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Nt vs wt?
Nt vs wt?
I know this has probably been discussed many times before. But I'm posting this off my phone from work. And it won't let me search. So please forgive me haha.
I'm going to look at a nt tomorrow with 31s on it. Because the track isn't as wide will this mean my turning circle will be greatly reduced? And other quick pros/cons of nt or wt?
Thanks very much.
Greatly appreciate any feedback
I'm going to look at a nt tomorrow with 31s on it. Because the track isn't as wide will this mean my turning circle will be greatly reduced? And other quick pros/cons of nt or wt?
Thanks very much.
Greatly appreciate any feedback
turning circle will be smaller... which is a plus!
But lateral stability will be less than a wt.. which is a big negative... but you can always convert it to wt diff's if you have the time and knowhow..
nt's also run smaller everything in the driveline.. but they have slightly better gearing..3.9's vs 3.7's..
if its a 1.3 nt than it will have the handbrake on the back of the t/c.. which is good and bad..
in my opinion the wt is a better car out of the box.. but the next bloke may say that the nt is! meh
But lateral stability will be less than a wt.. which is a big negative... but you can always convert it to wt diff's if you have the time and knowhow..
nt's also run smaller everything in the driveline.. but they have slightly better gearing..3.9's vs 3.7's..
if its a 1.3 nt than it will have the handbrake on the back of the t/c.. which is good and bad..
in my opinion the wt is a better car out of the box.. but the next bloke may say that the nt is! meh
NT Pros:
Cheaper
Sits out of the ruts so gets hung up less
4 pinion front diff (if you plan a front lock right)
NT Cons:
No heavy duty axle parts
Falls over
More body damage
tyres foul worse on inner guards etc.
WT Pros:
Heavy duty CV's/axles available
More disc brake conversion etc parts
better clearance with bigger tyres on inner guard
More stable
Newer car - should be in better nick
WT cons:
Wider spring spacing - higher roll stiffness, tyres hit springs on lock
Yucky 80's dashboard
wheel mounted handbrake - more junk on axle - more hassle to do discs, more stuff to get damaged
taller diff gears
2 pinion front diff.
WT axles on a NT sierra are better than a whole WT sierra though due to narrower spring spacing making for more flex/better clearance on the NT, so if the price is right, buy the NT and look to convert to WT.
Basically, the US aftermarket ony supports WT sierras and so NT axles etc can't be beefed up easily.
Steve.
Cheaper
Sits out of the ruts so gets hung up less
4 pinion front diff (if you plan a front lock right)
NT Cons:
No heavy duty axle parts
Falls over
More body damage
tyres foul worse on inner guards etc.
WT Pros:
Heavy duty CV's/axles available
More disc brake conversion etc parts
better clearance with bigger tyres on inner guard
More stable
Newer car - should be in better nick
WT cons:
Wider spring spacing - higher roll stiffness, tyres hit springs on lock
Yucky 80's dashboard
wheel mounted handbrake - more junk on axle - more hassle to do discs, more stuff to get damaged
taller diff gears
2 pinion front diff.
WT axles on a NT sierra are better than a whole WT sierra though due to narrower spring spacing making for more flex/better clearance on the NT, so if the price is right, buy the NT and look to convert to WT.
Basically, the US aftermarket ony supports WT sierras and so NT axles etc can't be beefed up easily.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Won't be doing anything too crazy in it. Weekend bash here and there. Yeah it's a 1.3. With the different gearing to the wt, will it sit ok on 90-100 on the motorway with larger tyres?
The only thing which needs doing on it is replacement of the transfer case rubber mounts. Is that hard to do? Ie; pull out gearbox kind of job? Lol
Thanks again
The only thing which needs doing on it is replacement of the transfer case rubber mounts. Is that hard to do? Ie; pull out gearbox kind of job? Lol
Thanks again
Exactly what bit is smaller, except for smaller bolts on the driveshaft flanges and (slightly) smaller rear wheel bearings?Bad_Zook wrote:
nt's also run smaller everything in the driveline.. but they have slightly better gearing..3.9's vs 3.7's..
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
the higher gearing will make it slightly more sluggish on the high way in a w/t but you change down to forth on hills in a sierra any way so its not that much different. I never had a problem with 31 m/ts and standard gearing i only went transfer gears 1.6efi and lower diff gears cos i like to spend money
I pulled my tranfer case out in my half hour lunch break, with about 10 mins to spare, so you should be able to do the transfer mounts reasonably quickly.--sinner-- wrote: The only thing which needs doing on it is replacement of the transfer case rubber mounts. Is that hard to do? Ie; pull out gearbox kind of job? Lol
Thanks again
i have a 85 nt drover (rebadged zook)
im running 31s and i sit on 100kms at 3000 revs.
depending on what type of 4x4ing you want to do you might be able to get away without changing gearing to run the bigger tyres. i do burn my clutch in very boggy deep situations. id say run it and if you start doing this look at gearing as i am now.
just my view anyways
cheers
waandy
im running 31s and i sit on 100kms at 3000 revs.
depending on what type of 4x4ing you want to do you might be able to get away without changing gearing to run the bigger tyres. i do burn my clutch in very boggy deep situations. id say run it and if you start doing this look at gearing as i am now.
just my view anyways
cheers
waandy
85 hi top drover, 31s, 2 inch exended shackles 2 inch bl.
88 tb42 swb mav,35 claws, 4 inch lift
88 tb42 swb mav,35 claws, 4 inch lift
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