Rear axle

[lokka]

Man that is some wild shiat all them brackets and components were all tig welded by the looks too verry time consuming with the welder but saves time with the grinder tig is the way to go and is why i love mine so much ..

Slunnie your a champ them ideas will help heaps and il have no probs mounting the seats for the coils as they are only about 60 mm wide the bolt on plate hangs over the side of them so it will be a no brainer like i thought and i also found a lsd 60 center today il get it at the $$$

[Slunnie]

Ahhhh of course, that makes it too easy. Whe I did the measurements I was thinking it would be a little more complex due to the scrub radius.


Dallas does exceptional work, he's gifted at his work. I think the TIG is good and it presents really well which is important for him with it being his core business and that vehicle being a show piece, but other than that I'd be just MIGing MS.

[nottie]

Ok sorry to have started a slap fight but hay

Once you go fitting cromo front a rear to say 60 diffs you end up with the same price as a hilux /80 diff convertion in rangie housings.

Once you add lockas to either cost stayes the same.

With the hilux / 80 convertion to rangie housings you end up with the same strength diffs in the axel and CVs to the 60 diffs(almost same axel and exactly same CVs) but the crown wheel and pinion in the 60 centre obviously is a bit stronger.

Cost is the same
My point is -- With the marginal ( in my opinion) strength in pinion crownwheel going to a full 60 diif is it really worth it considering the fab work involved. Shore great if you can do it yourself but if paying someone i dont see it as a huge gain


Also Lokka once you get the additional parts to get you width correct it adds to the price further.


Does anyone know the pinion size as in width for a 60 and a hilux and 80.
I have them all in the shed but carnt be assed going out there tonight.

Nup my way will be cheaper i rekon i allready have some 80 rear hubs. Lux IFS wont be hard to get and resonably priced id say i rekon all my parts including new seals brakes and the like wontg cost me much over a grand maby $1200 then its my time and mig wire and gas to do the work ...

Whats it worth to do lux/80 diffs to rover housings ????

I think you are missing my point entirely.
Like i have said the cost to do both are the same. When you go full cromo gear and lockas for both its the same.
To buy an 80/hilux centre opposed to buying 60 complete diffs its the same ( thereabouts) but to do the rangie 80/hilux convertion there is no fab work as there will be for the 60 swap. There is a bit of machine work but cheaper to do then full fab work.
So overall for joe blogs to go to a fab shop and get them to do the convertion to 60 diffs will cost more then if they were to fit 80/hliux centres to rangie housings.
Of coarse to do these yourself will cost a heap less.
I do know that if in queensland if i have a accident with rangie houisings i will be covered buy my insurance but if they found diffrent diffs that were not enginered / passed then id be up shit creek.
Its fine if you want to go putting 60 diffs under a rangie but in my opinion i dont see a gain over the other avenues.
lc60 LSDs are crap as well as any toyota LSD. I would save the small amount you said it will cost and buy a detriot for the rear and air for the front.

[dobbo]

1095mm from weld to weld.

Hmmm, maybe you could fab the mount slightly up and over the swivel something along the lines of how Stinkyfab did this coilover mount.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=739440

That is getting me................


Slunnie, it's porno.

[Slunnie]

1095mm from weld to weld.

Hmmm, maybe you could fab the mount slightly up and over the swivel something along the lines of how Stinkyfab did this coilover mount.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=739440

That is getting me................


Slunnie, it's porno.

Sweet isn't it! I wish I had a CNC cutter.

[lokka]

Ok sorry to have started a slap fight but hay

Once you go fitting cromo front a rear to say 60 diffs you end up with the same price as a hilux /80 diff convertion in rangie housings.

Once you add lockas to either cost stayes the same.

With the hilux / 80 convertion to rangie housings you end up with the same strength diffs in the axel and CVs to the 60 diffs(almost same axel and exactly same CVs) but the crown wheel and pinion in the 60 centre obviously is a bit stronger.

Cost is the same
My point is -- With the marginal ( in my opinion) strength in pinion crownwheel going to a full 60 diif is it really worth it considering the fab work involved. Shore great if you can do it yourself but if paying someone i dont see it as a huge gain


Also Lokka once you get the additional parts to get you width correct it adds to the price further.


