hi guys,
I know this topic has been discussed before however I'm still reading mixed stories on if SD33's generally do overheat when working on the beach? is the standard radiator up to scratch or am i best to custom fit a alloy one?
Red devil have offer to cut the tanks off and clean/inspect the cores, $99. Sounds cheap to me.
I filled my radiator with staight 33% HCl recently and didn't get much out, I'm concerned its not blocked and the heat issue is from factory.
Anyone got experience, recommendations? thoughts? anyone tried alternate radiators without to many major modifications? are the alloy burnout king radiators on ebay anygood? nozzles seem small compared with factory radiator. thanks
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SD33T Overheating
SD33T Overheating
70 series ute
my car would sit 40-50% on the gauge when traveling through the dunes etc it wasnt until i gave it a real flogging that the temp would get any hotter, i attribute this mostly to the turbo being cranked on. i was doing a bit of maintanence on the motor and discovered this as well http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24491 i think a new radiator would help, if its the stock one they are getting pretty old now.
Both sd33t i have owned have always ran hot once under load and on hard high way runs.
I too am considering a different radiator.
Im also thinking along the lines of perhaps the turbo cooking the oil too much. I am considering about fitting a oil temp gauge to have a look at the situation.
My understanding is that the sd33 was orig designed for stationary and fork lift work, then they bolted it into a car and later fitted a turbo without adding extra oil cooling or capacity
I too am considering a different radiator.
Im also thinking along the lines of perhaps the turbo cooking the oil too much. I am considering about fitting a oil temp gauge to have a look at the situation.
My understanding is that the sd33 was orig designed for stationary and fork lift work, then they bolted it into a car and later fitted a turbo without adding extra oil cooling or capacity
keep your cooling system up to scratch and you shouldnt have a problem.
make sure you dont have a cracked head or blown gasket.
also be sure that your pump isnt over fuelling as high EGT's will also result in high coolant temps.
i run my 292k old sd33t on 35's, 3" exhaust, front mount intercooler, flat up a 30 degree hill for 10-15 mins on 38 degree day and temp sits just above half.
beach work the motor needs to breath, instead of loading it up at 2000-2400rpm, drop back a gear and let it breath and rev around 2800-2900rpm
make sure you dont have a cracked head or blown gasket.
also be sure that your pump isnt over fuelling as high EGT's will also result in high coolant temps.
i run my 292k old sd33t on 35's, 3" exhaust, front mount intercooler, flat up a 30 degree hill for 10-15 mins on 38 degree day and temp sits just above half.
beach work the motor needs to breath, instead of loading it up at 2000-2400rpm, drop back a gear and let it breath and rev around 2800-2900rpm
God of Magnificant Ideas!
IF the $$$$$ permit ...... go for a new alloy radiator and NEVER have another issue.
If not then a good cleanout of the existing unit will certainly help
( dont forget to do the engine aswell )
Replace the radiator hoses and heater hoses etc....... old ones will fail dramaticly when under "abnormal load"
Fit an external oil cooler ( major cooling aid for turboed SD33's ) & make sure it has a thermo fan too !!! Most auto shops can get in a decent unit with a fan as part of the unit.
Preferably have the switch to run automatically.
& .........
run a decent thermo fan ( or twin 10" fans).
you should easilly fit a 16" unit in front of the aircon condensor / radiator
The switch here is better off being set manually, IE: a simple on/off toggle switch...... as soon as you think the going is about to get tough .... turn on the fan
never run hot again
If not then a good cleanout of the existing unit will certainly help
( dont forget to do the engine aswell )
Replace the radiator hoses and heater hoses etc....... old ones will fail dramaticly when under "abnormal load"
Fit an external oil cooler ( major cooling aid for turboed SD33's ) & make sure it has a thermo fan too !!! Most auto shops can get in a decent unit with a fan as part of the unit.
Preferably have the switch to run automatically.
& .........
run a decent thermo fan ( or twin 10" fans).
you should easilly fit a 16" unit in front of the aircon condensor / radiator
The switch here is better off being set manually, IE: a simple on/off toggle switch...... as soon as you think the going is about to get tough .... turn on the fan
never run hot again
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Sweet...that makes me feel better after having just spent nearly $1200 on a full custom built one.V8Patrol wrote:IF the $$$$$ permit ...... go for a new alloy radiator and NEVER have another issue.
