they had a stop cable. Does this old 40 have one of them instead?
But it looks like the weather is clearing up, so I'll poke my head around this afternoon and see what I can find.
I believe this is what I have, as I didn't see any electric wires on what I assume to be the pump. Except, I do not have any cable set up on it. I found this and pushed it forward (in the direction of the arrow where it says stop) and that cut out the engine:oldmate wrote:According to the toyota 2h manual i have here, some early model 2h's didn't have an edic motor, instead they had a stop cable. Does this old 40 have one of them instead?
Issue here is that it need to be pushed forward to cut the motor off. So a choke cable won't work as that is for pulling backwards. Or I'll have to run the cable all the way forward to the front of the car, then loop it back...
Anyways, since I'm not going to use an electronic kill switch, I'm going to end this thread here, and put a specific one in the Toyota section because there may be a factory set up for this that I could get...
i just have a cable on my sd33t
bestthing is you have to push the cable back into be able to start
makes it hard to start if you dontgod for theiving little buggers that tried to knock it off last night
bestthing is you have to push the cable back into be able to start
makes it hard to start if you dontgod for theiving little buggers that tried to knock it off last night
What I like to say to the buy a GQ thing....
my MQ is a convertable, hows about your GQ! The Finger
my MQ is a convertable, hows about your GQ! The Finger
if you have an edic, just get the pushrod from the wreckers and wire it up.phil94delica wrote:You could just use a door central locking motor, they are cheap and easy enough to mount.
You will also need the EDIC relay, probably need to get one from the wreckers?
Youl see it also takes input from the oil pressure switch. This is so that if your engine loses oil pressure it shuts the engine off before its damaged.
You need the relay as the EDIC motor will draw more current than your ignition wiring can supply. So either get the proper EDIC relay, or get 2 normal relays and wire it up yourself.
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