Does anyone know the pinion size as in width for a 60 and a hilux and 80.
I have them all in the shed but carnt be assed going out there tonight.

Nup my way will be cheaper i rekon i allready have some 80 rear hubs. Lux IFS wont be hard to get and resonably priced id say i rekon all my parts including new seals brakes and the like wontg cost me much over a grand maby $1200 then its my time and mig wire and gas to do the work ...

Whats it worth to do lux/80 diffs to rover housings ????

I think you are missing my point entirely.
Like i have said the cost to do both are the same. When you go full cromo gear and lockas for both its the same.
To buy an 80/hilux centre opposed to buying 60 complete diffs its the same ( thereabouts) but to do the rangie 80/hilux convertion there is no fab work as there will be for the 60 swap. There is a bit of machine work but cheaper to do then full fab work.
So overall for joe blogs to go to a fab shop and get them to do the convertion to 60 diffs will cost more then if they were to fit 80/hliux centres to rangie housings.
Of coarse to do these yourself will cost a heap less.
I do know that if in queensland if i have a accident with rangie houisings i will be covered buy my insurance but if they found diffrent diffs that were not enginered / passed then id be up shit creek.
Its fine if you want to go putting 60 diffs under a rangie but in my opinion i dont see a gain over the other avenues.
lc60 LSDs are crap as well as any toyota LSD. I would save the small amount you said it will cost and buy a detriot for the rear and air for the front.

Just a fix up i ment to post this last night and stuffed up cause i was tired

Reason im goin 60 diffs is i cant afford the exta for the axles at the same time as buying the lux/80 diffs and other bits to make em fit like i said before 1200 and il have the 60 diffs in and running it would cost me that if not more just for the axles to do the toyo diffs in rover housings ...

As for the LSD being at the right price means free so it would be good and i can get a mate to tighten the LSD for a carton

Like i said before whats it worth to do a toyo to rover conversion ???? like i said axles would have to be up near the grand to 1200 mark ... Then id need to fit late disco front stubs and hubs and get the right drive flanges for the front and depending on axle length for the rear i may even have to change the rear hubs and stubs for late disco stuff ...

Nottie were did you source your axles from and what did they cost did you fit them to rangie housings and use late disco gear or just got some late disco housings you say that its the best way to go how about telling us how and what was done to yours and were you sourced the bits and what it all cost if i could justify the price id do it as im a tight ass and will look for the most cost effective way of doing things

[awright]

I love my maxi-drives...just my 2 cents.

[Bush65]

I love my maxi-drives...just my 2 cents.

Others do as well, but different strength ballpark

[rover_owner]

Just wondering why no-one has mentioned the GQ Patrol front diff? I've just fitted one to my Rangie and there was very little fab work to be done.



The spring mounts and panard bracket were cut off the old Rangie and re-welded onto the Patrol one (twice, got the forward position and angle wrong the first time). The only other thing I had to do was fab up the steering arm (although i might have to have one made up yet as haven't got a straight answer about the legal side on that one). The brake lines use the same thread pattern you just have to re-route two and block off two, all done. The only down side i can tell so far is that the diff sits back slightly and brings the wheel closer to the rear of the guard (but I'm also making a 2" bodylift kit) and the pumpkin is a whole 30mm diameter bigger, that's almost 15mm closer to the ground, but as some one else mentioned 31" is 2" more than the Rovers 29" so I'll live with that. Now I just have to get the 80 series rear sorted.... Laters.
Oh, and the whole thing cost me around $400 plus mine and a friends time, Thanks Robbo!!!

[zook4fun]

what the width of the patrol diff? that is a hell of a lot easyer than the lux/cruiser centers or 60 diffs. what do you need to do to the back diff to fit it in?

you could make up a longer arm to move the diff forward a bit off the fire wall. p38 control arms a longer but buy a fair bit.