Got that covered too. Have a pretty expensive pump and full external cooled system. Top mounted with hole in hood (bonnet) and also a fan for it. Hoping it is all I ever need!Fit an external oil cooler ( major cooling aid for turboed SD33's ) & make sure it has a thermo fan too !!! Most auto shops can get in a decent unit with a fan as part of the unit.
Preferably have the switch to run automatically.
yup got that covered too! Keeping stock engine fan but adding electrics in front of rad./IC, no air-con for me. Not sure how shroud will turn out but the aluminum radiator is supposed to be matched to stock mounting and or size.run a decent thermo fan ( or twin 10" fans).
you should easilly fit a 16" unit in front of the aircon condensor / radiator
The switch here is better off being set manually, IE: a simple on/off toggle switch...... as soon as you think the going is about to get tough .... turn on the fan
Haven't got the engine built yet so can't comment on performeance. It is all being assembled as I type and then has to be shipped over here so be awhile before I can repaort on mods/performance/gains.
I sure as hell hope so!never run hot again
www.rmp-o.com
Can you please shed soem light on a typical oil cooler setup. eg, where you you tap into the oil system, type of cooler, return, etc , etc.V8Patrol wrote:IF the $$$$$ permit ...... go for a new alloy radiator and NEVER have another issue.
Fit an external oil cooler ( major cooling aid for turboed SD33's ) & make sure it has a thermo fan too !!! Most auto shops can get in a decent unit with a fan as part of the unit.
Preferably have the switch to run automatically.
Thanks
i do - EGT sensor just after turbo dump.
need more info bodes...
what size tire are you running?
stock 4.3 gears?
5 sp right? (just checking incase you got N/A sd33 converted)
i got SWB with sd33t, boosted @ 15psi, reasonable front mount, 3" exhaust, heaps of fuel, 35s, 4.6 diffs and @ 100ks my temps are about 220-300c depending on incline of road. the front mount intercooler has dropped my EGT's by over 100 degrees. if i power up a hill...5th gear fully loaded and max boost, EGt's will just see 400 to 420. (i reckon i could dump more fuel into her!!!)
when i had 35s and 4.3 diffs and no cooler, no tune, and stock boost, EGT's would be around 380-400 @ 100 k's.
Rosey55 - I still think there is nothing wrong with factory SD33T cooling system, as long as it is kept up to scratch!!!
need more info bodes...
what size tire are you running?
stock 4.3 gears?
5 sp right? (just checking incase you got N/A sd33 converted)
i got SWB with sd33t, boosted @ 15psi, reasonable front mount, 3" exhaust, heaps of fuel, 35s, 4.6 diffs and @ 100ks my temps are about 220-300c depending on incline of road. the front mount intercooler has dropped my EGT's by over 100 degrees. if i power up a hill...5th gear fully loaded and max boost, EGt's will just see 400 to 420. (i reckon i could dump more fuel into her!!!)
when i had 35s and 4.3 diffs and no cooler, no tune, and stock boost, EGT's would be around 380-400 @ 100 k's.
Rosey55 - I still think there is nothing wrong with factory SD33T cooling system, as long as it is kept up to scratch!!!
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Most oil coolers are just a typical generic unit pipeing running back n forth through a finned setup, they cost under the $100 mark.pongo wrote:Can you please shed some light on a typical oil cooler setup. eg, where you you tap into the oil system, type of cooler, return, etc , etc.
Thanks
You can however get coolers with a small fan setup built in to them, these were around the $180 mark. Biggest advantage was this unit could be located anywhere as it does not rely on a moving vehicles airflow.
Repco had ( I dont know if they still carry them nowdays tho ) an addaptor setup that bolted up to the oilfilter conection area, then a Z9 oil filter attatched to the addaptor ...... which is one of the reasons I liked em... spin off filter with an easy and cheaper replacement cost.
The addaptor had an inlet and outlet port which diverted the oil out of the filter ( to a cooler ) and then back to the filter ( return line )
Form memory they cost $85..... I dont know if they are still available tho.
I'd think a specialist engine shop would be able to provide such a unit if they are unavailable from the usual auto shops.
