91 pajero gls rear locker?

[mitch_mac]

hey all

i have just found myself a gls pajero 91 model

pretty hard to find as ive heard from people

it has a rear locker and tells me how to engage it on a sticker on the side of the centre console and has lines running into the diff but it isnt working

ive been told also that it is air and electronical locked the compressoe is under the rear seat? can anyone shed any light on this for me and tell me how to fix it or what to look for not many people seem to no about it and im not sure as it is my first 4wd

cheers mitch

[smccask]

What 4wd mode were you in, you need to have the transfer in 4WDc, it is an electrical interlock.

[-Scott-]

What 4wd mode were you in, you need to have the transfer in 4WDc, it is an electrical interlock.

wot he sed.

I recently met another Paj owner whose rear diff lock wasn't working, which we blamed on "flashing light syndrome".

As smccask pointed out, the transfer has to be in one of the Lc modes before the diff will lock. If the transfer switches aren't working properly (causing flashing lights) then the diff probably* won't lock.

Cure any flashing lights, then try your diff lock again.

* For me, it's only a theory - if anybody has experienced different, please let us all know.

[smccask]

the only things it detects is that the centre diff lock is engaged and the vehicle speed is low (i think below 40kph) which the diff lock control unit detects from a reed switch in the dash.

[NJV6]

Need to be going below about 8km or something, I know idling in low 2nd is about the right speed to get it to go in nicely.

Listen for the pump when you are in low box and stopped and activate the locker. If the key is in the on position with the engine off and the gearbox is in the 4LLc position and you press the switch you should clearly hear the pump.

[mitch_mac]

thanks guys

yeh im in LLC with the centre diff lock working

then i press the button doing well under 10ks i normally only get stuck up on big climbs when i lift my wheel so im not going fast and normaly go back and have another crack with it on

i also have the car in low in the auto aswell

it worked once then never worked again

if there is a problem with it not working what should i check? like wireing ect?

cheers mitch

[NJV6]

Listen for the pump.

And make sure you are stopped when you do it.

[mitch_mac]

alright sweet as i gota little track near home that tests it about so ill duck out and give it a spin and see how i go

cheers mitch

[mitch_mac]

hey guys took the paj out to try and get this diff locker to work it still didnt happen for me i tryed it sevral times while i was stopped still got nothing

do they work off vaccume aswell?

maybe my vaccume is cactus?

i couldnt here it start up eather

cheers mitch

[Ian Sharpe]

mate, if you cant hear the pump running, then I would suggest that you by pass the ECU & get 12v to the pump from another source, the pump is in the little compartment under the rear seat behind the driver.

If it works then , I would just wire up some sort of switch to activate it becuase replacing anything with Mitsu is costly, eg the diff lock switch on your dash is over $100.

If the pump doesnt work after being powered from another source then that is your problem , god knows how much a new one would be & I doubt that you would find one at a wreckers, they are not common.

cheers & good luck

[mitch_mac]

not a bad idea at all sounds good to me

ill find the pump and give it a good clean and see what the problem counld be

could you run a different pump? if this one is cactus

cheers mitch

[jonnyjtop]

same thing happend to me i just bpassed the whole lot and ran a new switch now its all working sweet...as ian sugested check if it works properly first then if it does use another switch if the compressor is stuffed id say you can run another one just have to make sure it runs the right pressure or you will risk stuffing the locking mechanisim in the diff...

[Ian Sharpe]

not a bad idea at all sounds good to me

ill find the pump and give it a good clean and see what the problem counld be

could you run a different pump? if this one is cactus

cheers mitch

You would have to find a very low pressure pump, I think its about 6psi

not very much at all, I'm sure that there would be something available , you just have to find it!

[mitch_mac]

thanks guys

ill let you no how i go i have to work my day off this week so there goes my chance to look at it maybe if i get a chance thisarvo

cheers mitch

[mitch_mac]

alright found the pump took it out hooked it up to a 12 volt battery works like a treat

so now im putting in a new switch for it and leads to it see if it works if not ill need to run new leads to the diff

and yes it is very tiny i recon i could blow harder than it haha

cheers mitch

[Ian Sharpe]

alright found the pump took it out hooked it up to a 12 volt battery works like a treat

so now im putting in a new switch for it and leads to it see if it works if not ill need to run new leads to the diff

and yes it is very tiny i recon i could blow harder than it haha

cheers mitch

excellent news, if you do that then please dont forget that the locker will be able to be activated in any mode. You must put the switch in a spot that it cant be accidently knocked on.