[lokka]

Only probs with the gq and 80 combo is the width gain you will need about 3in of flare per side to cover them up

[rover_owner]

3" flares lokka ?????
I'll take some piccies in the morning (friday) and post them for you to look at zook4fun.
With the Patrol offset sunraisers and 31x10.5's i've got on at the moment, you do gain a bit of width in the track, but I've got an old set of 1" (25mm) flares on that I had in the shed, and they just about cover the tread. I like the extra width as it should add extra stability, and I think it looks better too!!!
I used the Patrol radius arms and although the mounts on the diff housing are about 25mm wider (I think, can't remember exactly) than the Rangie width, when you divide that by 2 it's only about 12.5mm per side. If your going to worry about that, get your rig at full articulation and have a look how much the rubbers flex .
As I said though I'm going to give it a 2" body lift soon but if I still think it's a problem (the guard clearance) I can always move the radius arm mounts on the chassis forward a little or chop the guards as I want to run 33's for the road and 35's for play.
The other benefit of using Patrol/Toyota diffs is the ratio's you can get as standard. If you want to run 33's get the 4.11's and it puts your gearing pretty close to the 29" and 3.54 on the Rangie.
Laters,
Jim...

[lokka]

Ok if ya only going to run the std size rims and a 31x10.5x15 yeah ya will get away with std flares but why go to the trouble of fitting bigger diffs and run the std tyres all the modded rovers ive seen with GQ/80 diffs have had 35x12.5x15's or bigger on offset rims and needed 3in of flare per side

[rover_owner]

Hey Chris,
As I said in my last post I intend to run 33's for the road and 35's for fun and when you say standard, I take it you mean standard Patrol or Toyota sizes as the Range Rover only has a 29" tyre.
If you use the gq or 80 series diffs you don't need a bigger offset just 8" rims, then you can cut the guards back and use LRA flares (around 2"-2.5") if your going to use 12.5" wide tyres, but you can also get Simmex or Silverstones in 35"x10.5", and because the diff is wider it looks like the tyres are wider anyway.
But hey, I was only letting you guys know how easy the diff change was to do.
Everyone needs to look at what's involved in all the different mods that can be done, the costs and availability of spares etc, and make their own choice. Any way they choose has got to be better than the p!## poor standard items.
I too would love to be able to afford Maxi's but would also now worry about replacement parts (not sure if that's founded as don't know anyone who's broken them).
Just one other thing, the choice of after-market wheels (and some of the standard mags) that become available with the six stud pattern too!!!

[rover_owner]

Here's the piccies of the front flares and the clearance at the rear of the front guard.





The last pic is with the stadard diff, with 32" bfg's showing the clearance between the tyre and the guard.
zook4fun, looking at the rear 80 series diff, the bottom shock mounts will have to be replaced with the Rangie one's (not sure yet if you could just use Toyota shocks) the center ball joint bracket will have to be mounted on, and again, I will have to check the spring mount positions. Apparently you use the Rangie radius arms, but you have to weld a thick type of washer over the 80's bolt hole to reduce it, and use the Range Rover bolt.
One other thing on the front, the diff flange has to be re-drilled to accept the Range Rover drive shaft or have a new one made up using the Rangie to transfer flange one end, and the Patrol to diff flange at the other end.

[zook4fun]

Here's the piccies of the front flares and the clearance at the rear of the front guard.





The last pic is with the stadard diff, with 32" bfg's showing the clearance between the tyre and the guard.
zook4fun, looking at the rear 80 series diff, the bottom shock mounts will have to be replaced with the Rangie one's (not sure yet if you could just use Toyota shocks) the center ball joint bracket will have to be mounted on, and again, I will have to check the spring mount positions. Apparently you use the Rangie radius arms, but you have to weld a thick type of washer over the 80's bolt hole to reduce it, and use the Range Rover bolt.
One other thing on the front, the diff flange has to be re-drilled to accept the Range Rover drive shaft or have a new one made up using the Rangie to transfer flange one end, and the Patrol to diff flange at the other end.

thanks for the info, this was a big help as i was stressing about breaking my diffs if i put locker in them.

[Bush65]

thanks for the info, this was a big help as i was stressing about breaking my diffs if i put locker in them.

I would stress more about breaking diffs if I didn't have a locker.

A locker is one of the best ways to fix the weakest part (2 pinion diff) of the rover drive train.

[lokka]

Yep ya right there john the arb center was the best thing i did to the rear axle in the rangie and driving it like a fairy in unlocked mode i havent had a drama since tho if twisted a few rear axles tho i have plenty of spares LOL