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Yeah, sorry... i have put a factory turbo setup on an n/a, it's a 5sp ute, 31" tyres and 4.8 diffs. no intercooler at this stage and just running stock boost, but at about 100km/h (97 odd on gps) it sits somewhere between 400-450 normally. still running n/a pump with a boost controller to control the diaphragm and fueling. same as you, egt probe in exhaust just below dump pipe. i still only have the standard 2" exhaust at the moment though, dumped just behind the cab with no muffler. the coolant temp does seem to get up a bit though, normally about 2/3 of the gauge after not very long on the freeway, but it sits there, doesn't overheat...84mksd33t wrote:i do - EGT sensor just after turbo dump.
need more info bodes...
what size tire are you running?
stock 4.3 gears?
5 sp right? (just checking incase you got N/A sd33 converted)
i got SWB with sd33t, boosted @ 15psi, reasonable front mount, 3" exhaust, heaps of fuel, 35s, 4.6 diffs and @ 100ks my temps are about 220-300c depending on incline of road. the front mount intercooler has dropped my EGT's by over 100 degrees. if i power up a hill...5th gear fully loaded and max boost, EGt's will just see 400 to 420. (i reckon i could dump more fuel into her!!!)
when i had 35s and 4.3 diffs and no cooler, no tune, and stock boost, EGT's would be around 380-400 @ 100 k's.
Rosey55 - I still think there is nothing wrong with factory SD33T cooling system, as long as it is kept up to scratch!!!
hi guys, it really sounds to me as though the standard radiators in these trucks or at least the cooling systems are not up to scratch. I have been surfing net and sooo many people with SD33 have heat issues when working hard under load. My truck is fine on the road, once it hits the sand she cooks.
My engine fan clutch feels stiff to me, even when engine is hot. I am missing my lower shroud which probably contributes to the issue. This is commonly remove when you do body lift, I removed body lift years ago but didn't replace shroud.
Just noticed I've done my head gasket for the second time in 3 months. Was towing another 4x4 with a trailer through soft sand over Christmas and temps went high, must have been what did it. Once its hot its hard to cool, I can rev the engine in neutral and it still takes about 5mins to come down to half way.
I just bought a massive oil cooler for an international acco which I'm going to try and fit somewhere. I also have a Perma-cool oil filter relocation kit coming, this will allow use of Z9 and also allows for new cooler to be installed.
Got digital pyro on its way from states. It also has a thermocouple for engine coolant. I'm pretty sure standard gauge is accurate.
I'm seriously considering fitting a VX commodore radiator with thermos. The inlet and outlets are on the correct side. The ports are a different diameter though so i need to find a fitting to change radiator hose sizes, anyone know if these exist? these radiators are common, cheap and cool V8's, do people think they'll handle the diesel heat?
I could fit falcoon thermos to the current radiator however I read people who have done this still see heat when under load. This would be the cheapest/simplest option, I may still try this. I would also get the radiator rodded to ensure its not blocked.
Has anyone noticed toyota landcruisers never heat up? Whats the major difference? Are their radiators much better? I've flogged 100 series in sand and the gauge doesn't budge off 1/4. Is there merit to fitting a cruiser radiator? 60 series radiators are pretty big, put the mq to shame.
Keen for anyone's comments/further suggestions.
Thanks
My engine fan clutch feels stiff to me, even when engine is hot. I am missing my lower shroud which probably contributes to the issue. This is commonly remove when you do body lift, I removed body lift years ago but didn't replace shroud.
Just noticed I've done my head gasket for the second time in 3 months. Was towing another 4x4 with a trailer through soft sand over Christmas and temps went high, must have been what did it. Once its hot its hard to cool, I can rev the engine in neutral and it still takes about 5mins to come down to half way.
I just bought a massive oil cooler for an international acco which I'm going to try and fit somewhere. I also have a Perma-cool oil filter relocation kit coming, this will allow use of Z9 and also allows for new cooler to be installed.
Got digital pyro on its way from states. It also has a thermocouple for engine coolant. I'm pretty sure standard gauge is accurate.
I'm seriously considering fitting a VX commodore radiator with thermos. The inlet and outlets are on the correct side. The ports are a different diameter though so i need to find a fitting to change radiator hose sizes, anyone know if these exist? these radiators are common, cheap and cool V8's, do people think they'll handle the diesel heat?
I could fit falcoon thermos to the current radiator however I read people who have done this still see heat when under load. This would be the cheapest/simplest option, I may still try this. I would also get the radiator rodded to ensure its not blocked.