Or do as I did with my ARB setup, actually have 2 switches that have to be on in order for the locker to work, I know its a bit of a pain, but if you stuff the locker up its going to cost big bucks to fix, & BTW whislt the Mitsu 3.5 diff & axles is strong as, the locking mechanism is really a weak point, its very easy to break teeth off the locking mechanism, NJ in NZ has done this & I have at least 3 teeth missing on mine (but it still works) . The ARB locking mechanism is much stronger.

good luck

[-Scott-]

alright found the pump took it out hooked it up to a 12 volt battery works like a treat

so now im putting in a new switch for it and leads to it see if it works if not ill need to run new leads to the diff

and yes it is very tiny i recon i could blow harder than it haha

cheers mitch

excellent news, if you do that then please dont forget that the locker will be able to be activated in any mode. You must put the switch in a spot that it cant be accidently knocked on.

Or do as I did with my ARB setup, actually have 2 switches that have to be on in order for the locker to work, I know its a bit of a pain, but if you stuff the locker up its going to cost big bucks to fix, & BTW whislt the Mitsu 3.5 diff & axles is strong as, the locking mechanism is really a weak point, its very easy to break teeth off the locking mechanism, NJ in NZ has done this & I have at least 3 teeth missing on mine (but it still works) . The ARB locking mechanism is much stronger.

good luck

Working on the principle that you can never be too careful, I installed an extra relay in the wiring for my front diff lock, so the diff lock can only activate if the front axle is disconnect switch is closed, which indicates I'm in 4wd.

So far, so good.

[Ian Sharpe]

alright found the pump took it out hooked it up to a 12 volt battery works like a treat

so now im putting in a new switch for it and leads to it see if it works if not ill need to run new leads to the diff

and yes it is very tiny i recon i could blow harder than it haha

cheers mitch

excellent news, if you do that then please dont forget that the locker will be able to be activated in any mode. You must put the switch in a spot that it cant be accidently knocked on.

Or do as I did with my ARB setup, actually have 2 switches that have to be on in order for the locker to work, I know its a bit of a pain, but if you stuff the locker up its going to cost big bucks to fix, & BTW whislt the Mitsu 3.5 diff & axles is strong as, the locking mechanism is really a weak point, its very easy to break teeth off the locking mechanism, NJ in NZ has done this & I have at least 3 teeth missing on mine (but it still works) . The ARB locking mechanism is much stronger.

good luck

Working on the principle that you can never be too careful, I installed an extra relay in the wiring for my front diff lock, so the diff lock can only activate if the front axle is disconnect switch is closed, which indicates I'm in 4wd.

So far, so good.

Scott,

excellent idea, I was going to do sort of thing , picking up an active from the green lights on the dash, however someone posted that they tried this & it didnt work, something like the green lights didnt have enough current to switch the coil in a rely, so I didnt do it in the end.

What active did you pick up?? to operate your relay??

[NJV6]

I just wired my front so the switch wouldn't work unless the compressor was on...

And with the racket ARB compressorsmake I know when it is on

[mitch_mac]

thanks guys

didnt get much done on it today i decided to take a grinder to my front bar instead and fit my 240 lightforces with a hid upgrade i havent connected them up yet but they look awsome

should be getting my 2inch lift in in the next couple of days might tuck into the locker one night if the garage is free

my old man is an electrinsion so im sure he will figure me something out

ill post some pics when i get some time hopefuly of the locker in full swing at beerwah on sunday if its going by then

cheers mitch

[-Scott-]

Working on the principle that you can never be too careful, I installed an extra relay in the wiring for my front diff lock, so the diff lock can only activate if the front axle is disconnect switch is closed, which indicates I'm in 4wd.

So far, so good.

Scott,

excellent idea, I was going to do sort of thing , picking up an active from the green lights on the dash, however someone posted that they tried this & it didnt work, something like the green lights didnt have enough current to switch the coil in a rely, so I didnt do it in the end.

What active did you pick up?? to operate your relay??

It's a few years ago now, but I probably picked up the active from either the compressor feed or the feed to the front locker solenoid. I drew a diagram for somebody else - if I dig for long enough I could probably find it again.

Initially, the dash lights flashed really fast. I think the ECU was sensing extra load on its input, but a simple blocking diode fixed that - the extra relay goes to ground through the diode and then the front axle switch.