Has anyone noticed toyota landcruisers never heat up? Whats the major difference? Are their radiators much better? I've flogged 100 series in sand and the gauge doesn't budge off 1/4. Is there merit to fitting a cruiser radiator? 60 series radiators are pretty big, put the mq to shame.
Keen for anyone's comments/further suggestions.
Thanks
70 series ute
this is what is going in front of my SD33T
and here is the external oil pump which will feed the top mount oil cooler...
I have the same probs as a lot of people, my current engine is the stock SD33 N/A. 335ks on the engine, supposed to be rebuilt less than 5000ks ago. My water pump is fine, radiator seems to be fine and not clogged or restricted and the gauge seems accurate. Also has new thermostat which works well, new fan clutch too. She does almost exactly the same as Rosey55s truck. Oddly enough I can reduce or control the heat slightly by cranking the heater full blast. And she does run a little cooler in the winter when it is sub-zero temps.
I think my pump may be overfueling. I haven't messed with it but the pump has been adjusted by POs. I had injectors done and it runs better but obviously didn't do anything for the temps. One thing to note about mine is that the truck spent its whole life near sea level, then I bring it up to 6500'. When I first got it she smoked pretty bad white smoke most of the time. It was really hard to start too. On declines it would start misfiring and blow blueish white smoke. It also lacked abit of power. After I had the injectors done it got about half better but was not fixed and still had some of the probs just had more power. I played with the timing and got it running better. Right now I have the timing advanced to the max and she starts and runs best this way. There is no more misfiring on declines and no more white smoke. It also dones't hardly smoke when started and is black now. It will smoke under load but also is black now. Thing is temps have come up a bit with the timing advanced so much. I think the pump is out of adjustment and I am trying to compensate with the timing.
Any ways, I think the pump and how much fuel you are dumping in has a big effect on temps along with timing. I don't think it hurts to clean out the oil cooler either. From what I have seen they get pretty nasty. If you have gone through your cooling system the only thing left might be to send the radiator off to a shop for flush and or rebuild. I think the stock cooling systems can work alright on the SD33s but they need to be in top order and if you have played with the engine , like adjusted the pump then temps may very well come up.
I have a new SD33T being built right now. I didn't spare any expense and am doing a lot of mods. A big concern in the build is keeping temps down. Along with the above radiator we are also running a large front mount intercooler. The external oil cooler will be top mount with a fan and vents or a scoop. The exteranl pump is so we can shave the sump and I don't have to worry about oiling on steep inclines. I think an intercooler helps a lot with keeping EGTs down. And tuning the pump right by somebody who knows what they are doing is a must!
I don't really have anything else to add...
and here is the external oil pump which will feed the top mount oil cooler...
I have the same probs as a lot of people, my current engine is the stock SD33 N/A. 335ks on the engine, supposed to be rebuilt less than 5000ks ago. My water pump is fine, radiator seems to be fine and not clogged or restricted and the gauge seems accurate. Also has new thermostat which works well, new fan clutch too. She does almost exactly the same as Rosey55s truck. Oddly enough I can reduce or control the heat slightly by cranking the heater full blast. And she does run a little cooler in the winter when it is sub-zero temps.
I think my pump may be overfueling. I haven't messed with it but the pump has been adjusted by POs. I had injectors done and it runs better but obviously didn't do anything for the temps. One thing to note about mine is that the truck spent its whole life near sea level, then I bring it up to 6500'. When I first got it she smoked pretty bad white smoke most of the time. It was really hard to start too. On declines it would start misfiring and blow blueish white smoke. It also lacked abit of power. After I had the injectors done it got about half better but was not fixed and still had some of the probs just had more power. I played with the timing and got it running better. Right now I have the timing advanced to the max and she starts and runs best this way. There is no more misfiring on declines and no more white smoke. It also dones't hardly smoke when started and is black now. It will smoke under load but also is black now. Thing is temps have come up a bit with the timing advanced so much. I think the pump is out of adjustment and I am trying to compensate with the timing.
Any ways, I think the pump and how much fuel you are dumping in has a big effect on temps along with timing. I don't think it hurts to clean out the oil cooler either. From what I have seen they get pretty nasty. If you have gone through your cooling system the only thing left might be to send the radiator off to a shop for flush and or rebuild. I think the stock cooling systems can work alright on the SD33s but they need to be in top order and if you have played with the engine , like adjusted the pump then temps may very well come up.
I have a new SD33T being built right now. I didn't spare any expense and am doing a lot of mods. A big concern in the build is keeping temps down. Along with the above radiator we are also running a large front mount intercooler. The external oil cooler will be top mount with a fan and vents or a scoop. The exteranl pump is so we can shave the sump and I don't have to worry about oiling on steep inclines. I think an intercooler helps a lot with keeping EGTs down. And tuning the pump right by somebody who knows what they are doing is a must!
I don't really have anything else to add...
www.rmp-o.com
yes I've already pulled and cleaned my factory engine oil cooler, there was a bit of rust and crud in there but nothing to rave about
turning your heater on effectively increases the size of your radiator as there is a water circuit and small heat exchanger under your dash
comments like 'by turning my heater on drops my temps' makes me think the standard radiator is not knocking the heat out of the water. I also use to get an improvement when I turned on my heater, shame I ripped it out...
turning your heater on effectively increases the size of your radiator as there is a water circuit and small heat exchanger under your dash
comments like 'by turning my heater on drops my temps' makes me think the standard radiator is not knocking the heat out of the water. I also use to get an improvement when I turned on my heater, shame I ripped it out...
70 series ute
well I shouldn't have said "oddly enough.." because I know why it drops temps with the heater on.
I don't think it would hurt to upgrade the radiator, I am! If you can get a cheap 60 series, why not give it a go? It could very well be that your truck and mine both could benifit from a rebuilt radiator, a new one or an upgrade. The only thing I have not done in my cooling system is rebuild the radiator and check the fins on the water pump imperpellar. I am also sticking with the more fuel the hotter she runs and if not tuned right it will run hot too even if it is running good. Right now I am just buying time with my old N/A SD33...in 6 months I will have a new SD33T and am pretty sure I won't have to worry about temps anymore.
I don't think it would hurt to upgrade the radiator, I am! If you can get a cheap 60 series, why not give it a go? It could very well be that your truck and mine both could benifit from a rebuilt radiator, a new one or an upgrade. The only thing I have not done in my cooling system is rebuild the radiator and check the fins on the water pump imperpellar. I am also sticking with the more fuel the hotter she runs and if not tuned right it will run hot too even if it is running good. Right now I am just buying time with my old N/A SD33...in 6 months I will have a new SD33T and am pretty sure I won't have to worry about temps anymore.
www.rmp-o.com
your new build sounds great, i'm sure you'll solve your issues with what you've described
I agree the overfueling will generate heat, however I still think the cooling system should be able to cope. My truck goes like a rocket for what it is so could be overfueling however it doesn't blow excessive smoke which might indicate a good tune/setup.
Once I sort the cooling probs I plan to install intercooler and crank boost. A bit of extra fuel should help this. Been doing some short test with waste gate disconnected, truck hauls ass with boost up to 13psi, haven't been game to push it any higher as yet
I agree the overfueling will generate heat, however I still think the cooling system should be able to cope. My truck goes like a rocket for what it is so could be overfueling however it doesn't blow excessive smoke which might indicate a good tune/setup.
Once I sort the cooling probs I plan to install intercooler and crank boost. A bit of extra fuel should help this. Been doing some short test with waste gate disconnected, truck hauls ass with boost up to 13psi, haven't been game to push it any higher as yet
70 series ute
When some1 works out how to keep a SD33T cool let me know.. I have a large front mount oil to air oil cooler. The heat exchange on the side of the block has been removed and plated off. The plate has been drilled and tapped and a hose from it back into the side of the head fitted.
Has a new rad........ But MOST rad places only list 1 rad for the N/A and turbo engines, as a found out after i paid 600$ for one.. If you count the number of tubes on a factory SD33T LWB wagon with A/c and tow pack you will find it has a shit load more tubes...
I have a N/A motor with factory turbo set up thats done 350 000kms might just be time for a freashen up. Another thing that healped keeps temps down a little was advancing the timing a few degrees
hope this helps
Sterlo
Has a new rad........ But MOST rad places only list 1 rad for the N/A and turbo engines, as a found out after i paid 600$ for one.. If you count the number of tubes on a factory SD33T LWB wagon with A/c and tow pack you will find it has a shit load more tubes...
I have a N/A motor with factory turbo set up thats done 350 000kms might just be time for a freashen up. Another thing that healped keeps temps down a little was advancing the timing a few degrees
hope this helps
Sterlo
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